47-55.1 Steering shaft clearance question

[crushermechanic]

Is 1/2" clearance enough between the headers and steering shaft? I plan on wrapping the headers to keep some of the heat down. I can't find any other way to get more clearance. I have 4 u joints 1 a double and 3 heim bearings.

[jweb]

That's closer than I would want. I had to use 70's truck exhaust manifolds when I had a 350. They fit tight and exit further toward the rear like these:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-class...2047&year=1977

A rear exit header might work too:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...iABEgJmgPD_BwE


I only had 2 joints with the exhaust manifolds

[jweb]

This is the exact manifold I had. You can see it goes in really tight to the block, especially just ahead of the exhaust flange.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392398470450

[_Ogre]

I'd try another header or manifold before using 4 steering knuckles. Way to many points of failure in your setup. Plus the heat will cook the grease out. You need to step back and look at the overall design of your truck; steering and brakes should be top priority, not an afterthought. If cast iron manifolds eliminate 2 knuckles and both bearings at the cost of 2% of your power, use the manifolds.
You are designing a vehicle that I wouldn't want on the same roads I use. My 58 TRUK uses 2 steering knuckles, I can remove all the set screws and nothing happens. I have to remove the 4 column bolts before a failure will occur.

[mr48chev]

Oh please no ugly rat rod wrap on those headers that will cause them to deteroriate years faster than they would otherwise.

The only issue is that the lube in the joints and support bearings might break down a tad faster but if they can be greased grease them far more often.

I'm sorry but to me one of the most hidious things a guy can stick on his ride is that wrap on headers that is usually more of a rat rod gotta have thing than functional.

[dsraven]

I would rethink the whole process possibly with a different set of headers or a custom built set. like someone else said, thats a lot of built in failure spots. its also a reason why the steering may turn out to be kinda not smooth, I mean, u joints work to change the angle of a shaft but they also speed up and slow down 4 times for each rev of the shaft. with that many joints the wheel may not turn the shaft equally smooth.
if you use the system as you have it laid out on the floor, note you have one u joint out of phase. its the last one in the pic on the right hand side. that will cause an issue unless you get it in phase with the other end of the shaft it is attached to
for u joint info with a demo check out you tubes
driveshaft angle and phasing by macs motor city garage
this one shows you what I mean about u joints changing the velocity of the shaft and also how phasing works

[my56chevytruck]

already, some have said to rethink your exhaust manifolds to those that fit tighter to the engine. Bling isn't the most important factor when it comes to safety; ie steering and braking. Order the tighter fitting exhaust manifolds and then lay out your steering using the least amount of joints. Best of luck

[crushermechanic]

The headers I have are the tightest fit available. The steering I smooth. It's just a lot of engine in a small area. The pic on the floor is just stuck together for a picture

[leegreen]

I'd do what you can to keep the heat off the joints & ventilate that area. Cooking the grease out seems quite likely. If the joints start binding from lack of grease the setup will want to twist and steering effort will go up.
Nothing looks greaseable and a lot of safety critical fasteners are going to be heat cycled. I'd keep a close eye on it, your setup would not leave me feeling comfortable.

You may be pushing the 30 degree angle limit most joints like that are rated for?

Can you raise that big mopar up a inch or two or offset to the other side a bit?
I'd rather deal with driveshaft ujoints wearing prematurely than the steering complexity and heat risks.

Does the manufacturer of the joints publish a heat rating? Adding a thermocouple and gauge for the first few drives might give you a better idea where you are at.

[dsraven]

pk, post 1. assembled unit. the first shaft below the firewall has the shafts assembled out of phase. to be in phase the yokes on both ends of the shaft need to be inline with each other those are not.
heat shielding may be your friend. dunno about the header wrap and how it shields heat. different suppliers may have different ratings.

[dsraven]

itb would be easy to build a small shield to bolt on with the heim joints that would help keep the heat off those parts.
up to you. your truck.

[dsraven]

maybe most of us are thinking it but not saying it. ok, lets rip the bandaid off.
its your truck, you do with it what you will. but, you asked the question.
most builder guys would install a rear exit header and leave more room for important stuff like steering shafts. the setup is pretty but not practical.
there you go fellas. cuss me out if you want to.

[crushermechanic]

All components are stainless. I have not thought of a heat shield. I will look at it. I don't have room to move the engine anymore. I will have to go back and look at the phase of the joints. There aren't many options for tight fit exhaust. I appreciate the advice

[dsraven]

yup, the upper shaft needs one yoke to be turned 1/4 turn so they line up correctly parallel. you may need to drill and tap a new hole if the yoke isn't already.
I don't see a fix other than a different set of headers that move the collector more to the rear so all the pipes aren't bunched up into that one spot you need for the shafting. or possibly a long tube set that naturally allows the pipes to hug the block better. otherwise you could fab a set of headers i suppose. that would look cool as well but that can be time consuming.

[dsraven]

not a dodge guy, really, but what engine are you running there?

[crushermechanic]

It's a 440 bored 30 over. The headers are big tubes and it needs them. It's a 10-1 motor pushing 500 + hp. It was originally for another project that didn't happen and this one fell in my lap. I couldn't stand to not use it.

[leegreen]

Maybe try a heat shield with one of those high tech aluminum/insulation pads. Or the type of blanket they wrap turbos in. Or space shuttle tiles....

Find out what the heat range for the ujoints is - it must be up there as they are intended for under hood next to engine.
Themocouple and gauge for the first few drives

You could also do something with the inner fenders so most of the steering is outside the engine bay, or even integrate the heat shield and inner fender so all of the column is in a separate air space than engine

[dsraven]

500 hp, that should get it moving.

[crushermechanic]

It should be fun. I looked at the phase of the joints and there is no way to change it. The double joint is what is causing it to be out of phase.

[mr48chev]

I didn't notice the Mopar engine last night for some reason,

That may be a bad case of can't get there from here as far as steering goes.
I

If you haven't changed it from the way it sits on the floor that is pretty well as close to in phase as you can get the whole length.

Still outside of a horrible expense to do it the best thing would be to fnd a set of headers that fit and had better clearance.

[72Mountaineer]

I'd check into some E-steering.