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Old 11-02-2010, 12:24 PM   #1
elzombo
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Wiper and Current Status

Well here's a close up of the wiper arm base and here's where I'm at currently. I know it's not much but for someone who's never done anything like this before and who is basically learning as he goes...I think I could be doing a whole lot worse.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:27 PM   #2
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Re: Z's 1972 K5 CST Blazer Rebuild

The current 350. Will be coming out hopefully very soon.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:21 PM   #3
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Current Progress

So I was able to do a little today (despite the wiper set back...still hoping to get some advice on how to deal with those mofos).

Took off the front fenders and was VERY happy to see they are in excellent shape inside as well as out. Also took off the inner fenders and although I knew they weren't in the best shape, they are worse off than I thought. I was wondering, should I just go ahead and replace them now or just leave them and if and when the time comes, replace them?

You can see how they're already pretty rough and the PO welded what appears to be some sort of brace/bracket to ensure the fender didn't eventually just fall off into the tire while the vehicle was driving. Don't want that to happen to me...You can see in the pics that part of the fender is just toast.
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Last edited by elzombo; 11-02-2010 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:36 PM   #4
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What the heck is this?

As I was removing the inner fenders, I noticed the driver's side fender has this cylinder bolted to it. I figured it was some sort of reservoir but had no idea for what. It sounds empty and it has two hoses coming out of it. One hose went into the brake booster and the other hose goes to a T and goes into each of the valve covers. Just wondering what the heck this is.

Also, the PO had tried to put in some speakers in the kick panel...well to do this he cut out holes and now I've got to patch them up. Anyone in the Austin area want to help teach me how to weld? I'm sure that for some this is a kindergarten project but for a guy who's never welded before.....

On a brighter note, got the dash cluster out, looks to be in pretty good shape, just needs a little cleaning up. The dash as a whole looks solid, no rust or wear. The only pain is the cut out where there was a stereo. Wanted to go for a more stock radio look, but looks like I'll have to stick with an updated stereo. Could be worse
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:45 PM   #5
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Steering Gear

Although I'm not building this to be a daily driver or show truck, I do want to be able to hit the road for long trips and not worry about things, such as the steering. Does anyone have any suggestions as far as an old steering gear? The one in the blazer now is rusty and the last time I drove her (about 3 years ago) the steering didn't feel too bad. But like most other things in this rebuild, I'm hoping that my skill level and budget will allow me to "might as well rebuild/replace now" before it is a problem.

Are steering gears normally something that should be replaced (or rebuilt)? How would I know if it needed to be? Would it be extremely difficult to attempt a "maintenance" myself?
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:07 PM   #6
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Re: Z's 1972 K5 CST Blazer Rebuild

Looks like a good start to me, now on to your questions....

Inner fenders: My opinion is to replace them if that is in the budget, you could also look into having someone repair them or find some better stock examples.

That vacuum canister is scary, I dont even see how you have power brakes. The brake booster line should be connected to the base of the carb itself (back side) or the intake manifold between the carb and dizzy. The PCV valve (the part in your valve cover) should be hooked up to the front of the carb to pull vacuum on the crankcase. (I think!)


Edit: I just noticed you have a Demon (?) carb, I have no idea if that is the same vacuum line configuration as the Edelbrocks I am used too, hopefully someone else will chime in.


The steering boxes can be rebuilt, but most people opt to get a replacement box (either at the parts store or a supplier like Early Classic Enterprises (ECE)) I have never rebuilt one, but wouldnt truct myself to do it correctly on a safety item such as steering. Just my .02!

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:17 PM   #7
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Vaccum Canister

You are correct, sir, it's a demon carb.

The fenders, my plan is to look around junk yards, perhaps find some in decent shape.

The steering box, how would I know if I actually needed it to be replaced though?

And THANK YOU for any and all advice. I've NEVER worked on vehicles or anything. This is definitely all new to me. Just trying to learn as I go.
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:32 PM   #8
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Re: Wiper and Current Status

Quote:
Originally Posted by elzombo View Post
Well here's a close up of the wiper arm base and here's where I'm at currently. I know it's not much but for someone who's never done anything like this before and who is basically learning as he goes...I think I could be doing a whole lot worse.
My wiper arms were pretty stuck also. I used a small peice of scrap,
To lay up next to the shaft, And a small flat bar(pry bar) to pull it loose.
Hope this helps.

Spike
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:35 PM   #9
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Re: Z's 1972 K5 CST Blazer Rebuild

Cool Blazer!

The steering gear boxes will usually whine, leak, and not work very well when the vehicle is at a stop when they are starting to go out. If yours was doing any of that than I would definately get a new one while the front fenders are off. You can get a new power steering box at AutoZone or O' Reillys for $100-150.

I would definately get new inner fenders. Some people run without them, but in my opinion doing so is asking for trouble. You shouldn't have much trouble finding a drivers side fender, but the passenger side inner fenders are much harder to find used. That is because they sit under the battery and the acid eventually leaks onto the fenders causing them to rot. If you can't find a used one you can get a reproduction fender for $85-125.

The only way I am able to get the windshield wipers off is to pry that tab back with a screw driver; then I push the screw driver up on the wiper arm while the bottom of the screw driver is against the cowl (WARINING: This will chip the paint) and it usually slides up.


Good luck with everything! I am looking forward to seeing more progress.
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