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Old 10-31-2021, 12:57 PM   #1
Ziegelsteinfaust
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4L60E durability.

The Good Lord has smiled down upon the country western song that is my life. My Dad is at a swap meet in Apple Valley, and found a Camaro SS LT1 engine with 97K miles. Complete tip to tail. He says it sounds like it is making good compression. Going to go look at it Friday which is my next day off when the guy is free.

It has what was told to me a 4L60E. So it leaves open the possibility of computer trans control which I would like. Alot. I do know there is a 4L60 which still has the TV cable, and would be sold to recoup money. If it does have that trans.

How strong is the 4L60E with Corvette servos, and a looser converter. Probably 2500rpm stall which I like alot in my truck already. Plus it matches my insane set up pretty well.

If it works well. I may do it up better, and skip the 4L80 I dream of.
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Old 10-31-2021, 04:54 PM   #2
Rickysnickers
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Re: 4L60E durability.

Our resident transmission expert is Clinebarger. Hopefully, he will see it and chime in. My limited understanding is that it's an electronic version of the 700r4.
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Old 10-31-2021, 04:58 PM   #3
AussieinNC
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Re: 4L60E durability.

There are many threads on the forum detailing 4L60E capabilities and performance build ups....

Just open a search from, type in 4L60E and make sure you choose the forum not google....

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Old 10-31-2021, 05:14 PM   #4
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Re: 4L60E durability.

I've used the 4L60E on a number of LS swaps. My 98 Wrangler LS6/4L60E combo has almost 14 years under it's belt with zero issues. Stock LS6/4L60E.
My 67 Nova project 427 cube LS2 (500 rwhp) had a "built" 4L60E from Finish Line Transmissions. 2800 stall billet converter from Yank. Worked great and I sold it a number of years ago but talked to the owner a month or two ago and it's still going strong.
My current 80 Fbody project has a locally built L92/4L60E/2800 stall Yank converter. I don't think it will be a problem. Run a big trans cooler. Don't let the tuner take out all the torque management out of the tune. My .02 if you aren't going to put monster power to the 4L60E and it's built right you will be fine.
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Old 10-31-2021, 08:28 PM   #5
Ziegelsteinfaust
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Re: 4L60E durability.

I will only get 425hp at the most. So monster power for 1972 maybe.

My TH700 has been doing fine, and doesn't get hot driving. So I just want a electronic version for better dialing it in.

Right now I am hoping it is a 4L60E, and the engine has good compression. I am planning a cam swap to take better advantage of the heads, but also lower my DCR so I can run straight 91.
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Old 10-31-2021, 09:28 PM   #6
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Re: 4L60E durability.

Sorry I didn't read your post close enough. I missed LT1. The 4L60E behind the LT1 is not compatible with a LS engine if you decide to go that route. As I understand the LT1 4L60E input shaft will not work on a LS engine. It's too long. But if you decide to go LT1/4L60E with the right mods it should run well. We had a 94 Z28 and it was a great car. I think the only down side to the LT1 is the front distributor as it runs thru the water pump. Seals can fail and coolant kills the distributor. Our 94 never missed a beat.
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:14 PM   #7
Ziegelsteinfaust
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Re: 4L60E durability.

I should be getting a 1994 Camaro LT1 which is claimed to have the 4L60E Friday. My engine is starting burning a good bit of oil plus a rear main seal leak. So for what I call my sanity I decided to go with a more permanent safe way out of my issues.

My truck already has a LT1 stroked to 383 so it will be a bolt in affair, and start re-tuning the carb again. I have the LT1 running a carb, and distributor. So no opti-spark to deal with. While not bad a few detail things were not well thought out for durability, or ease of replacement.

As much as I want the LS based truck motor. I do not have the time to venture out of my comfort zone. In case something goes wrong. I have the skills, and parts to correct sbc issues. Plus I have a good bit money committed to future things I have to do or just pay for.

I am not going to cheap up the swap, but I will not go crazy either. It will get new oil pan, and valve cover gaskets. Plus a new rear main seal. The only polishing of the turd parts will be a new cam/roller, and valve train combo.

1. So I can reduce my dynamic compression ratio to help with the 10.5-1 mechanical compression ratio. So california 91 octane will work fine for me.

2. Well if I have to spend money. I might as well optimize my package the best I can. So high quality rollers, upgraded rocker studs, roller rockers, and a girdle.

I am not sure where LT1 factory rollers rate in the big scheme of things, but I will research that tomorrow. At lunch or break time.

BTW it is oil or condensate that killed the optispark usually. The water pump drive seal is hard to install, and holds to much oil. Drilling a 1/8 hole keeps it from leaking. The seal on the shaft of the distributor is a another.

Other then that I developed a love for them in 1998 when I got my first LT4 from a dyno test shop. They work great if you learn there eccentricities, but like Richard Holdner says they are a forgotten warrior.
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