47-55.1 I’m full of questions.. do you have any answers?

[smoknbarrels]

Ok, so I normally build 60’s and up trucks and cars, I know a bit about them, their drivetrains and body work..
But I’ve decided I want to do a restomod on a 47-54 pickup (SBC 450hp, 700r4, static or bagged drop), but these trucks are small!. Now I’m out shopping for the project..
I see them in all sorts of conditions, some with crazy crossmembers or frames..
So my questions:

I found one that has an S-10 frame... does the stock S-10 frame lower the truck at all? Can I notch the crossmember or anything to get it lower? Is this S-10 frame truck even worth my while? Or just look for a stock frame and install a portbuilt front/rear and presto!

I also found one that has a 1986 full size pickup cross member installed.. how could that possibly fit? Wouldn’t it or the A-arms be way too wide? Of course there are no wheels installed..

Is there a frame difference between 1/2t and 3/4t on theses trucks?

What is everyone doing for cooling? The rad area looks tiny! Or is there a kit to relocate behind the grill or something?

Any cool must have upgrades I should know about? Things I want for sure: Dakota digital dash, American autowire, vintage air..

What’s the widest and biggest diameter tires I can logically go on these trucks?

I will keep searching the forum, but somehow I suck at it.

[mr48chev]

It all depends on how they mounted the body on the S-10 frame.

Most guys who use the S-10 do so because they think it is cheaper or easier than doing a stock frame right.
Many do it because all the work to bag and S-10 has been done before and you just order a kit to bag and S-10 and don't have to think very far out of the box.

The thing I have seen locally with any kind of frame swaps that are partially done is that a good percentage of them are cobbled up messes and that is why the guy quit. As far as S-10 swaps go, read what Joedoe says to do and what he says to look for. He is the resident expert that I trust to give the right answers.

[MiraclePieCo]

No frame will ever fit your truck better than the one that was designed for it from the factory: no body stalks, no wheel spacers, no floor-cutting, no jury-rigged running board or bumper brackets required. Check youngrodder's "Family Truckster" build thread in this forum for his Porterbuilt frame mods - state of the art!

The stock radiator has huge coolant capacity. Keep the original upper and lower front air deflectors intact and you'll have no cooling problems.

I run 8-inch wheels with 10-inch wide tires under the rear with about a half-inch width to spare inside and out. If you go much wider you can always mini-tub the wheel wells.

The 1/2-ton and 1-ton frames are very different width at the rear, but I'm not familiar with the 3/4-ton.

Regarding "cool upgrades": One must always decide if he wants the character and charm of an old truck, or wants a Lexus that just looks like an old truck.

[joedoh]

if you want to bag it dont use a MII, the upper arm/lower arm length difference is such that you will have large camber change with only a little change in ride height. i have dealt with this not on MII suspensions but their derivatives, on bagged rangers with a similar length disparity the right method is to raise the upper control arm mounts for more adjustability in lower ride heights.
scotts or heidts or art morrison will have a better front suspension option with better geometry for bags, and frequently a bag kit option.

1/2 and 3/4 ton frames are similar but differ enough that you will need to order the right front suspension for the frame you have. 47 through 53, the 3/4 ton was longer wheelbase so if you want a shortbed 47-55 stick to a 1/2 ton. 54-55 you could get a longbed 1/2 ton so its not exactly a perfect statement but I think I have explained it.

post pictures of your s10 swapped truck under consideration. if you are logged in you can see a few (heh) of the ones I have done by clicking my name then viewing my albums. if there is a way to do it wrong I have tried it and if there is a problem I have had it, but I always fix it right, life is too short to die stupid. if you post a picture, I can probably eyeball it and tell you if it can be lowered. I usually set the bottom of the running boards even with the bottom of the frame and then with a 3/3 drop it looks like an earthworm crawling around with great ground clearance and suspension travel.

for radiators, I have taken to widening the inner fenders at the core support and using a stock GM 26x15 core rad, its crossflow (so the rad width is more than 25, like almost 30) which I like a little more than top tanks. you can get it in a double or triple pass in this size, that would cool even a thirsty big block. I usually use a 4.3V6 for motivation but a V8 would still fit easily with this size rad, electric fan would be a must though.

I dont care how you build your truck, but if you ask a question and I know the answer I will help!

[PDW HOTRODS]

1/2 ton and 3/4 ton frames are different. 3/4 ton frame is much narrower under the bed. That will affect rear bumper + brackets and bed cross bars. Any frame other than stock will require fab work for lots of other things. The snow ball. Chang 1 thing then you need to change 3 more. Front frame swaps or full frame swap then core support needs mod, then radiator won't fit, make front bumper mounts, cut up inner fenders... Stock frame with M2 kit is best option for most people if you don't want straight axle. Vintage air is great but the kit is made for stock size radiator in stock position, anything else you make it fit. The aftermarket aluminum radiators work great and bolt in, but if your engine is built for a lot more power and you add AC you may have cooling problems. Every change you make you need to thing ahead to see what else may need changed.

[smoknbarrels]

Some really good info here, thanks guys! Also reinforces some of my thoughts on using an s-10 frame..
So other than portbuilt, what are guys using for affordable coil overs or bag setups in the front?
For the rear, I was thinking a 4 link with a watts connected to a Ford 9 or something similar..
There’s always the trade off of trying to keep things simple vs awesomeness..

[HO455]

This is a photo of my lowered S10. Two inch drop spindles & two inch drop springs with stock control arms. This combination only has about 1 1/2" of suspension travel before hitting the bump stops. I used Belltech components which have performed excellently. There has been very little spring droop since installation.
I have put over 100k miles on the truck since installed and there some short comings to be mentioned. Speed bumps and such have to be crossed below 10 mph to prevent bottoming out hard. Bump stops and idler arms only last about 20k to 25k miles. Pitman arms about 35k. Bump steer isn't horrible but, it is noticeable. If I was too drop another S10 I would look harder at aftermarket control arms in hope of gaining more suspension travel. With more travel there would be less harshness in the ride, bump stops would last longer and possibly the steering links would last longer but, that is only conjecture on my part as to why they are failing in the first place.

I hope this may help with your decision.

[mr48chev]

One thing to think about is that frame swap trucks are normally viewed as "cheap" trucks by potential buyers when it comes time to sell them and even the guy in Florida who turns out a lot of post 88 chevy truck framed AD trucks seldom gets over 25K for a fresh truck with new paint and upholstery. They are great driving trucks but I would not suggest spending a lot of money on high end parts on one.

The "cheap" on S-10 swaps isn't there anymore in most cases. When the fad started guys could drive around town and find a long bed work truck with a blown up 4 banger sitting in someone's yard and if they didn't get it for free for hauling it off it might cost 100 or 200 bucks. Now guys are spending as much as 3 K to get a running and driving donor truck and then another 1500+ for a swap kit and then adding tube A arms and a 4 link and swapping to a wider rear axle. When they are done, they still have a "cheap" truck no matter how nice it is or how much money they have in it or even as one of member's trucks, how many times it was shown in event coverage on magazines and on the net. Think about it, you have never seen those foreign accent talking heads on the Barrett-Jackson auction shows gushing about the wonderful S-10 frame under and AD truck on Saturday night coverage.

That meaning that a frame swap depends a lot of what you really want with the truck. Great when you don't have a good stock frame. Great when you just want a driver quality truck that you can find parts and pieces for the chassis at any Autozone. Maybe not the greatest if you are planning a high-end show rig.

[joedoh]

the guys who buy my trucks arent looking for something to need a dedicated space in the garage. they buy the because they can leave them unlocked in the parking lot and its still there when they get back, they can haul a load of mulch in air conditioned comfort or a load of pavers and drive home on the highway at 75. their wives can drive them without chewing their nails about scratches or door dings or needing a list of instructions on how to start them. their kids can drive them to school. they can leave them outside in the rain and snow and it only adds to the character of the original paint. they drive like a modern truck because they are.

I think the guys chasing the restomod dollars on barrett jackson have a place, and their buyers have unlimited garage spots for toys. but there is another group of people who want to buy something that will do a dedicated 12k miles a year full time, without needing to order special replacement parts, everything is on the shelf at the local parts house.

not everyone wants to sit on a truck for 10 (or more) years to chase barrett dollars. and while they are building and worrying about chips and scratches, I am cruising a new truck to the hangouts twice a year.

build what you like! no one will build it for you. dont judge my actions with your intentions though...

[mick53]

In today's world the possibilities are almost endless. I'm am by no means an expert. Is there something special about an S10 frame? It's a light weight truck isn't it? I'm boxing and bracing the stock frame on my 53 3100. I went with Dakota HDX. It's a nice modular system. I have a Frankland quick change rear end with a Bicknel torque arm so I got the GPS speedo for convivence. I have a possible 128 gear ratios. I also went with electric P/S and an electric A/C compressor with Old Air inside kit. I wanted to keep the engine compartment clean and it's just easier. No need to clutter up the little 1000hp 292. I also got the cruise module and took turn signals and wheel off a 56 for the column. Sorry so long. Thank you for your time.