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Old 04-08-2021, 06:01 PM   #1
03BlkZ
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MC2203 Camshaft

Does anyone here use the MC2203 camshaft in their 350? I had my engine rebuilt a while back for my restoration and I am planning maybe fire the engine off this weekend for the first time. I was wondering what the break in procedure is for this specific cam. Also what should I expect out of lope. I know it's pretty mild. Here are the specs.
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:20 PM   #2
GASoline71
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Pretty mildish cam. Might hear a little at idle. Hydraulic flat tappet needs to broken in with "break in" lubrication added in the engine oil and run at approximately 2,500 RPM's for about 20 minutes. Different cam manufactures specify different RPM's and different timeframes.

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Old 04-08-2021, 08:16 PM   #3
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

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Originally Posted by GASoline71 View Post
Pretty mildish cam. Might hear a little at idle. Hydraulic flat tappet needs to broken in with "break in" lubrication added in the engine oil and run at approximately 2,500 RPM's for about 20 minutes. Different cam manufactures specify different RPM's and different timeframes.

Gary
I put Driven 30 weight break in oil in for the break in but wasn't sure at what RPM to use. My truck doesn't have a tach so hopefully I can get pretty close.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:24 PM   #4
70STOVEBOLT
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

I broke my cam in on SAE30 with a pint of STP oil treatment added. Fired it up and ran it between 1500 and 2500 varying the RPM for about 20 minutes. Drove the truck home after that, about 7 miles and drained the oil. Put SAE30 back in with a pint of STP oil treatment again. No issues. Now on the third oil change after about 500 miles and it has 10W30 with no additives and it is fine. My engine is a 402 with a Sealed Power (Speed-Pro) mild hydraulic cam and lifters and I used Perfect Circle (Mahle) plasma moly rings. I also used Mahle Cam Guard assembly lube.
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:12 PM   #5
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

I would talk to the machine shop that did the rebuild, and ask them for the right break-in oil and procedure.
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:43 AM   #6
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Also, I am using stock valve springs. If you are using a stiffer-than-stock spring, this could lead to problems with camshaft break-in.
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Old 04-09-2021, 10:41 AM   #7
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Run a good break-in oil that does not have friction modifiers and will allow proper ring seating and includes zinc for the flat tappet cam. https://www.amsoil.com/p/break-in-oil-sae-30--brk/

This is the break in procedure directly from Melling's website
https://www.melling.com/learning-cen...-81fc0061-8ee2
IMPORTANT CAMSHAFT BREAK IN INFORMATION
FOR FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFTS

When breaking in a flat tappet camshaft there are many things that need to be taken into consideration to prevent premature break in failure.

Current engine oils are less than adequate for flat tappet camshaft break in, engine oil manufacturers have decreased the amount of zinc in both gasoline, and diesel engine oils to meet emission standards, this decreased zinc content will not support proper flat tappet camshaft break in.

Engines using a flat tappet cam shaft will need to use and engine oil with a zinc content of at least 1250 parts per million. Some small batch oil manufacturers are producing high zinc content oils, there are also zinc additives available that can be added to conventional oils that will bring the zinc content to the proper levels.

During assembly a high grade assembly lube such as MELL-LUBE should be liberally applied to the cam lobes, lifter faces, and distributor gear.

High valve spring pressures during break in can also cause failures, when using a multi piece valve spring the inner spring should be removed during break in, there are also reduced ratio rocker arms on the market that are intended to be used during break in, these reduced ratio rocker arms reduce the amount of load applied to the cam lobes by not fully opening the valves.

Up to 10 times more wear material is created during the initial break in period, taking this into consideration during break in a finer micron oil filter should be used, typically around 21 microns, race type filters have a micron count around 61 which will flow more oil, but provide less filtration, race type filters should not be used during break in.

Camshaft and lifters should always be replaced as a set, you should never put used lifters on a new camshaft, or new lifters on a used camshaft.

RECOMMENDED CAMSHAFT BREAK IN PEOCEDURE

Prior to starting the engine for the first time the engine oiling system must be primed using either a pressure primer, or drill driven priming tool, the fuel system should also be primed, and the timing set, this will ensure a quick startup, and eliminate extended cranking which can wipe assembly lube from the lobes and lead to cam lobe failure.

Once the engine starts it should not be allowed to idle, making sure there is adequate oil pressure immediately bring the engine RPM’s to between 1800-2400 the engine should be kept in this RPM range for 20 minutes.
After the initial 20 minute break in period the oil and filter should be changed, and then changed again after 500 road miles, or the initial dyno session.
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Old 04-09-2021, 09:39 PM   #8
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

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Originally Posted by GASoline71 View Post
Pretty mildish cam.

Gary
Maybe not high performance, but it's a couple steps above stock, which would have been in the range of 195/202 degrees @ .050", and .390/.410" lift, depending on year. I hope the engine has around 9.5:1 compression.

I'd bite the bullet and use break-in oil like Driven BR30. From then on use a high-zinc oil like Valvoline 10W30 Racing in the silver jar. Also a good oil filter like WIX or Mobil 1.

Google "engine pre-lube" to learn how to get oil throughout the engine before attempting to start it.
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Old 04-21-2021, 12:23 PM   #9
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

I did the first start and break in last Friday. All seemed to go well. Only issue was a very minor fuel leak but everything else worked great. Also the cam sounds good for what I was looking for.
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Old 04-21-2021, 12:44 PM   #10
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Glad to hear it!
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Old 04-21-2021, 03:00 PM   #11
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Excellent outline of the cam requirements by MJN.
My only other recommendations would be sure to control the motor heat.
Motors tend to get plenty warm during a start up with out air flow and water flow.

In my experience overheating is the most common reason the motor can not be ran for the required 20 min.

1) Be absolutely sure the motor is completely full of water. Be sure to pull the upper hose and fill the block till water come out. This keeps the air pocket out of the motor.
2) Have a auxiliary fan handy.
3) Run the interior heater.

Last edited by Accelo; 04-22-2021 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 04-21-2021, 04:18 PM   #12
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

I just now read the entire thread, and see where I repeated a couple things mentioned before my post. For example, you had already decided to use Driven BR30. Guess I'd better start reading thru the responses before I add my two cents worth!

BTW way, Driven says the BR30 is good for one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street, so I wouldn't rush to change it right away.
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Old 04-21-2021, 06:12 PM   #13
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

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I just now read the entire thread, and see where I repeated a couple things mentioned before my post. For example, you had already decided to use Driven BR30. Guess I'd better start reading thru the responses before I add my two cents worth!

BTW way, Driven says the BR30 is good for one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street, so I wouldn't rush to change it right away.
O did drain the oil after the initial start/ 20 minute break in run. I am going to put fresh BR30 back in for 200 to 300 miles before changing to their conventional 30 weight oil.
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Old 04-21-2021, 07:55 PM   #14
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

SAE 30 wt Non-Detergent Oil, and use a liberal amount of red sticky break-in lube on the lobes.
As others are saying, run it for 20 minutes, with varying rpms, not going too crazy initially. Let it cool, and drain the oil. Fill it again with 30wt and run it under normal operating conditions for the first 100 miles. Drain and change the filter. Look at your drain plug and filter, because if there’s going to be a problem with shavings or debris, it would’ve happened by now. Next put 30 wt back in and run it the way you’re going to normally operate it, up to 500 miles. Drain it pull the filter and inspect again, looking for shavings and debris, and also tak3 note of the kcolor (it still should look fresh, but if it appears dark, then you could have a “Blow By” problem).
Next you can go to you regular oil and enjoy driving it, making sure you check the level every time you fuel up, and make a note of any changes in the levels.
This may sound like a little OCD, but this is what I did 20+ years ago when I rebuilt my engine, and haven’t had any issues.
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:23 AM   #15
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

Looking at the specs of your cam again.
It’s very close to the old 350hp/327 cam that was put in the L79 Corvettes and Chevy IIs (1965-66).
It was .447 int/.447 ext, with a 114 deg duration.
It’s a fun Street/Strip Cam, but not necessarily for a primary daily driver.
Years ago (like 40 ), I ran one of these in a Warmed up 350/4spd in my Nova.
On the street it was cool, because of the lopey idle sitting at stoplights.
At the track it ran well for a street legal car, turning consistent 11s.
Since then, there’s a lot of companies turning out a lot of new technologies and cam grinds, and I’m sure there are those out there that will tell you all about better cams.
If you have this one, run it and enjoy it. Old School
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Old 04-23-2021, 10:51 AM   #16
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Re: MC2203 Camshaft

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Originally Posted by 03BlkZ View Post
I did drain the oil after the initial start/ 20 minute break in run. I am going to put fresh BR30 back in for 200 to 300 miles before changing to their conventional 30 weight oil.
That was some expensive overkill there.

Also, I suggest you get in touch with Driven regarding your choice of straight 30 weight oil. IMO, all straight 30W will do is create more engine wear on cold startup and during warm-up compared to their HR2 10w-30 Conventional Hot Rod Oil. The exception would be if your journal-to-bearing clearances are on the high side of spec or greater.
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1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
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