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Old 08-25-2019, 03:49 PM   #76
MalibuSSwagon
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I purchased a local 2003 Silverado 2500HD crew cab a weeks ago. The not so rare New England crusty edition. I enjoyed your thread of fixes and additions to make it neater. Already installed a set of tricolor taillights I had lying around. I am wondering if you have pictures of the diff cover installed. I gotta change the oil, the stuff that came out when I did the rear brakes was a pretty nasty looking milkshake. I bought a Dorman cover with a fill plug but it appears to be for a 11.5 axle, which I don't think will fit. Not sure.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:42 PM   #77
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

The AAM 14 bolt axles came in three sizes 9.5" ring gear semi floating C-Clip axles, and 10.5" and 11.5" ring gear full floating bolt on axles.
The larger 11.5" cover will not fit the 10.5" axle even tho they are both full floating axles.

The 10.5" full floater is mostly the same animal as the old corporate GM full floating 14bolt in my 1976 K20 and 2000 GMC C2500 with a few differences like the 8mm metric cover bolts rather than the larger 3/8" bolts on the older axles.

I have a new Yukon YGA-32345 steel diff cover for the 10.5" axle in the garage that I bought for my 76 before I sold it but it doesn't have a fill plug welded in.

I'm not going to use the Yukon cover nor am I going to re-install the factory cover.
  1. The aluminum G2 cover isn't costing me fuel mileage.
  2. The aluminum G2 cover hasn't changed the diff temp appreciably either. I made a run to Providence to work on RIPTA equipment before and after. The G2 read the same temp as the steel cover on my IR thermometer so "running cooler" with this aluminum cover is IMHO complete BS. But it also doesn't seem to hurt anything.
  3. Both the steel covers would require work with the TIG to add fill plugs.

O2 sensors are 18mm x 1.5mm. You can get inexpensive 18mm magnetic fill plugs and weld in O2 sensor bungs.
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I don't have a picture of the G2 cover painted dark gray and installed. If I remember to take one I'll post it in this thread.
This is the ad copy picture.
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The G2 is drilled for 3/8" bolts and that's what it comes with. Once you buy the 8mm bolts from McMaster Carr, or wherever, the 8mm bolts will rattle around in the cover mounting holes like a BB in a boxcar.
The bolts you buy need to be longer than the original steel cover bolts without bottoming in the housing. I used 25mm long bolts.
I put copper sleeves as a shoulder around the 8mm bolts that I did indeed buy from McMaster Carr. You can see the chunks of soft 1/4" copper pipe cut shorter than the depth of the diff cover and split with the red razorblade knife in the picture.
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__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


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Last edited by hatzie; 08-25-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:40 AM   #78
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I just bought the G2 cover on Amazon. $102 with free one day is not terrible. I've also seen the Gale Banks video on aftermarket diff covers and didn't want to spend $250 on a diff cover that might actually be detrimental. It'll be nice to have the drain plug too for more frequent rear diff oil changes. Usually i'm a junkyard dog and just slap things together with what i can scrounge cheap or free, but I got a good deal on this truck and want to keep it for 10 or more years.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:53 AM   #79
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Quote:
Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon View Post
I just bought the G2 cover on Amazon. $102 with free one day is not terrible. I've also seen the Gale Banks video on aftermarket diff covers and didn't want to spend $250 on a diff cover that might actually be detrimental. It'll be nice to have the drain plug too for more frequent rear diff oil changes. Usually i'm a junkyard dog and just slap things together with what i can scrounge cheap or free, but I got a good deal on this truck and want to keep it for 10 or more years.
The drain plug is window dressing and it's not truly at the bottom of the diff. The fill plug is the important thing in this cover.

I have yet to find an AAM axle with a really stuck drain plug. Not impossible but it's in the oil unlike the fill plug.

This cover is aluminium alloy and we're in salt central. They use a lot of calcium chloride on the dirt roads in Hillsboro county in the summer.
Paint all the exposed aluminum.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 12-10-2019 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:42 AM   #80
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Whelp. The money light came on this AM.
P0449 Evaporative System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction.

The PCM monitors the voltage through the vent valve wiring loop from the fuse panel. Either the vent valve solenoid coil or the wiring to the vent valve is open.

I'll edit this post with what I find.

My test method will be to energize the vent valve using my Tech 2 with a Metripak 150 to 168 Peanut bulb test light inserted into the Vent Valve connector. My test lamp is a molded 168 peanut bulb socket pigtail that I crimped Metripak 150 terminals to the wire ends as a PCM solenoid driver safe test lamp. Real low tech.
If proper volts are coming from the PCM and the Metripak connector isn't full of green puss I'll change the valve out. Otherwise I get to fix the wiring.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 03-01-2020 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:30 PM   #81
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Well I just got under the truck to do the obligatory visual check and plug in the test lamp.

The Metripak150 connector for the vent valve is full of green and brown puss and one terminal on the vent valve is corroded off and stuck in the plug.
I cut the wires off even with the plastic shell hoping to just crimp new Metripak terminals and cavity seals on the ends of the wires and re-use the shell...
No such luck. I discovered the seal was nicked by someone not being careful when they installed a valve... it was leaking water and road crud into the connection for long enough to turn the terminals to a green slurry.

I kinda figured I might find this. I've seen this before.

I looked up the canister vent solenoid connector end view on Page 6-2428 of the 2005 GM Light Truck service manual and it calls for a Metripak 150 Delphi 12052643 shell.
The local auto parts guys don't have a pigtail so I ordered a 1205264 for $1.49 from Mouser along with some other electronics parts and automotive terminals I've been putting off ordering. It'll get here Wednesday or Thursday.

This is the EVAP Vent Valve circuit in all its' glory. The PCM closes the ground to the evap vent valve when it's commanding it closed and the other side of the circuit is hot at all times from the fuse panel.
Click on the image to open larger in another tab/window.
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If you do any automotive or motorsports electrical work you do not have to buy the crimp tools that crimp the pins for one connector family only in one operation. That type of tool is real nice but it's expensive and not versatile.
Delphi made two very versatile ratcheting terminal crimp tools. Actually more than two but these are the bees knees.
They crimp terminals in two operations. The conductor is crimped in the proper cavity for that terminal & wire gauge. Then you move the partially complete assembly to another cavity where the insulation or seal wings are crimped in a second operation.
I've crimped Deutsch DTM & DT open wing terminals, Molex GT, Metripak GT, Metripak 150 & 280, AMP Quadlok (VW AUDI), Weatherpak, Packard 56, and several other families on 14-20ga wires using the two Delphi tools. $220 for the pro level tools is a bargain for that versatility.
They cost between $90 & $130 each but you can position the terminal and ratchet the tool down and re-position the wire without loosing the jaw closure. They will not open til you have completed the crimp cycle or cammed the emergency release open so you don't end up with an over or under crimped terminal. You can likely evilbay these off for $95-$100 each if you take care of them and suddenly decide you don't need em.
-Delphi Ratcheting 12085270 Crimps Weatherpak and Metripak 150/280 sealed terminals... Three seal and two conductor wing cavities.
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-Delphi Ratcheting 12085271 Wide range crimper with five cavities for conductor and un-sealed insulation strain relief crimp wings.
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If you need to crimp Metripak 480 or 630 or Packard 59 terminals you need larger cavity tools but the above tools will crimp 85-95% of what you're likely to encounter.

These are some less expensive $30ish non ratcheting tools. These are great for the weekend warrior that's crimping a few terminals or as a tool to hold you over til you can find a nicer one but you'll tire of them quickly if you're building vehicle harnesses for your hot rod or restorations. The downside is you can open them before the crimp operation is completed and end up with loose crimps and they don't have the positive stops of the more expensive tools so you can over crimp the terminals as well.
-Wire and weather seal crimp tool for Weatherpak and Metripak 150/280 sealed terminals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CCAEJ6
-Wide range wire and jacket wing crimp tool for unsealed and sealed connector conductor wings. This tool will not crimp the Weatherpak/Metripak/Molex-GT weather seals but it will crimp the conductor wings of those families and both wings of un-sealed terminals. https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packar.../dp/B003MWJ6SA
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1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 07-07-2020 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 03-02-2020, 04:45 PM   #82
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I have a duplicate of this thread on the Silverado Sierra forums.
A member over there that goes by "silentbravo" on those boards mentioned Seargent tools has a slightly better version of the $30 tools made by Seargent... a subsidiary of Oetiker.
It looks like the ratcheting tools without the ratchet.
They also have copies of the Delphi tools I mentioned in the previous post.
According to their web page they are made in the United States.
http://www.sargenttools.com/ToolsByT...ed_Crimp_Tool/
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 03-08-2020, 10:33 AM   #83
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Very cool thread Hatzie, just read through it all. Thanks for all the good info, super helpful!
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Old 03-09-2020, 03:09 PM   #84
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

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Very cool thread Hatzie, just read through it all. Thanks for all the good info, super helpful!
Thanks. Glad to know it's useful. It didn't seem there was a lot of info out there all in one place.
I'm recording as I go so someone else doesn't have to dig as hard.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 03-09-2020, 04:08 PM   #85
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I fixed the truck this afternoon. The interesting thing is the money light went out instantly when the electrical connection to the new valve was installed.

There are two vent valves that could be installed.

My truck still had the factory GM single hose barb valve. I bought a $30 NAPA Echlin 2-282567. It's made in the USA... will wonders never cease.

You can install either valve type on your rig. The $100 two barb valve with remote air intake box and filter is part of GM TSB 02-06-04-037J for extremely dusty driving conditions.
If you drive mostly paved roads you can fit the less expensive valve.

The terminals in my vent valve plug were corroded away so I clipped it off right at the connector and replaced it using my wire-stripper, crimp tools, and new connector parts. I wiped Sil-Glyde on the terminals and connector seals with a plumbers flux brush.

Mouser Electronics kindly provided me the following pieces along with some other terminals, connectors, and seals for my tackle box bins in exchange for money. I believe it was just over the $25 minimum for cheap shipping. I usually have one of these in the terminal parts bins, since it's a common failure part, but I got caught with my pants down.
1. 12052643 Metripak 150 Two position Vent Valve plug. This can usually be re-used but the seal on mine was knackered and it was filled with white, green, and brown corrosion. Not a good home for new terminals.
1. 12052634 Metripak 150 Two position Terminal Position Lock. This can sometimes be re-used but mine was cracked.
2. 15324982 Green Delphi Metripak/Weatherpak Wire Seal.
2. 12084200 Female Metripak 150 tin plated terminals 18-20awg.
This is some of my haul but not everything...
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I use two Plano 787 tackle boxes with six individually closed plastic compartment bins for the more commonly used terminals, connectors, and seals. Not my original idea. I saw how the girlfriend keeps the beads sewing bits and bobs and other stuff organized and I stole her idear. The top tray has my strippers, and my commonly used crimping tools in oiled denim sleeves made for me from old pantlegs. I have several other plastic compartment bins from the craft and fishing aisles for my less commonly used terminals.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 04-21-2020 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 07-05-2020, 09:08 AM   #86
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Thanks for all the info hatzie! I open up a digital notepad when I read your thread updates. I average about three new notes per session. I'm enjoying seeing you get this rig shipshape.
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:51 PM   #87
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT7A View Post
Thanks for all the info hatzie! I open up a digital notepad when I read your thread updates. I average about three new notes per session. I'm enjoying seeing you get this rig shipshape.
Thanks for the encouragement.
I'm glad it's helpful.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 07-06-2020 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:28 PM   #88
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I just did the rear brakes. You can't have rust on the rotors surface to pass NH safety inspection now. I'm so glad I have a nanny in Concord looking out for me.

Nothing that exciting. NAPA Fleet rotors and pads. You can look up the parts and reserve them or even pay for them online before going to the store. The rotors and pads cost about the same as parts from Rock Auto when you factor in $100 US shipping.

A gotcha on the 2005 K2500HD. 4.63" or 4.84" centre hole. I'm not sure what determines whether the larger or smaller hole rotor is fitted to the vehicle.
My truck has JH6 brakes and the centre hole is 4.84"

GM thoughtfully put the top caliper slide bolts and the brake pad carrier retainer bolts close enough to the spring pak that putting a ratchet on the T55 Torx slide bolt is impossible.
The top pad carrier bolt is an interesting exercise to access but not impossible to use a socket on. I would make sure you have a length of pipe and a long breaker bar if this is the first time these bolts have been off. I had difficulty turning the bolts with my 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar.

The parking brake is old fashioned cable and lever two shoe drum brakes that run inside the hat of your rotor. Nothing super special. Adjust them with a spoon once you seat the drum just like regular old fashioned drum brakes.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:15 PM   #89
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
I just did the rear brakes. You can't have rust on the rotors surface to pass NH safety inspection now. I'm so glad I have a nanny in Concord looking out for me.

Nothing that exciting. NAPA Fleet rotors and pads. You can look up the parts and reserve them or even pay for them online before going to the store. The rotors and pads cost about the same as parts from Rock Auto when you factor in $100 US shipping.

A gotcha on the 2005 K2500HD. 4.63" or 4.84" centre hole. I'm not sure what determines whether the larger or smaller hole rotor is fitted to the vehicle.
My truck has JH6 brakes and the centre hole is 4.84"

GM thoughtfully put the top caliper slide bolts and the brake pad carrier retainer bolts close enough to the spring pak that putting a ratchet on the T55 Torx slide bolt is impossible.
The top pad carrier bolt is an interesting exercise to access but not impossible to use a socket on. I would make sure you have a length of pipe and a long breaker bar if this is the first time these bolts have been off. I had difficulty turning the bolts with my 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar.

The parking brake is old fashioned cable and lever two shoe drum brakes that run inside the hat of your rotor. Nothing super special. Adjust them with a spoon once you seat the drum just like regular old fashioned drum brakes.

Inspections? Rust on rear brake rotor? Any rust how much we talking here?
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:02 AM   #90
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

A ring around the outside. Not enough to make one bit of difference. They figured I would spring for $500 for replacing the rear brakes. The corruption that nanny state "safety" inspections generate. Once the safety failure is logged to the state no other inspection outfit will touch it.

It took me 45 minutes and $130 in parts.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 04-08-2021, 12:09 PM   #91
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Just checking in to say that I'm still following along, and keep up the good work. I don't usually attempt a repair on my truck without checking here first.

Edit: just skimmed back through the thread to see what I had previously shared, and was reminded I wanted to do the steering wheel swap and add the DeeZee tailgate damper. I also am reminded that I prefer the '05 and up hood and grille as opposed to the '03/'04. Very slight changes but big improvement in the front end, in my way of thinking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
A ring around the outside. Not enough to make one bit of difference.
Yep. That's "design intent", based on the size of the friction material and where it sits on the rotor. Every single truck of this configuration will have that.

K
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:05 PM   #92
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I assume you checked the inspection code as I've had shops try to pull one over on me before. Well mostly my fiance. She took her car in once and it got failed because the windows rolled down too slow. I took the car right back there, and said "hey man the inspection code states the drivers window has to work, it does not state a minimum speed for the windows" they slapped that sticker right on. They always think a chick is an easy mark.
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Old 04-09-2021, 10:29 AM   #93
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

The Snow on the roof makes em think I'm an easy mark.
I have looked at the inspection code.
I bought some parts and installed them myself a little ahead of schedule. I was intending to do all four corners this summer when I hit 100,000 miles. I tow an 8,500 lb trailer a few times a month. I figured 17 years and 100K is long enough.
Deflating the inspecting mechanic when he didn't get a payday from me was amusing. Like poking a balloon with a pin. Told him I'd see him in the morning that I'm not paying $365 for 45 minutes labor.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 04-09-2021 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 04-27-2021, 05:17 AM   #94
legendman
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Great thread !!

Following now that I have a 04 Dmax 3500.

Did you ever do the drivers seat cushion?
I saw you mention it replacing it but I didn't see a post on it.
My 3500 only has 137k on it but the drivers cushion needs to be replaced.
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1999 Chevy K2500 RCLB 350 4L80e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
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Old 04-27-2021, 04:09 PM   #95
hatzie
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

I have the foam and the cover. Haven't gotten to it yet.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 04-27-2021, 05:02 PM   #96
legendman
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
I have the foam and the cover. Haven't gotten to it yet.
Where did you get the foam ?

I have a new 99-03 bottom foam but I think it is different.
I got it for a 2000 GMC I used to have.
__________________
1993 GMC C1500 RCSB 350 TBI 4L60e
1999 Chevy K2500 RCLB 350 4L80e
2004 Chevy 3500 C&C Dmax Allison
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
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Old 04-27-2021, 09:03 PM   #97
hatzie
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Re: Hatzies 2005 2500HD

The Seat Shop. It's their DuroFoam cushion. Availability is strange right now. Like a lot of things.

It's 1999-02 and 2003-07. 2003 is when they changed a bunch about the T800 trucks.


The butt frame is bolted to the main seat frame. You remove the nuts from the front edge, carefully disconnect & disentangle the wiring, remove the side trim plastic, and then slide it off and start in with the upholstery.
LSX Matt made a video of re-foaming his 2nd design T800 Tahoe seat.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 04-27-2021 at 09:17 PM.
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