Will a cab fit into the 8' bed of 67-72 truck?

[georgieb51]

I just bought a truck cab all by itself and now I have to go pick it up and I am just wondering if anyone has any experience of loading a cab onto the regular 8' bed of a 67-72 truck. Willl it fit, and if so how did you do it? The doors are still attached to the cab. Thanks
PS: If anyone knows of a reasonably priced car hauling trailer in the vicinity of Reno NV that would solve my problem too.

[weq92f]

.

Works for the later model trucks...

And fords.

-klb

[402Bowtie]

Here's one way of lifting it. Make sure the straps are pulling directly up (as pictured) and not a choke hole to the center of the cab or else you'll bend the drip rails.

You might bring some railroad ties to place underneath the cab so the firewall doesn't interfere with the wheel tub. I made some saw horses to avoid that issue in the below picture. Guessing it might not even be an issue in a 67-72 bed...

[georgieb51]

Sp I am guessing that the general opinon is that it will fit in the 8' bed but you need to turn it sideways and add some extra blocking so the bottom of the cab has something to rest on.?

[402Bowtie]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

Sp I am guessing that the general opinon is that it will fit in the 8' bed but you need to turn it sideways and add some extra blocking so the bottom of the cab has something to rest on.?

Yep. The cab has two tubular braces/rails on the underside. I set those on the supports (short saw horses, railroad ties, etc) high enough to clear the rear cab corners from getting bent. That also helps clear the firewall from hitting a bed rail, wheel tub, etc. The saw horses work best IMO at about 36" long (rockers and rear cab sheet metal sit lower than the cab frame rails and you want the rails in contact with supports).

For the saw horses I just used a lot of 2x6 boards screwed together and two 2x4's for legs on the bottom at 90 degrees.

You might want to think through how you will tie it down. I've always had a newer truck with bed tie downs bolted into the corners. I use two ratchet straps over the cab floor to the bed tie downs. Have done this a few times and it works great. You might have to remove your cab's doors for this setup though.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by 402Bowtie

Yep. The cab has two tubular braces/rails on the underside. I set those on the supports (short saw horses, railroad ties, etc) high enough to clear the rear cab corners from getting bent. That also helps clear the firewall from hitting a bed rail, wheel tub, etc. The saw horses work best IMO at about 36" long (rockers and rear cab sheet metal sit lower than the cab frame rails and you want the rails in contact with supports).

For the saw horses I just used a lot of 2x6 boards screwed together and two 2x4's for legs on the bottom at 90 degrees.

You might want to think through how you will tie it down. I've always had a newer truck with bed tie downs bolted into the corners. I use two ratchet straps over the cab floor to the bed tie downs. Have done this a few times and it works great. You might have to remove your cab's doors for this setup though.

Thanks for the useful suggestions. Right now I am in a situation traveling across country and no access to a way of bullding sawhorses. Juat wondering if I found some wooden pallets and stacked them up between the wheel wells. Do you think that would work as well?

[57taskforce]

If you lift it with straps thru the door opening and don’t have forks long enough to pick it like pictured above you can also choke it and then lay an old 4x4 or similar that is wider and the the drip rails on top of the roof and then direct the straps over the ends of the 4x4. I’ve lifted several like this with no issues.

[georgieb51]

Thanks. Sounds like a good suggestion. I get the concept of not pinching the cab but giving plenty of equal support any way you can. I may end up load with just physical lifting with a few strong people since I am doing this with no help from machinery out in the desert.