Help with removing parking brake cable from frame.

[desert-rat]

I just cant seem to remove the cable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
And can someone please rotate the pics? Thanks again.

[jessemthompson]

Lube

[toolboxchev]

Getting ready to re-do mine, found some older threads on here. One guy say to use a box wrench and squeeze it on there to compress the tabs, didnt work.

Tried squeezing with pliers, didnt work.

What did work was the little bit of dirt that fell into my eye and sent me to the doctor twice now.

Fully recovered from that fiasco, got safety glasses, would really like to hear of a quick and easy solution for that little bastard.

[72 k15]

When I did mine i used a pliers pb blaster and vice grips and it went pretty easy, and this was with a rusty northern truck. Flipped them for you also.

[gmc684x4]

Use a hose clamp to close the barb retainers spray with Wd 40 and push or pull out

Look at the pictures and you can see the spread out retainer barbs keeping it in place

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

Use a hose clamp to close the barb retainers spray with Wd 40 and push or pull out

Look at the pictures and you can see the spread out retainer barbs keeping it in place

Broke 2 hose clamps doing that, it was the other suggestion listed on the forums on the old pages. Thanks for bringing it back up. Maybe I just had some old Made In America cheap clamps.

No seriously they were used and just slipped and bent. Still looking for a new trick.

[weim55]

X2, hose clamp works like a charm to compress the tangs, slide it through the hole slightly, then remove the hose clamp and push the rest of the way through the hole.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[toolboxchev]

Looking at the T Bar Clamps on amazon. They do not get that small. Both worm gear fuel line clamps would not compress the ears.

I have the 3/4 ton type, if that matters.

I guessing I need to try the fuel injection line clamps instead of the ideal worm gear clamps.

[toolboxchev]

Looking at the T Bar Clamps on amazon. They do not get that small. Both worm gear fuel line clamps would not compress the ears.

I have the 3/4 ton type, if that matters.

[LockDoc]

-
The tangs won't compress if the retainers are packed with dirt or rust. I hit the ones on the '69 I just disassembled with the pressure washer before I removed them. I just used channel locks and worked my way around them as I pulled on the cable.....

LockDoc

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
The tangs won't compress if the retainers are packed with dirt or rust. I hit the ones on the '69 I just disassembled with the pressure washer before I removed them. I just used channel locks and worked my way around them as I pulled on the cable.....

LockDoc

I can get the tangs to compress with vise grips, not permanently though. Spring steel is tough. The move to compress the others, and the compressed ones pop out again.

There has to be a better way. Mine are probably original...just bought 2 new needle nose vise grips.............

[randy500]

I have taken hundreds of those off and this method always works.

1. Place Hose clamp tight against the bracket for max leverage on the tangs, tighten it up.
2. Use a hammer and punch to drive the cable through the tightened hose clamp with the tangs compressed.
Lube the cable tangs before tightening the clamp to allow it to slide easer while clamped.

If I’m not re using the cables, I just break the tangs off with a screwdriver at the root of the tang, the break off real easy because they are hardened steel.

[notsolo]

Slide a 1/2 " might be ( 9/16") box end wrench over the cable, it just fits over the expanded end work back and forth, when it gets to the stop pull cable out.

[un4gvn!]

I used a 12 point deep well socket. I can't remember if it was a 1/2 or 9/16. Tap it on with a hammer and it will collapse it enough to clear the hole.

[kwmech]

Always just used a pair of channel locks to squeeze the tabs and work my way around while pulling out the cable.....never had a problem.

[toolboxchev]

gunna have to break out some UMMPPPPHHHHH!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Hose clamps work great. If I remember right I've had success using ring-nose pliers as well. But like Doc said, if it's caked you need to clean it first.

[67C10Step]

New cables aren’t that expensive. Just throwing that out there for when you finally get frustrated enough to brake the tabs off and tear the old ones out.

Don’t ask me how I know this path......

[desert-rat]

Thanks everybody for the replies. Good information there and some pretty funny stories too. Since I painted the frame and left those brake cables on, I can't seem to pinch those flared out parts. So I am going to either have to break off the tabs or cut them off. The truck is undergoing a full frame off restoration anyway so why not buy a new set of parking brake cables too.

[bluehook]

Lisle 40800 parking brake cable remover

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321726

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by bluehook

lisle 40800 parking brake cable remover

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321726

bingo!

[randy500]

Originally Posted by bluehook

Lisle 40800 parking brake cable remover

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321726

Dont buy it, its cheap enough but doesnt work. Hole is too big.

[dagnabbitt]

I was in the same boat as you last week and I have to admit: I tried for an hour to get it off clean, then I just busted the hell out of those flares.

I figure a hose clamp or some other device can secure it when I put it back on. I am sure you can improve upon four or five little 50 year-old tangs.

[desert-rat]

I was able to use a 9/16 box-end wrench. A few tap of the hammer, a bit of wiggle, and off it came. Hose clamp didnt work. Thanks all for your replies and ideas.

[67C10Step]

AC Delco replacement cable at RockAuto is $10.46 before shipping/taxes.

My patience ain't what it used to be and mine were in bad shape so breaking the tabs and having them out in less than 30 minutes was a no brainer for me.