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Old 12-30-2002, 02:15 AM   #1
69GMC910
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Poor fuel mileage, BANG! Engine trouble!

Installed a performer plus cam in the 350, performer intake, and performer 600cfm carb also bolted on. Noticed a little power increase, and HIGH FUEL CONSUMPTION. The rest of the engine is stock and previously ran 20mpg using the 4.54 litres=1 Gallon.

So I put about 200-250 miles on the truck breaking the cam in. All is well at this point.

So today I went for a 250 mile road trip. I made it 87 of those miles and had to turn back home.

The engine started sounding rough and when I went to accelerate it would knock REALLY bad. Now I think I may have adjusted the pushrods incorrectly, is this would most of you would assume. I have done pushrods before and been successful, but I don't know about this time.

I had slack in them when they were off the cam lobe, I just hope i didn't have too much slack.

Would improperly adjusted pushrods cause poor fuel economy?

Help, I have to fix this in the morning!!!!


THANX!
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:23 AM   #2
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You said knock like bottom end knock or like a lifter went bad did you also replace lifers or did you reuse your old ones????
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:24 AM   #3
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yea when u do the valve adjustment u need to follow the directions that come with the cam. the rocker should be tightened down until theres no more up and down play then another half turn.did u do a proper break in on the cam. u need to let that thing run for about 20 mins at nothing below 2000rpm to properly break in the cam.otherwise its just gonna wipe itself out like ur describing now. im willing to bet that cam and lifters is toast form what u described. dont run anymore until u tear it apart. no need to spew more metal through the motor
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:29 AM   #4
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If your valves are constantly open or open longer then they should be you wont be developing much cylinder pressure and yes you would be getting bad gas mileage. I assume your'e using hydraulic lifters. try readjusting them. Theres some chart you can use to adjust them so you dont have to do each cylinder individually . Phooey ! Bring it around to each cylinders tdc. Heres a tip that will save you a lot of frustration . Invest $25 in a set of polylocks ! I used to have a hell of a time adjusting the hydraulics until I started using polylocs. Nothing could be easier ! Bring it around to that cylinders TDC loosen the loc, loosen the nut and then tighten it with your fingers until you cant tighten it any more . Then tighten it another 1/2- 2/3 of a turn with a wrench. Do the other valve on that cylnder then tighten the jam set screws. Go on to the next cylinder. Its so easy . It works best after the engine has run for a while so the lifters are pumped up.


before you get too carried away drain your oil and see if it looks clean or if its silvery. Cut open the filter. If theres a lot of shiny sludge then your filters packed and you bypassed the filter long enough to wipe your bearings out and probably some crank journals.
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Last edited by mikep; 12-30-2002 at 02:32 AM.
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:29 AM   #5
69GMC910
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I had more slack than you have described. I did the 20 minute break-in over 2000rpm. It is definitely a top end knock no questions asked. New lifters came with cam, used all the assembly lube stuff. I am really hoping it is pushrods.


Thanks for the help, keep em coming!
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12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
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Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:32 AM   #6
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When I compression tested it, all eight were between 168-180psi
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12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
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Old 12-30-2002, 03:59 AM   #7
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if you can wait untill tomarow i can get you the easy way to adjust them, it invovles getting #1 to TDC compression, then adjusting half of them (certain ones) then turn it 360 degrees and adjust the rest

btw-- ill look around tonight
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Old 12-30-2002, 04:04 AM   #8
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The way I usually adjust them is as follows:
I have a valve cover that a cut the center out of to keep oil from splattering everywhere.
i start the motor up, loosen off the rocker till it makes noise, then tighten it till it stops making noise then a quarter turn
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Old 12-30-2002, 08:44 AM   #9
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for US gallons muliply by 3.8
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Old 12-30-2002, 08:44 AM   #10
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Out of left field, but you may want to recheck your timing and idle fuel mixture screws. Maybe your distributor is a little loose and rotated? Maybe fuel is running too lean? Either will cause knocking on acceleration. Sometimes it's the easy things.
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Old 12-30-2002, 10:12 AM   #11
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Okay, it's morning here, I'm gonna go pull the pushrods and see how they look. I'll get back to you if I have time for an update!

Thanks !
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82 GMC High Sierra
VortecPro 496
12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
Current best- 11.33@117mph
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Old 12-30-2002, 01:00 PM   #12
69GMC910
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Okay all, here's the scoop.

Pulled the valve covers off and found that #5 exhaust lifter was crooked, removed rocker and pushrod, pushrod bent, top of valve is rounded off.

My dad thinks he is joe mechanic and he wants to file the rounded part flat on the valve. I say it needs a new valve.

Opinions and a reason why this would happen would help me a lot.

Thanks!
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82 GMC High Sierra
VortecPro 496
12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
Current best- 11.33@117mph
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Old 12-30-2002, 01:22 PM   #13
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Back to the top!
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82 GMC High Sierra
VortecPro 496
12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
Current best- 11.33@117mph
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Old 12-30-2002, 02:10 PM   #14
69GMC910
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Just spoke to an engine rebuilder and he told me that the fix for this problem is new style rockeres that have some sorta rails that prevent the rocker from sliding off the valve. Whaddaya think???


Thanks
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82 GMC High Sierra
VortecPro 496
12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
Current best- 11.33@117mph
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Old 12-31-2002, 12:00 AM   #15
69GMC910
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we put on the new style rockers and replaced the bent pushrod,we set the valves as hooter suggested and the 350 ran just fine. then the young fellow headed out on the 250 mile road trip and made it with no problem. thanks for all the advice. joe mechanic
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82 GMC High Sierra
VortecPro 496
12 Bolt, 3.42's

AFR 265
Holley 850
Performer RPM Air Gap
Hooker 2455's
TCI Turbo 400 Super Street Fighter
TRRC 12 Bolt
Eaton Posi
Mark Williams Axles
Cal-Tracs
Hoosier 30x10.5 Radial Slick
Full weight long box pickup
Current best- 11.33@117mph
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Old 12-31-2002, 09:38 AM   #16
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I always go 3/4 turn after the ticking stops. (1/4 at a time) Have I been wrong all these years?
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