Boyd Tank Installation

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Thank you for the kind words, guys.



I gave the filler neck a good hard shove inward, and I tried twisting it, but it feels nice and solid. I think it's going to stay put. I cut the pieces out with a jigsaw, and I used a hand file to clean them up. I also bent the bracket in a vise with a hammer. These methods are miserable, time consuming, and the end result looks very much like a prototype. I don't care to repeat this process. I will, however, put together drawings of the ring and bracket and have a machine shop quote to have maybe a batch of 10 pieces made. Then all I'd have to do is weld them together and paint them.

What year is your K10? Does it have a non-EEC tank?

My build is a 1972 K10, when I bought the project it had a new 350 TBI that the guy bought in 1991 according to the receipts from a GM Dealer in Az. The throttle body is a Howell set up with computer. I removed in cab tank and bought the Boyd tank with Stealth fuel pump, rollover vent, mounting kit and fuel sending unit. The pump that came with the Howell TBI I believe was a 15psi inline pump that bolted along frame and covered with a stainless cover. I'm hoping to clean it up the final instll by using the Boyd tank and in tank pump.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

My build is a 1972 K10, when I bought the project it had a new 350 TBI that the guy bought in 1991 according to the receipts from a GM Dealer in Az. The throttle body is a Howell set up with computer. I removed in cab tank and bought the Boyd tank with Stealth fuel pump, rollover vent, mounting kit and fuel sending unit. The pump that came with the Howell TBI I believe was a 15psi inline pump that bolted along frame and covered with a stainless cover. I'm hoping to clean it up the final instll by using the Boyd tank and in tank pump.

I guess it doesn't matter too much of you had an EEC tank in the truck originally. You'd just have to get a new non-EEC filler neck seal.

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I guess it doesn't matter too much of you had an EEC tank in the truck originally. You'd just have to get a new non-EEC filler neck seal.

Not sure what you mean by non EEC filler neck? I have the outer grommet though. I will order the filler neck as you did as thats a great idea! I was going to cut one off my old tank but its still a good usable OEM tank.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

Not sure what you mean by non EEC filler neck? I have the outer grommet though. I will order the filler neck as you did as thats a great idea! I was going to cut one off my old tank but its still a good usable OEM tank.

The filler neck on 67-70 tanks is 2" in diameter, whereas the filler neck for 71-72 tanks is 1-1/2". Here's a screenshot from gmcpauls.com.

https://gmcpauls.com/fuel_tank_&_related.htm

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

The filler neck on 67-70 tanks is 2" in diameter, whereas the filler neck for 71-72 tanks is 1-1/2". Here's a screenshot from gmcpauls.com.

https://gmcpauls.com/fuel_tank_&_related.htm

Mine is a 72 so what did you use? So is my filler hole in truck body same size and just bigger grommet? Never realized there was a difference.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

Mine is a 72 so what did you use? So is my filler hole in truck body same size and just bigger grommet? Never realized there was a difference.

I used the 67-70 style grommet. I believe the hole in the cab is the same size for 67-72.

[pjmoreland]

According to this thread, the cab holes are the same size.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...ad.php?t=26676

[AllGoNoShow]

One thing I didn’t “get” with this install is that aeromotive recommends 10g wire and a 30amp fuse (even though they say the pump only pulls amps in the teens), yet the pigtails from the actual in tank pump are 14g, which you would think would be a concern if the wire actually saw anything near 30amps. Then it brings up a question of whether a weatherpak connector is appropriate as they are only rated to 20amps (but a metri-pak is good to 30). Probably overthinking it here.
Posted via Mobile Device

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I used the 67-70 style grommet. I believe the hole in the cab is the same size for 67-72.

That would work for me as well. Like the thought of the bigger look.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by AllGoNoShow

One thing I didn’t “get” with this install is that aeromotive recommends 10g wire and a 30amp fuse (even though they say the pump only pulls amps in the teens), yet the pigtails from the actual in tank pump are 14g, which you would think would be a concern if the wire actually saw anything near 30amps. Then it brings up a question of whether a weatherpak connector is appropriate as they are only rated to 20amps (but a metri-pak is good to 30). Probably overthinking it here.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah, I thought that was odd, as well. I wonder if they are just wanting lower resistance wire for such a long run from the power source. I figured the WeatherPak connectors would be fine due to the actual current draw and wire gauge of the pump.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

That would work for me as well. Like the thought of the bigger look.

I received a quote from the machine shop to fabricate the parts. I started a new thread to gauge interest in the dummy filler neck since it would be a bit of a commitment on my part to order a high enough quantity of parts to keep the price down. Please let me know what you think.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829199

[68is4me]

Thanks for the write up. I was just thinking about doing an electric fuel pump upgrade on my existing boyd fuel tank this winter.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 68is4me

Thanks for the write up. I was just thinking about doing an electric fuel pump upgrade on my existing boyd fuel tank this winter.

I like the simplicity of mechanical fuel pumps, but an electric fuel pump gives you more options when selecting an engine.

[pjmoreland]

I replaced the 30A fuseholder so the wire isn't getting pulled tight.

[ET702]

I'm staring the process right now. Helps so much thanks

[pjmoreland]

I filled my tank up all the way for the first time today, and it was leaking from the top. I jammed my arm in there from the wheel well and felt around. The top of the fuel level sensor felt wet. I jacked up the driver side of the truck and put jack stands on that side only so it was tipped way to the right. I used an inspection camera to take a look, and there was fuel trickling out of the cube shaped piece on the top of the sensor that the cable comes out of. I will be calling Boyd's in the morning. I'm not looking forward to emptying and dropping the tank. Here's a video that shows the leak.

https://youtu.be/Yi5TRk_VtoY

[A1971Blazer]

Nice work....too bad a brand new tank leaks...
I have about the same set up on my '67 with LS1 swap

I put an inline filter in the frame rail up close to the engine

[Rich72C10]

man, that sucks! Hope Boyd's works with you on a solution!

[67C10Step]

Keep us updated. I always say the true measure of a vendor is what they do when there is an issue.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Keep us updated. I always say the true measure of a vendor is what they do when there is an issue.

I sent them the video showing the leak. Dave Boyd said he has never seen that type of leak before. They are going to ship me out a replacement unit.

[Rich72C10]

That's good news (and bad) .... bad that you have to drain and swap it out! Practice makes perfect, I guess.

[ET702]

That's a good vendor for you. Sorry for the trouble though.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I sent them the video showing the leak. Dave Boyd said he has never seen that type of leak before. They are going to ship me out a replacement unit.

There you go. Confirms we are doing business with the correct company/person.

[Thundarr]

Following this thread. Just ordered my Boyd tank yesterday.

Thanks for all the detail!

[Jason Banks]

That's odd. The sending unit on my Boyd's tank doesn't have that square part on top. Only the 2 terminals for wires...

I wondered if they have started using a different sender.