47-59 Front suspension feedback

[-Dan-]

I plan on keeping the original frame. Have not decided on using the I6 or sbc. I’m looking for feedback on this setup from Speedway Motors. Any better options?

[51 3600]

I don't have any personal experience to relay to you but here are links to a YouTube channel, Silvo's Shop, where he installs the assembly you're asking about.
Part I: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJB_MHviJz8&t=127s
Part II: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIxZWjqwEKM

[-Dan-]

Originally Posted by 51 3600

I don't have any personal experience to relay to you but here are links to a YouTube channel, Silvo's Shop, where he installs the assembly you're asking about.
Part I: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJB_MHviJz8&t=127s
Part II: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIxZWjqwEKM

Thanks!

[mr48chev]

That Speedway kit is all bolt in and all you need to do it is a hand full of wrenches and a half inch drill and some good jack stands. The bolt in crossmember adds a bit of cost but if you don't or aren't set up to weld it is a great way to go. One thing besides being bolt on that I like is that you can adjust it a bit to get your truck to sit perfect.

if you can weld or don't have to pay someone to weld it A weld in kit from Heidts shows to be 2200.00 list price if their catalog is up to date. https://www.heidts.com/shop-by-appli...55&y=1947-1954

You would have to check to make sure of the price, but The Heidts kits are pretty well the standard of the industry.

Either way should give you a pretty decent setup.

[-Dan-]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That Speedway kit is all bolt in and all you need to do it is a hand full of wrenches and a half inch drill and some good jack stands. The bolt in crossmember adds a bit of cost but if you don't or aren't set up to weld it is a great way to go. One thing besides being bolt on that I like is that you can adjust it a bit to get your truck to sit perfect.

if you can weld or don't have to pay someone to weld it A weld in kit from Heidts shows to be 2200.00 list price if their catalog is up to date. https://www.heidts.com/shop-by-appli...55&y=1947-1954

You would have to check to make sure of the price, but The Heidts kits are pretty well the standard of the industry.



Either way should give you a pretty decent setup.

I spotted that and wondered what the difference between the two kits were - which prompted my question. I would rather weld it in place anyway!
Thanks for the response.

[mr48chev]

The Heidts page gives you an option list to tailor (with increased cost) the suspension to suit you wants. It would still take a lot of add ons to eat that 700 up.

[Florida5100]

With Heidts Mustang II, if you opt for Coil-overs, swaybar, power steering and 11" Willwoods, you are at the same price as their SuperRide II (~$4600) which includes all of that.

[mr48chev]

You have to watch that on anyone's kit that has options. I'd rather see someone stick with the outfits like Heidts or Fatman (hard to decode catalog now) who are known for putting out a quality product rather than going with some of the "cheap" Ebay offerings that are a bit suspect.

That Speedway kit looks like a Chassis engineering inc designed crossmember with Speedway sourced add on pieces but should be a decent kit. As I said fantastic for the guy who doesn't have a welder and can't weld or can't weld where he is working on the truck. I saw that basic kit when RB Obsolete was selling them 30 years ago and it was pretty nifty but a tad bulky compared to ones like Florida5100 has.

[dsraven]

without reading any previous posts of yours I would say it depends on what your final goal is. a MII front end has fairly short control arms so if you are looking at a lot of suspension travel, like for a bagged truck that is in the weeds one minute and then driving around the next, you may wanna consider that. the bolt in option works well if you don't weld or don't wanna pay a certified welder so it is legit for insurance or whatever, and you can always be welded in once you get it all done and decide you like it, wanna keep it but want to have it solidly mounted.
as mentioned in a previous post, sometimes a kit that is upgraded for what you want costs as much as a better kit. you wanna check the quality of the parts and how things like ball joint seal boots are installed, some are a sealed unit with the boot being pressed onto/into the joint and some have a floppy push on seal that doesn't fit well when the suspension is sitting level let alone when it is moving through a suspension cycle. I have done a kit that shipped with bargoon basement components and there would be no way the seals/boots would hold out any road dirt so they would soon need replacement. try to get a list of what the parts came from as well so you know what to look for in a few years when stuff may need replacing. also check the material thickness on the cross member and the wall thickness on the control arms. what size of brake rotors, what type of brake pad material, etc etc. sometimes the cheaper kit simply means you will get el cheapo deluxe components that you will wanna upgrade.
whatever your final decision is, you will need to also know the rake angle you want the truck to sit at when done and then set it up for that when you do your cross member install. otherwise you run the chance of poor handling and inability to set the wheel alignment correct. I really suggest you go to the heidts catalogue and look in the tech section for an article on "understanding independent front suspension". it will give you some insight on what to do and what not to do when you come to welding or bolting in the cross member. when done, at ride height od suspension, the lower control arms should be level both side to side and fore to aft. since the pivot for these is possibly not true with the steel on the cross member it is best to use the control arm pivot bolts as extensions of the pivot when setting up. you can push the bolts into their bores but bring them out in front of the cross member far enough to set a level on them to check side to side and fore to aft level of the actual pivot shaft. I suggest to use a short digital level sitting on a longer straight edge like a 4 ft level. you will need a long straight edge to level the frame anyway, which should also be done with a digital level. same for the fore to aft levelling. set the frame up on stands and secure it so you can do some heavy work with it and it won't move. recheck the level every once in awhile when working. if doing the bolt in cross member I suggest to use a reamer drill as they just require a pilot hole so they can get started and they leave a perfectly round hole of the correct size. regular drills tend to drill out of round or oval the hole.

do you have a plan for the build? lowered but not bagged?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Digi-Pas...0Pro/305084719


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-Am...S3-4/307840586

[dsraven]

also, some MII kits use a set of T bolts for the upper control arm pivot retainer/adjuster and some use a vertical plate and shim packs. the old way with the T bolts has been around for years but the newer design stuff uses the vertical plate mounting as it is apparently stronger.

here is a site showing the T bolt style
https://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/m...o-hub-ifs.html

there is a pic in this site that shows the vertical plate that the upper control arm pivot bolts to.
https://totalcostinvolved.com/produc...il-spring-ifs/

[-Dan-]

Thanks for the responses. At the moment, I am going to stick with stock height.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by -Dan-

Thanks for the responses. At the moment, I am going to stick with stock height.

i'd definitely call the vendor. i believe all mustII kits lower the frame at least 7"

[dsraven]

Yeah, my thoughts as well, gonna drop with a MII crossmember

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the newer design stuff uses the vertical plate mounting as it is apparently stronger.

its not just stronger, my day job is engineering and I see this all the time, its about direction of force

on the t nut stuff the direction of force is in line with the slots, when the arm moves up or down the force is horizontal, the t nuts clamping force has to hold the arm in its position as the arm is trying to push it back or forth in the slot.

with the vertical mount, the horizontal force is taken by the vertical mount, not the clamping force of the nuts, which is what you want .

tightening the t nuts down on that mild steel can really booger it up and make it harder to stay tight, especially with lock washers. we went to a swap meet here recently and a guy with a 46 had a MII and his camber and caster was wayy out on one side, the t nuts had come loose on the drive.

get the vertical type if you can, although other guys have given you really good first hand experience with the kit you asked about so dont just take my not-first-hand advice either.

[dsraven]

its what I was thinking but didn't say. lots of guys have that style and have no problems but the newer style is stronger. didn't wanna hurt any feelings, you know.