Motor swap - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Seth2789 · 10-12-2020, 08:53 PM

Hey guys,

This is my first time swapping an engine and need some advice. I bought the mounts from some fab store off ebay. My question is that the motor looks like it's sitting very unlevel. I've looked all over the internet and cannot get a straight answer. Look at my pictures and tell me what you think! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

geezer#99 · 10-12-2020, 08:56 PM

Where’s the pics?

Seth2789 · 10-12-2020, 09:01 PM

Check it out!

**HO455** · 10-12-2020, 09:15 PM

Which direction are you concerned about side to side or forward to aft? Engines in our trucks always have the front of the engine higher than the back.

Seth2789 · 10-12-2020, 09:21 PM

Front to rear. It just seems like it's sitting very high in the front.

geezer#99 · 10-12-2020, 09:21 PM

That’s normal.
Carbed motors sit down at the back. About a 4 to 6 degree slope.
Carb intakes are made so the carb sits level.
Fuel injected motors also sit like that.
Not as critical.
Down in back gives lower trans tunnel needs as well as driveshaft angle not as severe.

Put an angle finder on the tailshaft to see what it is.

**kwmech** · 10-13-2020, 12:34 AM

To me, it looks like the nose of the crank is sitting too high in relation to the engine in my truck. Wonder where the center of the water pump will be with the radiator

AU Doc · 10-13-2020, 10:03 AM

Looks like it needs the trans mount on it to know for sure what the angle will be. Once you have a trans mount, then put an angle finder on it.

68 P.O.S. · 10-13-2020, 10:23 AM

Also looks like your upper A-arms are on the wrong sides.

**kwmech** · 10-13-2020, 01:06 PM

Good catch on the A arms. Looking close at the pics it appears his center link is in backwards also

68 P.O.S. · 10-13-2020, 01:44 PM

I can't tell for sure, but you may be right on that centerlink

Seth2789 · 10-13-2020, 09:05 PM

Man thanks so much for catching that. This is my first rebuild ever and I've learned a lot. Man I feel stupid for messing that up!

Seth2789 · 10-13-2020, 09:09 PM

Do the lower ones look right?

garyd1961 · 10-13-2020, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth2789

Man thanks so much for catching that. This is my first rebuild ever and I've learned a lot. Man I feel stupid for messing that up!

Don't feel bad you certainly ain't the first one to do it.

Seth2789 · 10-13-2020, 09:12 PM

The lower ones have to be right because of the shocks. What about the centerlink?

**kwmech** · 10-14-2020, 01:41 AM

The tie rods have to come from the back so the castle nuts are forward. Meaning that the center part needs to be swapped from pitman to idler so the tapers come in from the rear

68 P.O.S. · 10-14-2020, 11:10 AM

No reason for you to feel stupid, it happens to ALL of us

Yes, your lower arms are on there correctly, but the uppers need to be switched. I can't really tell on the centerlink tho, can you take a couple close pics showing the orientation? kwmech is correct on the tie rods mounting location. I like the engine btw, looks good

Richard2112 · 10-14-2020, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezer#99

That’s normal.
Carbed motors sit down at the back. About a 4 to 6 degree slope.
Carb intakes are made so the carb sits level.
Fuel injected motors also sit like that.
Not as critical.
Down in back gives lower trans tunnel needs as well as driveshaft angle not as severe.

Put an angle finder on the tailshaft to see what it is.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Pay special attention to your drive line angle.

bry593 · 10-14-2020, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezer#99

That’s normal.
Carbed motors sit down at the back. About a 4 to 6 degree slope.

Nominal GM tilt is 3 degrees. Some may have more, some less, but the pad on a q-jet intake is machined at 3 degrees.

**j_cst_10** · 10-15-2020, 01:18 PM

Good advice so far. Put the trans mount in and then put an angle finder on it. Roughly between 3-5 degree. You can put shims under the transmission mount to lessen the angle if it comes out more severe once you measure it.

AU Doc · 10-15-2020, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j_cst_10

Good advice so far. Put the trans mount in and then put an angle finder on it. Roughly between 3-5 degree. You can put shims under the transmission mount to lessen the angle if it comes out more severe once you measure it.

Agreed.

Some swap kits will tilt everything down more in order for the trans to clear the floorpan. Then leave you with the headache of working out driveline angles. I'm still working on my first C10 build, so I have no idea how much space there is to work with, but keep in mind there may be a limit to how much you can shim the trans up without hitting the floor pan (of course there also may be miles of room, I honestly don't know). Just something to consider if the cab isn't on the frame.

10-12-2020, 08:53 PM	#1
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Motor swap Hey guys, This is my first time swapping an engine and need some advice. I bought the mounts from some fab store off ebay. My question is that the motor looks like it's sitting very unlevel. I've looked all over the internet and cannot get a straight answer. Look at my pictures and tell me what you think! Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Attached Images Last edited by Seth2789; 10-12-2020 at 09:00 PM.

10-12-2020, 08:56 PM	#2
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,519	Re: Motor swap Where’s the pics?

10-12-2020, 09:01 PM	#3
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Re: Motor swap Check it out!

10-12-2020, 09:15 PM	#4
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 10,842	Re: Motor swap Which direction are you concerned about side to side or forward to aft? Engines in our trucks always have the front of the engine higher than the back. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

10-12-2020, 09:21 PM	#5
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Re: Motor swap Front to rear. It just seems like it's sitting very high in the front.

10-12-2020, 09:21 PM	#6
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,519	Re: Motor swap That’s normal. Carbed motors sit down at the back. About a 4 to 6 degree slope. Carb intakes are made so the carb sits level. Fuel injected motors also sit like that. Not as critical. Down in back gives lower trans tunnel needs as well as driveshaft angle not as severe. Put an angle finder on the tailshaft to see what it is.

10-13-2020, 12:34 AM	#7
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,397	Re: Motor swap To me, it looks like the nose of the crank is sitting too high in relation to the engine in my truck. Wonder where the center of the water pump will be with the radiator

10-13-2020, 10:03 AM	#8
AU Doc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: LA - Lower Alabama Posts: 57	Re: Motor swap Looks like it needs the trans mount on it to know for sure what the angle will be. Once you have a trans mount, then put an angle finder on it. Last edited by AU Doc; 10-13-2020 at 10:31 AM.

10-13-2020, 10:23 AM	#9
68 P.O.S. Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Puyallup, WA Posts: 1,661	Re: Motor swap Also looks like your upper A-arms are on the wrong sides. __________________ 72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo

10-13-2020, 01:06 PM	#10
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,397	Re: Motor swap Good catch on the A arms. Looking close at the pics it appears his center link is in backwards also

10-13-2020, 01:44 PM	#11
68 P.O.S. Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Puyallup, WA Posts: 1,661	Re: Motor swap I can't tell for sure, but you may be right on that centerlink __________________ 72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo

10-13-2020, 09:05 PM	#12
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Re: Motor swap Man thanks so much for catching that. This is my first rebuild ever and I've learned a lot. Man I feel stupid for messing that up!

10-13-2020, 09:09 PM	#13
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Re: Motor swap Do the lower ones look right?

10-13-2020, 09:12 PM	#15
Seth2789 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Athens AL Posts: 7	Re: Motor swap The lower ones have to be right because of the shocks. What about the centerlink?

10-14-2020, 01:41 AM	#16
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,397	Re: Motor swap The tie rods have to come from the back so the castle nuts are forward. Meaning that the center part needs to be swapped from pitman to idler so the tapers come in from the rear



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10-14-2020, 11:10 AM	#17
68 P.O.S. Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Puyallup, WA Posts: 1,661	Re: Motor swap No reason for you to feel stupid, it happens to ALL of us Yes, your lower arms are on there correctly, but the uppers need to be switched. I can't really tell on the centerlink tho, can you take a couple close pics showing the orientation? kwmech is correct on the tie rods mounting location. I like the engine btw, looks good __________________ 72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo

10-15-2020, 01:18 PM	#20
j_cst_10 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 575	Re: Motor swap Good advice so far. Put the trans mount in and then put an angle finder on it. Roughly between 3-5 degree. You can put shims under the transmission mount to lessen the angle if it comes out more severe once you measure it. __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 Custom Camper 12 Valve Cummins/5spd manual 1972 Cheyenne Super Short Bed 557 Med Olive DK olive 1970 K5 Blazer Dark Gold 1966 Coronet 440 35k mile survivor 1991 Suburban 2500 454/4L80E 2wd 1985 Monte Carlo SS 383 Sbc, t-56 magnum 6spd and Ford 9"

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