Steering Loose After Seal Replacement

[cebra]

I replaced the input shaft seal on my steering gear this weekend and I jacked something up. My steps were: 1. Drop Column, 2. Unbolt/remove rag joint, 3. Remove lock nut on Steering Gear, 4. Measure cartridge and remove, 5. Replace seals, 6. Reintstall cartridge to same # of threads, 7. Reinstall locknut, rag joint, and column.

My wheel always had a "dead space" form ~ 10 to 1:30 where you could turn the steering wheel and the truck didn't respond. Now the "dead space" has shifted from ~ 9 to 12:30 so if you turn the wheel right, the truck goes right but you have to turn it left for a while (~9) before the truck turns left. I have 2 issues to resolve, (1) it seems I have turned something (I don't know how as the rag joint seems as it will only go on one way) to shift the deadspace so now when I drive the steering wheel instead of at 12, I run at 10:30 or so and (2) need something tightened up to get rid of the deadspace (perhaps tightening the cartridge up?). Thanks for any help.

[cebra]

I hope the description makes sense, I basically have 0 response on the steering wheel of about 45 degrees from driving straight (at whatever orientation that is on the wheel).

2nd, when I replaced my input shaft seal, my wheel went from straight up to turned to the left 22.5 degrees to track straight down the road. Not sure how anything could have got turned due to the one-way orientation of the rag joint.

[LockDoc]

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I'm not sure why the "dead" space would change but I think it would have to be something in the box. Maybe something moved inside when you removed or replaced the cartridge.

Don't know if you saw Kevin's thread on re-sealing a box or not but here is a link to it. The photo's have been watermarked by PB but you can still see enough of them to help. According to kevin,s thread the cartridge should not be tightened to the same location it was originally but re-seated to new specs.

Smear grease on the inner seals and the outer O ring and screw the cartridge back into the steering box. Screw it into place until it bottoms out. You'll feel it. It screws down nice and smooth, then all of the sudden, stops. Don't reef down on it, stop there. Now, measure 1/2" and back off the adjuster that amount.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619634

LockDoc

[cebra]

I did see that and am thinking the cartridge being screwed in too far or not far enough may be causing the issue. Just a lot of slop in the steering now. I read quite a few folks saying to count the threads and screw it in that far again but may have to blow it apart again once I figure for sure what to fix. It was an entire day project to replace the top seal so I don't want to make sure before I tear the truck down again.

[cebra]

Got this fixed using the post by Lockdoc (thanks). I had read somewhere to count the threads on and off...that just didn't work for me. I pulled it apart, followed the instructions by TXfirefighter and it is tight and right. Much better than it has ever been actually, must have always been slightly loose. Feels great.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by cebra

Got this fixed using the post by Lockdoc (thanks). I had read somewhere to count the threads on and off...that just didn't work for me. I pulled it apart, followed the instructions by TXfirefighter and it is tight and right. Much better than it has ever been actually, must have always been slightly loose. Feels great.

Good deal. Glad you got it dialed in.

LockDoc

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by cebra

Got this fixed using the post by Lockdoc (thanks). I had read somewhere to count the threads on and off...that just didn't work for me. I pulled it apart, followed the instructions by TXfirefighter and it is tight and right. Much better than it has ever been actually, must have always been slightly loose. Feels great.

Maybe I’m over thinking it, but when he says loosen it 1/2” does he mean in the in/out direction or just a half inch on the outer radius? Does that make sense?

[cebra]

Originally Posted by Willys_MB

Maybe I’m over thinking it, but when he says loosen it 1/2” does he mean in the in/out direction or just a half inch on the outer radius? Does that make sense?

He means loosen it 1/2”, i drew a paint pen line on the “cartride” and on the rim of the box (basically 1 continuous line) and then loosened it to where the cartridge line was 1/2” from the line on the rim of the box where the cartridge screw in. Hope that makes sense I don’t have a picture.

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by cebra

He means loosen it 1/2”, i drew a paint pen line on the “cartride” and on the rim of the box (basically 1 continuous line) and then loosened it to where the cartridge line was 1/2” from the line on the rim of the box where the cartridge screw in. Hope that makes sense I don’t have a picture.

So it sounds like it’s only 1/4-1/8 of a turn or so, right?

[Bigdav160]

The 'cartridge' is called the adjuster plug and sets the preload on the worm gear bearing. Too loose and turning the steering wheel just moves the worm gear in and out without moving the sector shaft (slop)

[cebra]

1/8 turn is probably close, not sure what the circumference of the opening is but 4” seems feasible. Oddly enough my instructions with the new input seal referred to it as the cartridge but I assumed that was not the proper name.

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by cebra

1/8 turn is probably close, not sure what the circumference of the opening is but 4” seems feasible. Oddly enough my instructions with the new input seal referred to it as the cartridge but I assumed that was not the proper name.

Great, thanks for your help. I’m planning on starting a reseal on my gearbox in the next week or so and this was one question I had.