47-59 Worst paint job ever

[hogfarm]

I have been working on my 58 fleetside for about 2 years, got the frame done motor and transmission, as well as the 4 link in the rear. I took my sheet metal to the paint shop, for the repairs and paint. There were a couple patch panels needed.Well I got the cab back,it looked ok. so I set in on the frame and got glass installed.Went to put the doors on and they will not fit,and they will never fit unless the door post are moved. It upset me so I decided I need to start over. And told the guy I was coming to get the rest of my sheet metal. I had spent hours on the bed,and it was pretty straight, but not when I went to pick it up. Someone had backed in to the bed and put a big dent in the side. He told me that is the way I brought it to him. So after $5000.00 I have nothing. I don't know what to do, but decided to take the stroker motor out of the 58 and put it in my 54, just to run it. After all that work I don't even know if I want to start over , or just cut my loss and sell it

[mongocanfly]

Dang ....that sucks....

[dsraven]

did the doors fit before the paint gut got it? bad patch panel install?
man, that sucks. maybe put the parts someplace dry and hang on for a bit before doing anything. this may blow over and you could get your mojo back.
hang in there, once you leave it be for a while maybe you'll feel like starting back up.
did the shop weld in some hinge pillars or something and got them wrong so now the doors don't fit? whats up? got any pics?

[MiraclePieCo]

I once had a nearly identical experience with a fly-by-night painter. He did a shoddy paint job and held my truck hostage for $4500. I tried to sue but there were too many victims ahead of me; I'd never have gotten a cent of recompense. I had to have the truck repainted at my own expense.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

did the doors fit before the paint gut got it? bad patch panel install?
man, that sucks. maybe put the parts someplace dry and hang on for a bit before doing anything. this may blow over and you could get your mojo back.
hang in there, once you leave it be for a while maybe you'll feel like starting back up.
did the shop weld in some hinge pillars or something and got them wrong so now the doors don't fit? whats up? got any pics?

Agree with all this. Lets see some pics and maybe we can help if we see something. Maybe its as simple a the hinges got bent somehow?

[mick53]

I have had a couple of setbacks that cost a lot of money and time. Some I have to say were at least partially my fault. Most were depending on someone else. I seriously considered parking it for another 30 years. About 3 years ago I regrouped and decided to just do it myself. If I don't know how, I learn. If I don't have the tool I save up and buy it. I am now dedicated to my build and have put off my retirement to finance it. It has truly became a labor of love. I don't have a wife or kids and not much family. Being able to share my experiences with you folks is fun. I would suggest taking a deep breath and thinking about how cool you can make your truck and the joy it will bring you. It's the journey. Thank you for your time.

[mr48chev]

Dang, I thought you had that truck about as close to perfect as you could get it before sending it for finish body work and paint.

I'd have to say that the big and somewhat continuing issue with restoration or custom work on a vintage rig as a lot of production shops view it as sideline work to do when the big paying insurance jobs slow down. They take it on but shove it off to the side because they are doing fast money repair jobs that now days are quite often panel replacement, scuff and shoot rather than hours of block sanding and panel fitting.

I know Hogfarm's demand for perfection having taking probably as many photos of his t54 as any non family member has over the past few years. That truck is about as close to perfect as any truck around. It isn't flashy in that it doesn't have big oversize gaudy wheels and the black paint while as close to perfect and showing perfect body work rather hides in a field of brightly painted cars at an event but those in the know understand what they see. Shody work isn't going to cut it.

[Tempest67]

Take some time to look things over, and consider your options.

Too often I hear people say, "I should have never sold that car/truck", don't let that be you until you have had time to calm down and make a rational decision.

That my 2 cents

[hogfarm]

Well let me just say. the guy did a good job on the paint, he is a painter but not a body and fender man, the driver door lower hinge was rusted out so he replaced that. But the truck is ruff all over. I do enjoy my 54, and I will put the bigger motor in that truck,I need to take it out of the 58 anyway. Also I won't give up on the 58.just really bummed. I just need to do most of the body work my self. My wife works at a place where they build Drones, her job is the smoothing and sanding the body's before the final paint. She told me she could do the body work and it would be perfect. I will take some pictures this weekend, and see what you think

[dsraven]

hey if your wife is willing to help, take advantage. if you can get a buy in from the wife, and she is helping, go for it. she will be willing to go to next level because she has skin in the game. always good to keep a couples perspective and work together on a joint project. if it is a dual project, and she has some say, it will be good as long as she has a 1/2 say and some but in.

[1project2many]

TF trucks are really rough. Fit is horrible. I see many painted TF trucks that don't fit together well despite having shiny paint. These days there are very few adjustments in vehicles. Machines assemble cars very well and I don't believe bodywork involves check fit and adjust as much as it used to. Doors are welded on, fenders bolt into correct size holes, and it either works or it doesn't. I had my shop truck repaired and painted at a local body shop and they never adjusted the hood properly. GM designed that truck so the core support needs to be adjusted in order to get the hood latch right. The core support was resting on the aftermarket bumper which was also out of adjustment. They replaced the hood and both fenders but never bothered adjusting anything. But the paint looked great!

[joedoh]

I got a brand new set of hinges with the cab I bought and they suck, the bottom of the doors were sticking out 1/2" on one side and 3/4" the other, with the tops tight in the jamb. the leading edge of the door was sticking out too.

take your hinges off and tape up the door and jambs and stick it in the opening with some shims. if it fits without the hinges its the hinges.

[MARTINSR]

Never ever, EVER paint without trial fitting!

Brian

[hogfarm]

I got a few pictures, they are not very good. You might be able to see where the drivers door will never shut, the hinge post needs to be moved. the door needs to go forward and down, there is no room, hits the step.

[dsraven]

If the door is hitting the step, could it be the step was replaced and possibly not not in the right spot? If the step were taken out would the door be able to be adjusted? A step cut and move would possibly be easier than moving a door post, both work wise and paint wise.

[Trucker79]

Hog farm don't give up! It can be fixed. She's way to pretty to give up on. I have a 56 that I'm in the process of doing the body work on and I hate doing it because it's not cut and dry like engine or suspension work. I keep going because I don't want this to happen to me. It pisses me off it happend to you! I have friends I tell, if you do it yourself it'll be more gratifying in the end. Sorry to preach!��*♂️

[PDW HOTRODS]

Does it have the door rubber on? Will it close without the rubber? Can you adjust the front of the door out at all?

[hogfarm]

I guess I have just been venting. I will cut the step out, and start from there the door has no more adjustment and is to hi. so first things first. I just talked to my friend we are going to put the front clip and hood off, then swap the motors from my 54-58. I have not given up, there is not to much I can't do. But I don't like doing the body work that is why I paid someone to do It, I don't have unlimited funds, so it does piss me off that I have to fix it myself. Once I get the truck out of the shed I will get better pictures

[mr48chev]

I've got a 12 ton porta Power that I can loan you if you have someone who knows how to use it right.

I remember that after I got in that fender bender in Texas my cab was tweaked and the passenger door didn't fit. A buddy of mine got it fixed for me then.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

I guess I have just been venting. I will cut the step out, and start from there the door has no more adjustment and is to hi. so first things first. I just talked to my friend we are going to put the front clip and hood off, then swap the motors from my 54-58. I have not given up, there is not to much I can't do. But I don't like doing the body work that is why I paid someone to do It, I don't have unlimited funds, so it does piss me off that I have to fix it myself. Once I get the truck out of the shed I will get better pictures

Body work doesn't cost that much to do if you don't pay yourself. I'm way too picky to pay someone else. If I do pay someone it usually ends up being "a good start".

[PDW HOTRODS]

I would try moving the lower hinge before cutting out the step, unless you are sure that is the problem. With the front clip off it would be easier. You might be able to open up the bolt holes a little to get a little more adjustment. If the hinge pocket was worked on it could be off just a little and could throw off the door more. Also I have seen people forget about the bolt inside inside the hinge pocket when adjusting.

[dsraven]

good point PDW, I was just gonna mention that hidden bolt too.
hogfarm, does the door rub the step or the rocker lip? was the hinge pillar or step/rocker replaced?
it is best to adjust the door to the cab without the front clip installed and without the door latch installed on the pillar (that way the door can swing closed without being drawn into a final position by the latch). get the door to fit the cab if possible and then install the front clip and adjust it to fit the cab and door. sometimes shims are needed under the rad support or the front of the cab to get the gaps and fitment right. the cab needs to be parallel to the frame (there is a dimension for this in the assembly manual) ensure the cab and rad support mounts are also in good shape before you start. there is a great video out there on doing the gaps on a 55-59. it shows how to use the driver's side front cab bolt as a pivot point to get the cab and clip lined up right so they are in the same parallel line.
anyway, sorry to hear about the body shop issues. never good. hopefully you can get it right without more painting. did the shop test fit anything before blowing paint on it?
here are few links for you to peruse if you get time and wanna see specs or how others have done it. hope it helps.

assembly manual (good to download a copy to save)

https://www.trifive.com/d1/55-59Assy.pdf

old car manuals project site, has a few body dimensions etc that come in handy. maybe bookmark the site

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...esto/index.htm

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1304...it-sheetmetal/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1205...-door-install/

here is that video on adjusting gaps and moving the cab
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgUwd9PdWiA

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by dsraven

good point PDW, I was just gonna mention that hidden bolt too.
hogfarm, does the door rub the step or the rocker lip? was the hinge pillar or step/rocker replaced?
it is best to adjust the door to the cab without the front clip installed and without the door latch installed on the pillar (that way the door can swing closed without being drawn into a final position by the latch). get the door to fit the cab if possible and then install the front clip and adjust it to fit the cab and door. sometimes shims are needed under the rad support or the front of the cab to get the gaps and fitment right. the cab needs to be parallel to the frame (there is a dimension for this in the assembly manual) ensure the cab and rad support mounts are also in good shape before you start. there is a great video out there on doing the gaps on a 55-59. it shows how to use the driver's side front cab bolt as a pivot point to get the cab and clip lined up right so they are in the same parallel line.
anyway, sorry to hear about the body shop issues. never good. hopefully you can get it right without more painting. did the shop test fit anything before blowing paint on it?
here are few links for you to peruse if you get time and wanna see specs or how others have done it. hope it helps.

assembly manual (good to download a copy to save)

https://www.trifive.com/d1/55-59Assy.pdf

old car manuals project site, has a few body dimensions etc that come in handy. maybe bookmark the site

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...esto/index.htm

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1304...it-sheetmetal/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1205...-door-install/

here is that video on adjusting gaps and moving the cab
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgUwd9PdWiA

First off thanks for all the help.
Yes the hinge pockets were rusted so he replaced them,the door does hit the step,and there is no room to move door up. I plan on moving the truck into my shop and remove the hood and front clip. The sad part is the painter guy told me he did test fit everything, and was all good, so I just assumed he was right. I just went ahead putting the parts together without checking myself,then I discovered he was wrong. I think I know what to do,but the cab will need to be repainted

[dsraven]

if the door body lines line up well maybe you can simply slice the step on each end and drop it to the correct height. use some angle on the back side to support it and assist with welding it back in. that way your paint repair will be less. if it is only a little drop you could just cut the front and rear ends and the step will then taper from the inside edge of the step out to the rocker. if it is a significant drop change required then possibly you would need to cut the whole actual step surface on 3 sides so the angle isn't noticeable. a bit of taper is actually ok because the water would drain easier. the lower hinge can always be slotted larger as required to make the door fit. the upper should be fine because it wasn't changed,b correct?

[dsraven]

of course, weld the step back in after you have the door adjusted to fit.