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08-23-2010, 07:22 AM | #1 |
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Internal Alternator Wiring
I have a gutted 72 Blazer with a internal regulator type alternator. None of the old harness is there except for the headlights. Battery is in the back with a disconnect switch.
I have 2 electric fans, horn, gage lights and HEI ignition. My question is, when wiring the alternator I put the #2 (red) terminal to the 12volt post on the back with a jumper wire. What do I do with the #1 terminal. I read in the FAQ that this should go to the brown wire into the dash for resistance, so the alt knows what to do.. ? All that wiring is gone.
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08-23-2010, 10:26 AM | #2 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Just wire it like the bottom diagram in the link . Since you don't have the light then you will need the resistor. It can be 10 ohm to 300 ohm.
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Alte...onversions.htm
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08-23-2010, 11:55 AM | #3 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Thanks VetteVet.
Im gonna get a 10 ohm resistor at radio shack and solder it in line to a wire that goes to the ign on/ off switch. The cold side. Are resistors one way? Like a diode? If so witch direction does it go? Also do i need to heatsink the resistor when soldering? Its been a long time since high school electronics class.
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08-23-2010, 12:15 PM | #4 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Ok, i just googled how to solder a resistor and there is no special requirements.
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08-23-2010, 03:34 PM | #5 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Get a 75 ohm resistor about 3 watt and if you decide to get a cs style later you won't have to change the resistor, see this----http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zman//Electronics/Alternator01.htm
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08-23-2010, 04:34 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Quote:
Is a 75ohm 3watt resistor one of those big rectangle ones?
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08-24-2010, 12:08 PM | #7 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I have a 72 chev and just installed a 94 amp alt, I have the factory guage in my dash, do i need to add the resistor? I was under the impression that the brown wire has the resistance in it.. Thanks!
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08-24-2010, 01:00 PM | #8 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
The stock factory harnesses had the resistance in the brown wire for the gauge cluster,it was about 10 ohms which equals the idiot light resistance. I would be sure and read the resistance on the brown wire to be sure because if it has no resistance it could burn out the diodes in the internal alternator. I think you can check the brown wire between the key switch and the external regulator. I have the idiot light dash in my truck so I don't know for sure where the resistance was placed. I'll try to find the wiring diagram and post it.
If it is the CS style then you definitely need the resistor because they require at least 35 ohms. I have read that some of the newer styles don't need the resistor because it is built into the alternator.I'm sure that would be spelled out in the installation instructions.
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08-24-2010, 01:33 PM | #9 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Here is a three piece diagram that shows the brown wire's path from the key switch to the external voltage regulator. The middle one shows the brown wire going to the fuse panel and through the firewall plug. The last one shows the brown wire to the external regulator and the simple way to convert to an internal regulated alternator.
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08-24-2010, 01:48 PM | #10 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
On SI type alternators, the resistor/bulb/diode is not needed to protect the alternator from damage. It is needed to prevent the alternator from feeding power back into the ignition circuit when you turn off the switch.
One of the most frequent complaints I used to see on message boards was "I just changed over to an internally regulated alternator and now I can't shut off my engine even if I disconnect the battery". As already pointed out, at least some of the CS alternators do need a certain minimum resistance in the external circuit in order to avoid damaging them. Ray |
08-24-2010, 02:12 PM | #11 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
They come in all shapes and sizes. The link I posted shows a 330 ohm .5 watt resistor so the ohms and watts are variable depending on who is doing the conversion. I read mine from the painless site.
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12-21-2010, 05:46 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I found this posted over at painlessperformance.com
Quote:
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12-21-2010, 05:55 PM | #13 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Todd suggests cutting the blue and brown and then connecting them together.
Connect blue to #1, and then connecting a jumper from the 'BAT' terminal to #2. I will most likely be doing it like this: However; I probably won't cut the wires, but rather, use jumpers using connectors like this: . No matter how one does it, the end result is the same; Connect the Red (hot) lead to terminal #2, and connect the Brown lead to terminal #1.
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12-21-2010, 08:25 PM | #14 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I'm guessing the silver stripe is the stripe sparkman was talking about.
.
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12-21-2010, 09:07 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Quote:
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02-15-2013, 12:49 PM | #16 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I'm a bit confused. Diagrams indicate to jumper white(2) and red(3) and blue(f) and brown(4) at the old external voltage regulator. I jumpered like vettevet using the old bus to the external reg joining terminals 2 and 3 and F with 4, instead of jumpering 2 with 4 and F with 3 as Vettevet did. Note, my truck fires up and seems to be charging, but the alternator is getting very hot. Did I do something wrong? Which terminals a the voltage reg should I jumper?
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02-15-2013, 01:16 PM | #17 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I'm a bit confused. Diagrams indicate to jumper white(2) and red(3) and blue(F) and brown(4) at the old external voltage regulator. I jumpered like vettevet using the old bus to the external reg joining terminals 2 and 3 and F with 4, instead of jumpering 2 with 4 and F with 3 as Vettevet did. Note, my truck fires up and seems to be charging, but the alternator is getting very hot. Did I do something wrong? Which terminals a the voltage reg should I jumper?
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02-15-2013, 01:58 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Quote:
What you have done by jumping the red wire with the white wire (2 and 3), and brown and blue, (F and 4), is to send a signal to the no.1 sensing terminal on the alternator that the system voltage is low and it has thrown the alternator into full output mode which will make it get very hot. Ir you have a voltmeter you can confirm this by connecting it to the large output post on the alternator and you may read 16 to 18 volts instead of 14.5 volts. Study the two diagrams below and you will see that they are the same as far as the wiring . The confusion may come from the colors and numbering. The end result is that the brown wire on the voltage regulator must go to the no.1 terminal on the new internally regulated alternator and the red power wire on the regulator must go to the no.2 terminal on the internally regulated alternator. It would appear that the diagram posted by LostMy65 has labeled the colors wrong but the wires go to the right place. I have seen that diagram before and I think it was for a Buick car which might explain the wire color difference. Here is my MyLost65' diagram. here is my jumpered diagram from an above post. and here is the clean way to do it and if you compare all three then you can see that the end result is the same in each one.
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02-15-2013, 02:25 PM | #19 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Thanks, think I will un-tape the wiring harness to ensure where each one goes. Thanks for the quick response, really want to get this truck on the road.
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02-18-2013, 07:38 PM | #20 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Good info
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01-22-2014, 03:28 AM | #21 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
i will apologise before i explain my problem. I have been reading how to fit the 10si alternator, on here and the net and i am totally confused, prehaps its me.
i have an amp meter on the dash and no idiot light just me, The truck is a k1500 1971. do i change everything as Vettevets diagram. do i need a resistor, or idiot light? if i wanted to fit a light to the dash what would i need to take the wires from. Sorry but i am totally confused. I am used to European wiring . |
01-22-2014, 09:53 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
Quote:
Let me give you a little bit of advice. If you're going to get a SI alternator, get the 12 SI used on the late 80s vehicles. It is more reliable and it puts out more amperage than the 10 SI at idle and above. On a stock truck the 10 SI would do the job but the 12 is better and The CS 130 or CS 144 is better yet. They all hook up about the same way but the CS style requires a larger resistor than the 10 or 12 SI units. If you look at the first diagram I posted near the top is the key switch and looking at the wiring, the fourth wire down from the top is a brown/white stripe wire. This is the exciter wire for the alternator and it ends up at the R terminal on the stock externally regulated alternator. In your case this wire runs from the key switch, down to the firewall block on the inside of the cab, behind the fuse panel. It goes through the firewall and comes out the other side as a 16 gauge brown wire, and continues on to the external regulator, by the radiator support, where it connects to the no. 4 terminal on the regulator. If you had the idiot light, it would go from the key switch to the dash cluster, into the charging light, and then back out of the cluster, and down to the firewall block, and then out to the external regulator. This diagram shows the path and it shows the idiot light and the resistor wire running in parallel to the no. 4 terminal on the ER. I am not sure if both circuits are included on all trucks or if the gauge cluster just has the resistor wire, and the idiot light just has the light circuit. I have the idiot light in my truck but I have not looked at it to see if it has both. In the first post I made above in the diagram it shows how to jump the brown wire with the white wire to by pass the external regulator . to get the brown wire to the R terminal using the white wire as an extension of the brown wire. It means jumping the no. 4 to the no. 2 on the regulator plug. The same thing is done with the 12 gauge red wire on terminal 3 and the blue wire on terminal 1 of the regulator plug. This gets battery voltage carried on the red wire to the alternator by extending the red wire with the blue wire to provide charging current to the alternator fields so it can provide current for charging the battery and supplying power to the truck components. Here is what the circuit looks like with the regulator bypassed. The brown and red wires are run straight to the alternator. This is the 12 SI alternator with the wires connected to their respective terminals. The 10 SI would be the same. The CS style is different enough to need a thread of it's own but the connections are very similar. you will have to adapt the brown(white) wire and the blue(red) wire connection to the SI alternator so that the brown wire goes to the no.1 terminal and the blue wire goes to the no.2 connector because the plugs are different. Take some time and study the whole thread and look closely at the diagrams. If you are still confused then post back and we'll get it solved for you.
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05-09-2014, 12:05 PM | #23 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
I just performed a 4ga upgrade on a 69 Camaro but the same thing applies. If you have a charge light, no resistor on the brown wire is needed-the light bulb in the dash is itself the resistance circuit. If using a volt gauge, use a resistor or a 1A diode inline on the brown lead. The blue lead at the alternator won't be needed and the brown wire ties in with what will be either brown, black or white depending on your alt pigtail. Then on an SI you can loop the larger red lead to the charge post but you'll need to upgrade the main charge lead going to the battery too. I opt for a 4ga charge lead but I usually build for overkill on charging systems.
Next, at the voltage regulator plugin on the harness side, make a jumper connecting the blue and brown leads together-the two center leads can be capped off as they won't be needed. Now, using then later style SI alt., Napa makes an adapter for a clean plugin conversion. I opted to go further on this with a CS alternator since we went serpentine but hopefully that gives you some help. The madelectrical.com site explains this method of conversion a bit better and why. |
05-10-2014, 01:04 AM | #24 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
ok I am going to jump in here cause I got a Q? I am doing the serp belt 140 amp 4 wire setup off a 94 truck, and I am adding factory gauges and scraping dummy lights. Now I read on gmc pauls site how to rewire your cluster plug from lights to gauges but it says you have to run the wires for the amp gauge, one wire from alternator and one from battery. Should I be running the "L" wire off the new alternator to the gauge cluster with a resistor inline or do I still run it thru the factory wiring? If I run the wiring the way gmc pauls site shows then what is the alternator wired to?
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05-10-2014, 10:03 AM | #25 |
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Re: Internal Alternator Wiring
the brown wire from the voltage regulator at the cluster plug is there but gmc pauls site says you don't use it, but if I put a resistor on it then it should be correct........right? And the other side of the meter shouldn't have to go to the batt I should be able to pick up any 12v constant like off the horn relay or something under the dash?
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