Lowering Confusion - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dads72 · 03-25-2003, 08:48 PM

Would like to lower a 72 LWB 2" in front and 4" rear. On my truck that would result in approx. 30" heighth front and rear. Does that sound correct?
Have done a search and have read http://www.classicperform.com/goingdown6772.htm
I have a headache.
Springs? Spindles (hope not - they're expensive)? Blocks? Cut coils?
New shocks? Relocated or not? etc. etc.
The Moog replacement parts for the front suspension will run approx. $500.
That doesn't leave much room in my budget for lowering parts.
Any definitive guidance would be appreciated.
Many thanks.

sgtjed · 03-26-2003, 04:37 AM

dunno about the lowering stuff but 500 bucks to rebuild? why dont ya get a kit like this alot cheaper?

http://www.classicperform.com/produc...build-Kits.htm

CustomChevy · 03-27-2003, 01:35 PM

whatever you do, do not sacrifice proper rebuild needs for lowering needs, that will hurt you. it's easier to be able to do lowering during a front end rebuild, that's for sure, but if you can only do one thing at a time, so be it. take your time, don't get in a rush.

lowering has choices. if you are going to drop the front by 2" , then you can use shorter coils (purchased new), or even cut one coil off of original spring. to be on the safe side, get an alignment check after lowering the front, camber can change even after a small drop.

another choice for the front is a drop spindle, very nice, also very expensive. requires no alignment.

a third option for the front is the dropped lower a-arm. basically, the spring pocket is lowered to give you a 2" drop. also, costs more.

as for the back(coil-spring rear, right?), 4 inches is considerable for a spring, it would be best to buy shortened springs becasue the spring rate will be adjusted to compensate for the shortened coil. for this drop you will also need to get shorter shocks as well. gotta compensate for lack of travel in shock.

as a more expensive option, you can also get a coil-over set-up for your trailering arms and also for the front as well. vey nice, also adjustable height. more work, more money, but very nice.

finally, you can also get air bags. fully adjustable height, but can be very expensive.

hope this helps.

outlaw · 03-27-2003, 02:39 PM

I would put spindles on the front to keep the rest of the front-end at the factory angles, the back not sure but ever you do do not cut the springs due to the fact that heat will weaken the springs and start to sag

03-25-2003, 08:48 PM	#1
Dads72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 427	Lowering Confusion Would like to lower a 72 LWB 2" in front and 4" rear. On my truck that would result in approx. 30" heighth front and rear. Does that sound correct? Have done a search and have read http://www.classicperform.com/goingdown6772.htm I have a headache. Springs? Spindles (hope not - they're expensive)? Blocks? Cut coils? New shocks? Relocated or not? etc. etc. The Moog replacement parts for the front suspension will run approx. $500. That doesn't leave much room in my budget for lowering parts. Any definitive guidance would be appreciated. Many thanks.

03-26-2003, 04:37 AM	#2
sgtjed What if? Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Choctaw,Oklahoma Posts: 649	dunno about the lowering stuff but 500 bucks to rebuild? why dont ya get a kit like this alot cheaper? http://www.classicperform.com/produc...build-Kits.htm __________________ 2002 red extended cab Silverado 2002 Wheatland yellow Suburban

03-27-2003, 01:35 PM	#3
CustomChevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 462	whatever you do, do not sacrifice proper rebuild needs for lowering needs, that will hurt you. it's easier to be able to do lowering during a front end rebuild, that's for sure, but if you can only do one thing at a time, so be it. take your time, don't get in a rush. lowering has choices. if you are going to drop the front by 2" , then you can use shorter coils (purchased new), or even cut one coil off of original spring. to be on the safe side, get an alignment check after lowering the front, camber can change even after a small drop. another choice for the front is a drop spindle, very nice, also very expensive. requires no alignment. a third option for the front is the dropped lower a-arm. basically, the spring pocket is lowered to give you a 2" drop. also, costs more. as for the back(coil-spring rear, right?), 4 inches is considerable for a spring, it would be best to buy shortened springs becasue the spring rate will be adjusted to compensate for the shortened coil. for this drop you will also need to get shorter shocks as well. gotta compensate for lack of travel in shock. as a more expensive option, you can also get a coil-over set-up for your trailering arms and also for the front as well. vey nice, also adjustable height. more work, more money, but very nice. finally, you can also get air bags. fully adjustable height, but can be very expensive. hope this helps.

03-27-2003, 02:39 PM	#4
outlaw Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Leesville, Louisiana Posts: 80	I would put spindles on the front to keep the rest of the front-end at the factory angles, the back not sure but ever you do do not cut the springs due to the fact that heat will weaken the springs and start to sag



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