Fastfreddys 454ss

[fredscarryall]

Going to order a 10 pt roll cage from s&w. I going to get the wrap around dash style. I think it looks a lot better. The only bars I won’t put in are the ones that go thru the Back window to the bed and the door side bars.

[fredscarryall]

Don’t like the velour seats and door panels. Since I already have my factory seats in storage. I going to remove the original door panels and store them also. I saw a picture of manual door panels a while ago and bought a set off ebay.

[fredscarryall]

I got board and did a renduring of what I going to do. Drawings kinda suck, but you get what I’m going. My uphostery shop is out about a month. So they will be done in a while. Going to wrap both in red vinyl with exposed stitch and maroon inserts

[fredscarryall]

Cool item I came across. Dash insert sticker kits by RVINYL. They come in about 20 different colors. Cost $49.95. Make sure you wipes down contact areas with alcohol before applying and they will stick really good.Says will only fit 92-94. But will fit 1988 to 1994. Just won’t be able to use a couple pieces depending on year. Also available for suburban,Yukon and tahoes

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by fredscarryall

Going to order a 10 pt roll cage from s&w. I going to get the wrap around dash style. I think it looks a lot better. The only bars I won’t put in are the ones that go thru the Back window to the bed and the door side bars.

What are the benefits here? Why is this necessary especially after removing 4 of the bars that maintain the integrity of the set-up?

Rear bars (to the rear portion of the frame) help the structure. Door side bars? Same thing. Any bars in the vicinity of your noggin w/o a helmet? Not a good idea. I've seen roll bars form fitted to the interior sheet metal (as in nearly touching the bare steel on early trucks) that might work but a cage like that in a street vehicle w/full interior doesn't seem worthy especially because you don't have protection for your head.

[fredscarryall]

I thought out some of your points. I think I am going to take the back slider window out and put it in storage. Then replace it with a solid tinted Lexan and cut two holes for the bars that go in the bed. With a nice rubber gasket around the window and bars the go to the bed.Then I will do swing out side bars. I know they are not as strong as solid welded.but since I’m in a wheelchair I have to be able to transfer in. You have to admit though 4 attachment points will make the integrity of the truck stronger then stock.As far as my head bouncing around and hitting my head on a bar. I will be wearing a seat belt and my bars will be thick padded. Thousands of people have a full interior with a cage. May be a little less room, but if done right there is enough room. It’s not going to be a full on drag race or road corse truck

[fredscarryall]

Cut the tabs off my spindle. If you aren’t using a band saw. Make sure you use a 6” cut off wheel on your hand grinder. 4 1/2 disc is too small.

[fredscarryall]

Mock up

[fredscarryall]

Before and after. Turns out, all I had to do to my wheel hub bore to fit was sand off the powder coat with a drum sander. took about 5 minutes. So far 3 hours into one side. The other side should only take 2 because I know exactly where to cut. Had to order 14x 1.5 lug nuts. Won’t be here till Friday night. So looks like I won’t be able to see how low it goes and how it stops and rides till next week. I finally found end caps for my lug nuts

[fredscarryall]

For some reason when Baer brakes redrilled my hubs to 5 on 4.5. They uses the oddest size, a 14x2.0 metric stud. They sure make it tuff using that size. It really limits you options. Unfortunately because the lug nut holes in the rim are small, they don’t make a lug nut to fit. Looks like I’m going to drill out my 12mm lug nuts and retap them to 14x2.0. Only have to do 10. Should take a couple hours. Not so bad if that’s the worst thing to happen with a front brake conversion