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08-28-2020, 04:45 PM | #1 |
Roto Reuter thats the name...
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Darien, NY
Posts: 1,847
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Re: Alternator dilema
I had no idea about this. I just completed my first LS swap with a Gen III 5.3L LM7. I noticed the alternator output at around 13.7 V and wondered, what the heck? I'm going to have to go back and search out some of these threads. By the way... what is the DR44g alternator? As far as I know there are two styles, large case and small case. Mine is the large case alt.
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~ Dan My 70 K10 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=782232 My 71 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651394 1970 SWB Fleet K10 4X4, 5.3L LM7, 4L60E, Dakota Digital RTX, Vintage Air, Ididit tilt 1971 SWB Fleet C10 - Original SWB Arizona truck, new custom restoration project "Kick out your motor and drive while you're still alive - kick it out!" - Heart 1977 |
08-28-2020, 05:14 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Manchester, CT
Posts: 429
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Re: Alternator dilema
Don't think you are alone with this! I think there are a lot of tinkerers like us that don't fully "know" their way around the LS charging system. The Dr44 and DR44g replaced the AD244 (large body) alternators I guess around late 2004-2005 period. You'll have to do some research on the why's of the change, along with the voltage regulator control being controlled by various modules and pulse width modulation. I've spent much of the day today reading posts on this site, going back as far as 2010. This seems to be one of the little known facts about the LS swaps. Back in 2015, when I put my truck together, I thought I had it pretty well figured out. Here it is 5 yrs. later and I'm Still learning!!
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08-29-2020, 03:53 AM | #3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,712
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Re: Alternator dilema
Quote:
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Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746 |
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08-30-2020, 12:21 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Independence Mo
Posts: 4,118
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Re: Alternator dilema
The GBCM was introduced on trucks in 2005 as a way to increase fuel economy by not having the alternator charging at full potential all the time. Prior to that, there were just two wires going from the alternator to the PCM, and the PCM controlled the charging. I have in the past had a 2006 swap programmed like 2004 and wired it as a 2004 also and it worked perfectly, although that did require a 2004 TAC module too since they have to be matched to the tune. However, it has since been figured out that you can just leave the GBCM on the battery cable and wire it accordingly, but without the wire going to the BCM and it will work. Here's a thread on the topic. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...le-gbcm-2.html
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
08-30-2020, 01:19 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Manchester, CT
Posts: 429
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Re: Alternator dilema
First off, thanks Nova, the info was helpful. So, because I'm a hoarder of sorts, I still have the original harness from my engine package. I checked it, and the GBCM pigtail is still there, but no module. So I got to thinking, because I'm gonna put an '04 regulator into the '05 alt., why can't I wire it like the old days and CS series alts. I'm thinking that the exciter feed from the PCM is resisted (reading 10vdc at the pin)not B+, why couldn't I just attach what was the duty cycle wire from the PCM, to the B+ post on the alt. to sense voltage load, and let the regulator do its' thing when the demand is needed(wire from the alt. pigtail, not the PCM), not just achieve a constant output, no matter what. Any thoughts?
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10-18-2021, 07:00 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 46
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Re: Alternator dilema
In the same boat with my swap: 09' Silverado Gen 4 4.8 donor motor and trans into 72' C20.
I am planning to use the GBCM and have it in place on the negative cable. Computer and wiring are all from the donor truck and modified as needed. I thought I had it figured out after reading the tri-five thread about using a PWM controller to alter the signal to the alternator. I picked one up for $17 figuring it wouldn't be the end of the world if not needed. Reading this thread and Nova's reply makes me think that the PWM gadget isn't needed now.. In the ls1tech link I read this from Hart Rod: 2 wires to the alternator, 2 wires to the battery, 2 wires to ground, 1 wire to serial data port - BOOM!!, it works!!!! Not too sure where that serial data port wire needs to be connected? |
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