replacing radiator after meltdown

[BigRedSled1985]

Well, after over a year, i am trying to get the big red sled back up and running, went out and checked the damages for a major roadside meltdown after the wife drove the truck with the fan belt off for two mile and the radiator split wide open.

At the time, i feared the truck engine had busted/cracked due to a lot of smoke and a report of flames from the roadside when the wife stopped and had a fire truck hose it down, but now after getting back in there and tearing a few things apart, it seems the engine might be fine. when i put a belt on it, just the crank/water pump/alt belt alone, and cranked it up after checking fuel/oil/and putting water into the radiator (which promptly ran out of three large cracks/holes in the sides of the radiator, but i knew that was a goner) it cranked up with a little splash of gas into the carb and ran okay.

i ran it for about 30 sec got some smoke off the pass side of the motor but it seems it is left over from the meltdown, maybe even at the most a leak of oil out of the valve cover which can be remedied with a new gasket.

sooooooo... all of that to ask these questions...

1. when replacing, what radiator to go with? i am looking for foremost CHEAP because i have to be frugal getting this running again, but i do not run A/C oin this truck, i have an aftermarket trans cooler bolted in front of the radiator bypassing the origianl in-radiator system completely, and want to make sure this truck stays cool... any other year truck's radiator that could swap out that has more rows/better cooling?

2. no noises from the engine (other than the sounds of a tired motor), and the oil is not milky or watery, any other things to look for as to signs of motor damage from the overheat? as stated, from when the belt went off to stopping and turning off motor was about two miles in July 2009, not a very hot day but steam filled the air from the radiator popping and fluid squirted everywhere on the roadside (as per wife's statement)

3. water pump spins (filled empty radiator with only garden hose and when engine turned back off greenish water ran from leaking holes, so i know pump was pushing water into motor and out into radiator with coolant in it) how can i tell if pump has issues?

4. any flushing chemicals recommended for motor or cooling system after new radiator found to remove yuck fluids or treat any other issues with burned oil or fluids? just want to be safe (trying to salvage motor part of this equation).

thanks in advance for reading this and any assistance!

shaun

[Restrorob]

I don't think you can beat this place for a new replacement, I've bought four from them for different vehicles without any issues....

http://www.radiatorbarn.com/

[PRattenbury]

Maybe you could go to a junkyard and get a radiator for as cheap as possible. If there's anything else that's broken or ruined that's critical to running the engine, fix those things, too.Then start it up and run it a bit to see how it does. If all seems good, take it for a ride. Bring your phone. Note any problems and decide if they're worth fixing or not. Go from there.

[LONGHAIR]

I am generally opposed to junkyard radiators. You may very well be getting someone elses problems. A clogged radiator could get you right back into the same thing you have now. It's best to start with a good clean/new unit.

About the only thing that can "go bad" about a water pump is that the seal can get damaged during the over-heat, so it could leak. If it holds water, you are good to go.

[1BadSS]

www.advanceautoparts.com, The biggest baddest radiator they have with my discount is $149 and change.

[PRattenbury]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I am generally opposed to junkyard radiators. You may very well be getting someone elses problems. A clogged radiator could get you right back into the same thing you have now. It's best to start with a good clean/new unit.

About the only thing that can "go bad" about a water pump is that the seal can get damaged during the over-heat, so it could leak. If it holds water, you are good to go.

A junkyard radiator is a calculated risk. Instead of throwing $100 or more into a vehicle that may be NFG you throw 40 or 50 bucks at it. If the truck turns out to be unworthy of any further effort, you're out less money. If it is worth it, maybe you get 6 months or a year out of the radiator before you gotta spend the bigger bucks to do a primo job on the cooling system. Bet hey, just one guy's opinion...

[jitteryguy]

after a explode'n fan misshap, my girlfreind got a radiator at O'Rielly's for mine yesterday, 454 w/AC and auto trans, its the big one. $169.00 . if ya go the junk yard route try to find a CFC truck, it was probably run'n fine when it hit the yard !

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by PRattenbury

A junkyard radiator is a calculated risk. Instead of throwing $100 or more into a vehicle that may be NFG you throw 40 or 50 bucks at it. If the truck turns out to be unworthy of any further effort, you're out less money. If it is worth it, maybe you get 6 months or a year out of the radiator before you gotta spend the bigger bucks to do a primo job on the cooling system. Bet hey, just one guy's opinion...

And if you get a clogged/slow flowing radiator from the junk yard, install it and have the same over-heating problem? You blame the rest of the truck, thinking that there is something else wrong. This may make you abandon a perfectly good vehicle because of what was just a bad radiator.

[BigBlocksRule]

If it got that hot, chances are it may have cooked the rings.

[BigRedSled1985]

thanks for the info/advice, i felt the same way about the junkyard radiators (i.e. seemed the cheapest way to just "check things out" but leary of getting other issues with it) but the CFC idea may be a good way to get a vehicle that was sound upon arrival. I was also thinking of looking for something towed in for a nice right or left side t-bone that did not have damage to the front so i know it was running when it got creamed, and hoepfully is still in possesion of a good radiator. I am still unsure if other year-model radiators will fit mine, does anyone know where i can cross-reference the radiators to see if they fit the same as mine, in case i run across a radiator iin another year c-10 (or even another model that may be better than the one i had i.e. more rows more HD unit) that would fit my truck?

BigBlocksRule, besides the usual clouds of oily smoke that i believe would follow a cooked ring issue, anything else to look for that would show me i might have that problem? i don't have compression equipment to check that, but obviously could "loan-a-tool" from somewhere to check if that would show it.

thanks again for the info so far and for any additional help coming!

shaun

[BigBlocksRule]

Compression test will be the main way to test, may actually find one for loan at O'Reilley's or Autozone.
Keep in mind that the temp gauge sender is in the head, the hottest place possible.
I agree with your plan, try a "probably good" rad and see how it goes before you drop coin on a new one.

[BigRedSled1985]

thanks!

[tucsonjwt]

When my big block radiator went out a couple years ago I searched online and got a copper/brass radiator by Ready Rad and it seems to be fine. There are some sites where you can order online and have it delivered to your door, or pick up from a local distributor at a discount. I think I paid about $145 for the radiator, plus I got about $40 for my old radiator at the scrapyard. I would not buy an aluminum/plastic radiator for these old trucks. I had an aluminum radiator in my 63 Vette from the factory, but I think that was better constructed than the cheap aftermarket ones. Of course, for $150 or so I guess you can just replace them when they leak. I also used copper/brass heater core rather than aluminum.

[BigRedSled1985]

not to be too delayed on this but bringing an old thread back from the dead- i have a new radiator in the truck now. Got a great deal on a brand new radiator from Adv Auto with some discount codes form here and online other places, got a $150 radiator for 79.99!! went and picked it up, got it into the Big Red Sled, and ran it after a few minutes of jumping the battery/starting fluid/etc... she runs!! the motor runs pretty smooth for being dead TWO YEARS AGAIN!! but despite bad gas and such the motor seems pretty good.

Now... i need to figure out how to sell it. Gonna go ahead and let someone get a good deal on it since the trans is rebuilt, the radiator is brand new the power steering pump is brand new, the tires and such are pretty new, and other than a leak out the pass side engine back with a trickle of radiator fluid (head gasket is my thoughts) overall she runs and moves and seems about 95% of her before self.

What do i need to do to legally/responsibly advertise this truck and sell it? any advice on how to disclose the previous issues without just ruining my chances of selling it? i think someone who knows basics of a small block Chevy will have a easy one day gasket swap and be done, but my heart is simply not in this truck anymore and a nice quick sale would be best for me.

thanks in advance for any help, and i also plan to post in WIW section, just figured i could ask with the above info included here to get a better judge of the truck from those who read.

shaun