Trouble removing upper control arms, seized onto studs

[70StepsideC10]

I have done a lot of searching on the forum but haven't come across anyone else with the same issue. I will be replacing the upper control arm shafts and bushings, but am having a really hard time getting them off the truck. I was able to get the nuts off the studs no problem, but the shafts are seized on the studs after 50 years. I have tried PB Blaster, prying, heat, hammering, air chisel behind the shaft and not having much luck. I was able to work one set of shims out on the drivers side and used a tie rod puller to free the shaft on that one stud, but can't get the other shims out on the drivers side to do the same. I still have the passenger side to do as well!! This can't be that difficult. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easier way to get the upper control arms off when they are seized onto the studs?

[Greasey Harley]

I have had good luck removing seized fasteners by heating with a propane torch 'til its dull red, then dropping rapid tap on the bolt.
at first it will smoke , just keep dripping it on the threads, till it starts to "suck in". once that happens, keep adding more.
Let it cool completely before you try to remove it. Rapid-Tap has a high smoke point and penetrates well.

[kwmech]

pry bar between the frame rail and the shaft.... work it off. Keep the shims in order

[Basketcase889]

Originally Posted by 70StepsideC10

I have done a lot of searching on the forum but haven't come across anyone else with the same issue. I will be replacing the upper control arm shafts and bushings, but am having a really hard time getting them off the truck. I was able to get the nuts off the studs no problem, but the shafts are seized on the studs after 50 years. I have tried PB Blaster, prying, heat, hammering, air chisel behind the shaft and not having much luck. I was able to work one set of shims out on the drivers side and used a tie rod puller to free the shaft on that one stud, but can't get the other shims out on the drivers side to do the same. I still have the passenger side to do as well!! This can't be that difficult. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easier way to get the upper control arms off when they are seized onto the studs?

I haven't attempted mine on my newest C10... but I feel your pain for these trucks in Ontario and the rust they see

[70StepsideC10]

Thanks all for the replies. Sorry for the slow response, things have been busy lately and I haven't been on here for a bit. I was being a little too shy with the torch at first, I put some more heat to it and was able to pry the shaft off.

Originally Posted by Basketcase889

I haven't attempted mine on my newest C10... but I feel your pain for these trucks in Ontario and the rust they see

Fortunately my truck isn't too bad, there's been a few stuck fasteners but there definitely is some built up rust and corrosion in the front suspension. But it's all part of the fun!

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

I have had good luck removing seized fasteners by heating with a propane torch 'til its dull red, then dropping rapid tap on the bolt.
at first it will smoke , just keep dripping it on the threads, till it starts to "suck in". once that happens, keep adding more.
Let it cool completely before you try to remove it. Rapid-Tap has a high smoke point and penetrates well.

That's a great tip, I will have to get some Rapid Tap and try that out sometime!

[toolboxchev]

I have used this trick on old rusted farm equipment with great success.

Oxy ACT Torch, Heat the control arm shaft till red, stand back and spray with garden hose. Repeat 3 times, when the cold water hits the rusted steel it blows apart the rust/corrosion holding the two together.

Be sure that you are not heating the stud in the frame of the truck. I have done this with Ball Joints and other 3 pin hitches on 40-80 years tractors.

It will work, again, careful where you apply the heat. For smaller stuff I use a propane torch head attached to a green camping propane can.

[demian5]

I just did a bunch of work on a 1970 that is all original and every bolt required head and PB blaster. The heating, then the cool blast expands then contracts the metal and helps break it apart.

I even had to do that with the ball joints (apply heat to the spindle). That was a first for me.