Please look guys.I need your input on this one!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

flyin99 · 07-09-2002, 07:12 PM

Need your input on if my wheel studs on my back wheels are long enough.they come through the wheel and stop at the edge....there is NO thread sticking through.............if I use long shank lug nuts, will this be ok? I called Weld and they said if I can turn the nut 7 turns, it doesn't matter if it sticks through the wheel or not......hmmmmmmmmmm.......that just sounded odd.maybe it is true.....what you all think?

72Lester · 07-09-2002, 07:16 PM

That looks scary to me. 7 turns or not, I'd still want the threads to at least come all the way through the nuts. Not to mention that fact that the threaded portion of the stud is now load bearing, which is never good.

dion · 07-09-2002, 07:19 PM

I wouldn't.

**Tim Christian** · 07-09-2002, 07:22 PM

Just put longer studs in.

Als454 · 07-09-2002, 07:39 PM

I'm with Tim. Get longer studs. I bought a car once with after market wheels on it. Drove it about 50 miles, felt a slight vibration, right front wheel fell off. Lugs were to short.

Trust me if you don't fix it. It will bother you everytime you drive.

68 with 350 TPI · 07-09-2002, 07:40 PM

Just take off one wheel stud so you can take it to NAPA and match it up with a longer one.

Get a set and change them out.

Very easy to do with a hammer to knock them out.
Then to put them on use a old nut that will fit the new studs with a washer behind it. Just tighten them up until they bottom out and your done.

lux hauler · 07-09-2002, 07:51 PM

the correct length lug nuts that extend through the wheel should be ok but if I was going to be driving it, I'd get longer studs

it is a good idea to use the long shank nuts to keep the wheel from rotating front to back and to distribute the torque throughout the stud.

Wabash · 07-09-2002, 08:03 PM

that dont look good at all
my rule of thumb is to have at least 2 threads sticking out of the other side of the nut just too be sure.
and it isnt that bad to change the studs out if you dont want to do it get your local tire shop to do it it wont take but a few minutes.

*Randy70C-10* · 07-09-2002, 08:27 PM

Yes, get longer studs, but get the correct lugnuts too. If I remember correctly, you should be using 2 1/2 inch lug nuts.

Wasted Income · 07-09-2002, 09:37 PM

Don't use those studs. You're just asking for trouble if you do.

I believe that the IHRA rulebook states that studs must be sticking through the lugnut by at least a length equal to the diameter of the stud.

You probably won't be racing it, but hey, what's safe for racing use is safe for the street (as far as equipment goes).

-Jeff

Danny69' · 07-09-2002, 10:05 PM

I personally would change it. Better safe then sorry.

weasel29gm · 07-09-2002, 10:17 PM

longer studs, rather be safe than sorry!!!!!!!!!

*racedvl* · 07-09-2002, 11:04 PM

Get longer studs. Can't play too safe....

Radiatta_71 · 07-10-2002, 01:50 AM

If this helps any. The proper thread engagement for a threaded fastener is 1.5 X the bolt diameter. I would def. get longer studs.

Rad.

Hooter · 07-10-2002, 02:11 AM

i have had mgs on my 74 for a while. the studs dont stick out through the mags so i have those lug nuts that go into the rim. i have had no problems so far

damage · 07-10-2002, 03:37 AM

Yeah, same here. Had a set of center line mags on my 76 Z/28. The lugs were flush with the rims. The lugs went into the wheels and almost touched the base of the lug. When the wheel is off, insert a lug and see if it pretty close to being flush with the back side of the wheel. If so, you should be alright. My wheels were two piece, and from the looks of it, your are too. If I remember right, mine were pretty thick though, inch and a half, maybe more.

70 Jimmy · 07-10-2002, 08:57 AM

While mechanically there will be no difference if you get longer studs. Your lug nuts will bottom out on the rim and this is where the side load will be felt. Once you reach the outer edge of the rim (which is where your studs are), they're just extra threads. Probably the reason racing rules say have extra threads is to keep the wheel on if the lugs back out a bit. That won't be an issue with long shank lug nuts, not all racers use those so the rules have to cover everyone. I know most of you won't agree but think hard about it. If I were you though, I'd get new studs for piece of mind. Plus, I heard a rumor that I was wrong once. People will talk! LOL

jku72 · 07-10-2002, 09:40 AM

Just one wheel bouncing off down the road, hitting some lawyers BMW will convince you. Maybe you will be safe as is, but if you are wrong, and sombody gets hurt, you will be extremely sorry you pinched pennies. Canging the lugs is so easy, each one takes a bout 1 minute, I think there is no eal justification for not changing. To change them, just find an old nasty lug nut, thread in on, but not all the way, make sure the lug is still recessed in the nut, and wail on it with a dead blow, and it will pop out the back side. Then since the nut was only on hand tight, remove the nut from the lug, and toss the lug away. To install a new one, just slide it through the hole as far as it will go, then draw it the rest of the way in with a lug nut, until it is fully seated. I have about 20 this way, it is quick, easy, and safe.

Low69CST · 07-10-2002, 09:54 AM

I'd go with longer studs, I've seen all the other work you've done to your truck, why go cheap on studs. Nice truck you have, it'd really look bad riding on one of the fenders doing 70 down the interstate.

Smooth68 · 07-10-2002, 10:52 AM

<----------Someone ask for a longer stud?

No, seriously I'm with the majority - go ahead and do the longer studs. I was in the same boat with my u-bolts on the rear, and I got longer ones! Better safe than sorry - especially with a nice truck like that.

07-09-2002, 07:12 PM	#1
flyin99 creator of kong Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Kentucky Posts: 538	Please look guys.I need your input on this one!!! Need your input on if my wheel studs on my back wheels are long enough.they come through the wheel and stop at the edge....there is NO thread sticking through.............if I use long shank lug nuts, will this be ok? I called Weld and they said if I can turn the nut 7 turns, it doesn't matter if it sticks through the wheel or not......hmmmmmmmmmm.......that just sounded odd.maybe it is true.....what you all think? Attached Images

07-09-2002, 07:16 PM	#2
72Lester Genuine smartass Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Enid, OK - soon to be Rapid City, SD Posts: 126	That looks scary to me. 7 turns or not, I'd still want the threads to at least come all the way through the nuts. Not to mention that fact that the threaded portion of the stud is now load bearing, which is never good. __________________ '99 Chevy 3/4 Burb 4x4 '98 Chevy 1/2 Short Bed 4x4 Former 67 & 72 owner Wanted: 1972 10 or 20 4X4, V8 4spd

07-09-2002, 07:19 PM	#3
dion 72 Cheyenne Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: San Diego Posts: 2,086	I wouldn't. __________________ Burnout Idle 1972Cheyenne 1966/67Stouts

07-09-2002, 07:39 PM	#5
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	I'm with Tim. Get longer studs. I bought a car once with after market wheels on it. Drove it about 50 miles, felt a slight vibration, right front wheel fell off. Lugs were to short. Trust me if you don't fix it. It will bother you everytime you drive. __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

07-09-2002, 07:40 PM	#6
68 with 350 TPI Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wingate NC Posts: 456	Just take off one wheel stud so you can take it to NAPA and match it up with a longer one. Get a set and change them out. Very easy to do with a hammer to knock them out. Then to put them on use a old nut that will fit the new studs with a washer behind it. Just tighten them up until they bottom out and your done. __________________ Life is good with a 6-71 supercharged 355 in a 72 camaro

07-09-2002, 07:22 PM	#4
Tim Christian Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: TN/VA Posts: 6,388	Just put longer studs in.

07-09-2002, 07:51 PM	#7
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	the correct length lug nuts that extend through the wheel should be ok but if I was going to be driving it, I'd get longer studs it is a good idea to use the long shank nuts to keep the wheel from rotating front to back and to distribute the torque throughout the stud. __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian). Last edited by lux hauler; 07-09-2002 at 10:39 PM.

07-09-2002, 08:03 PM	#8
Wabash Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 534	that dont look good at all my rule of thumb is to have at least 2 threads sticking out of the other side of the nut just too be sure. and it isnt that bad to change the studs out if you dont want to do it get your local tire shop to do it it wont take but a few minutes. __________________ 1972 C/10 LWB 1972 K/5 Blazer

07-09-2002, 08:27 PM	#9
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	Yes, get longer studs, but get the correct lugnuts too. If I remember correctly, you should be using 2 1/2 inch lug nuts.

07-09-2002, 09:37 PM	#10
Wasted Income Boosted Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Mackinaw, IL Posts: 2,200	Don't use those studs. You're just asking for trouble if you do. I believe that the IHRA rulebook states that studs must be sticking through the lugnut by at least a length equal to the diameter of the stud. You probably won't be racing it, but hey, what's safe for racing use is safe for the street (as far as equipment goes). -Jeff __________________ 1972 2wd K/5 Blazer Turbocharged 370 LSx - 941 rwhp / 1093 rwtq 1969 Chevy K-10 L33 5.3 / 4L80E / NP241 / 4" lift 1964 Buick Skylark Twin TURBO 383 LS pro-touring project 2014 VW Passat TDI - Daily Driver Turbo diesel 2015 Sierra Denali HD Duramax Turbo diesel 2016 Ford Explorer Sport - Twin Turbskis 2017 Polaris RZR Turbo 2014 Nor-Tech Center Console - Twin Supercharged Outboards *TURBO ALL THE THINGS!!*

07-09-2002, 10:05 PM	#11
Danny69' Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 93	I personally would change it. Better safe then sorry. __________________ 1969' LWB [Work in Progress]

07-09-2002, 10:17 PM	#12
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,091	longer studs, rather be safe than sorry!!!!!!!!! __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 35YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

07-09-2002, 11:04 PM	#13
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	Get longer studs. Can't play too safe....

07-10-2002, 01:50 AM	#14
Radiatta_71 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 117	If this helps any. The proper thread engagement for a threaded fastener is 1.5 X the bolt diameter. I would def. get longer studs. Rad.

07-10-2002, 02:11 AM	#15
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,078	i have had mgs on my 74 for a while. the studs dont stick out through the mags so i have those lug nuts that go into the rim. i have had no problems so far __________________ MEMBER DISCS UP FRONT CLUB 69 custom camper/cst 10 70 monte carlo 383 stroker with a 700r4 77 fully loaded silverado (back in the backyard for a little while longer) 1980 BMW 320i (back in the garage finally) 1981 f@*d f150 4x4 (Robert red ford) tried to kill me 1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com AC/DC RULES!!! First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life



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07-10-2002, 03:37 AM	#16
damage Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Greer, SC Posts: 82	Yeah, same here. Had a set of center line mags on my 76 Z/28. The lugs were flush with the rims. The lugs went into the wheels and almost touched the base of the lug. When the wheel is off, insert a lug and see if it pretty close to being flush with the back side of the wheel. If so, you should be alright. My wheels were two piece, and from the looks of it, your are too. If I remember right, mine were pretty thick though, inch and a half, maybe more.

07-10-2002, 08:57 AM	#17
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	While mechanically there will be no difference if you get longer studs. Your lug nuts will bottom out on the rim and this is where the side load will be felt. Once you reach the outer edge of the rim (which is where your studs are), they're just extra threads. Probably the reason racing rules say have extra threads is to keep the wheel on if the lugs back out a bit. That won't be an issue with long shank lug nuts, not all racers use those so the rules have to cover everyone. I know most of you won't agree but think hard about it. If I were you though, I'd get new studs for piece of mind. Plus, I heard a rumor that I was wrong once. People will talk! LOL __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

07-10-2002, 09:40 AM	#18
jku72 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: cornville, maine Posts: 659	Just one wheel bouncing off down the road, hitting some lawyers BMW will convince you. Maybe you will be safe as is, but if you are wrong, and sombody gets hurt, you will be extremely sorry you pinched pennies. Canging the lugs is so easy, each one takes a bout 1 minute, I think there is no eal justification for not changing. To change them, just find an old nasty lug nut, thread in on, but not all the way, make sure the lug is still recessed in the nut, and wail on it with a dead blow, and it will pop out the back side. Then since the nut was only on hand tight, remove the nut from the lug, and toss the lug away. To install a new one, just slide it through the hole as far as it will go, then draw it the rest of the way in with a lug nut, until it is fully seated. I have about 20 this way, it is quick, easy, and safe. __________________ jku Cornville, Maine 68 C10 burb 42 Willys MB 46 Dodge WF-32 1.5 ton 53 & 56 Olds' 60 Cadillac 22 Dodge Brothers

07-10-2002, 09:54 AM	#19
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I'd go with longer studs, I've seen all the other work you've done to your truck, why go cheap on studs. Nice truck you have, it'd really look bad riding on one of the fenders doing 70 down the interstate. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

07-10-2002, 10:52 AM	#20
Smooth68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country Posts: 1,826	<----------Someone ask for a longer stud? No, seriously I'm with the majority - go ahead and do the longer studs. I was in the same boat with my u-bolts on the rear, and I got longer ones! Better safe than sorry - especially with a nice truck like that. __________________ Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - *SOLD* Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab

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