383 build

[Garagedude]

Well I picked up a 400 small block crank, and I am going to look at a block this week. I am going to try an build this motor on a reasonable budget. A buddy of mine is going to do the machine work for me. My question is what type parts to go with, what do you guys recommend as far as rods, piston, heads. I know that this motor is defiantly going to a be a solid roller. I am going to shoot for 500hp. What do you guys think?

[Marv D]

You don't need a solid roller for 500HP,, If your going racing ONLY, sure it's a given, but uyou wouldn't be limiting yourself to 500HP then now would you . If your driving it, you'll be well off with a nice hydraulic roller and meet your goal. 5.7" or 6" Eagle ESP stroker H-beam rods work nice in a 383. Makes for more rod to cam clearance. SRP pistons are a fine piece and a good buy,,, and available in many dome / flat / dish configurations to make compression targets.
Heads are where the power is made. All the compression in the world, huge cams, nothing will make up for a poor flowing head (except boost). I am very partial to the AFR line. The 210's work really well on a 383, the 220's and 227's require a offset shaft rocker system to get geometry 'right'. Don't believe that 'works with standard Chevy valvetrain" claim on the AFR site. 'Works' and 'works RIGHT' are two different things. IMO a 383 ought to be treated as a 400 and nothing less than a WELL flowing head in the 210-215cc range (220 if it's track only or more cubes). Get lift up into the peak flow of the head (.600 for street is easy enough on a good set of hydraulic roller springs with the heavy 2.08" intakes) If using a hydraulic roller, the AFR Hydra-rev kit will keep the valve train in check up to 6200-6500rpm. Really the hydra-rev kit is more to keep the lifter toss / valve bounce in check more than extending the rpm range. On the street a RPM intake with some porting, or on the track a SuperVictor works well with a carb in the 800-850cfm range.

That's just one opinion,, lots of ways to skin this cat and have it shooting 500HP out it's butt at will

[Garagedude]

Thanks Marv for all the great information. Right now the plan is to build this motor slowly over winter, and then throw it in when spring gets here, and take it to the track.

[shortbed70]

If you have a 400 block than build a 400+ motor it will yeild more torque and be reliable also. 4.155 -.030 over/3.750 stroke=406.7ci or my goal
4.165-.040 over/3.865 stroke=421ci. Add a brodix track one topend kit and you'll have some serious hp but to make it all work buy a kit with cam heads,intake etc...

[djracer]

I just finished working on a 67 camaro with a dart headed 408 and its very stout. It has 6 inch rods and Je pistons and is a bear. For an honest 500 pony's you will probably need a small plate. Or a big block. This motor my buddy has was 360 at the rear wheel with an out of the box carb no tuning and a 636 roller shaft.

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by djracer

.... For an honest 500 pony's you will probably need a small plate. Or a big block.

Oh come on DJ,, surely you jest! Your just spoiled to doing it the easy way with them big ol hunks of pig iron. I agree just because he only has the 400 crank he will have to work at it with a 4" bore block, and $ for $ he may be better off building a big block at this level,,, but 'need',,,, I (and my machinist Superflow-901 dyno) will have to disagree with that one!

[Garagedude]

Yeah I love the idea of building a big block, Its just I have so many small block parts. But after looking through summit and reading articles I will probably go the big block route. I have a buddy who had a 383 professionally built for his pro street blazer. He is running a solid roller, dart pro 1 heads, 13:1 compression I could tell you all the internal parts, but he made 695hp at the dyno. The motor also cost him $12,000.

[Wild83C10]

I just built a 383 for my truck. I haven't hit the chassis dyno yet, but the desktop dyno reports about 550 hp 520 lb-ft. I used the AFR 210 heads and a hydraulic roller cam. I was going to use my old 350 block and buy a forged rotating assembly. However, I bought a complete short block from M&R Engines and it was only $2600 with a 1 year warranty. All forged rotating assembly and a new 350 bolck from chevy. Assembled with ARP hardware, really nice work.
I think you could use the AFR 195 heads and have better low end. You need a pretty big cam to take advantage of the AFR 210 flow rates and you lose some bottom end with the bigger duration cam.

[Wild83C10]

Oh top it off with a performer RPM Air gap intake. The best overall intake for a small block. One magazine tested like 15-20 different intakes and the air gap made the best average hp and tq and was only a few hp below some expensive single plane intakes.