1952 Project 1433

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

It does seem to be a '52 cab and clip. The '53 designation by the previous owner may have originated from the year of the frame, if he knew it to be from a '53.

Prior to 1980 there was little or no VIN standardization, so I doubt that the registration office would even know if it was supposed to be a '52 or '53. If it was mine, I would attempt to make the registration concur with the number on the plate on the cab. (by the way--please double check the information I posted as far as what the year model is. I believe it was a credible source, but cross-check me on that).

You do make a good point. Maybe the frame was from a 53. But like I mentioned above, my serial number starts with a 2.

These links verifies what you said above. The bottom link also has the TRIM and BODY SERIAL information.
http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/page0396.html
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...&Number=839480

I don't believe it will be an issue with the registration office either. But I would like the information about my truck to be as accurate as possible. Now I might have to change my project name on the page LOL.

[northern 49]

My truck is kinda the same thing. It's a '49 1433 cab on what I believe is a '52 1300 frame. The previous owner wasn't too sure what year the frame was because when he got it, it had no cab or drive train. He had it pieced together with the drive train outta the '49. Now it's shaping up to be much like yours.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by northern 49

My truck is kinda the same thing. It's a '49 1433 cab on what I believe is a '52 1300 frame. The previous owner wasn't too sure what year the frame was because when he got it, it had no cab or drive train. He had it pieced together with the drive train outta the '49. Now it's shaping up to be much like yours.

I think pretty much every AD truck on this forum is pieced together like ours LOL. Do you know if the frames had serial numbers? then we would actually know what year it was off of.

[jkeating1]

That's good information on Stovebolt regarding the 394 Trim code being Brown Leatherette. I have not seen a guide on trim codes anywhere.

What I have seen on the paint code is that RPO 234 is the code for "optional color". Could be any of the 11 optional paint colors. The "standard" color was Juniper Green. If the dealer or customer didn't specify an option (and pay more, I assume) the truck came dark green. If anyone has one of those trucks that was Juniper Green originally, I'd be interested to know what paint code (or none) is on the tag.

I have yet to see a way to tell which of the optional colors an AD would have been built with. Again--if you run across that info please post it.

It's interesting that there is no Regular Production Option listed for the pinstripe, which leads me to believe every '53 had a cab pinstripe as standard equipment. Every color has a corresponding pinstripe color listed. Even the standard Juniper Green would have had a Medium Cream stripe.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

That's good information on Stovebolt regarding the 394 Trim code being Brown Leatherette. I have not seen a guide on trim codes anywhere.

I did a ton of google searches and that is the only mention of the TRIM code. I've yet to find any kind of guide online either.

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

...Do you know if the frames had serial numbers? then we would actually know what year it was off of.

Forgive my multiple posts, but as with the paint, trim, etc.--the frame part of the equation is interesting to me, as I am at the stage of looking for a frame as well.

I can't find any indication that they stamped serial numbers on the frame. The only things I've seen so far is that you can tell a '47-'53 from a '54-'55.1. You can also tell a GMC from a Chevrolet.

Here's a photo-comparison:

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/blog/i...assis-1947-55/

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

Forgive my multiple posts, but as with the paint, trim, etc.--the frame part of the equation is interesting to me, as I am at the stage of looking for a frame as well.

I can't find any indication that they stamped serial numbers on the frame. The only things I've seen so far is that you can tell a '47-'53 from a '54-'55.1. You can also tell a GMC from a Chevrolet.

Here's a photo-comparison:

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/blog/i...assis-1947-55/

That is a very interesting article. Thank you for sharing.

[northern 49]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I think pretty much every AD truck on this forum is pieced together like ours LOL. Do you know if the frames had serial numbers? then we would actually know what year it was off of.

Yeah I guess you're right most of these trucks are mutts. As far as I know there was no serial numbers on the frame. You can narrow it down a bit if the frame is still carrying some of the original parts. Such as 47 and 48 had under bed gas tanks friction shocks and huck style drum breaks and I believe a single rear cab mount. 49 had in cab tank with huck style breaks, 50 they changed to bendix style drum breaks and tube shocks. The beds had nine boards on the floor up to 51 then I believe they changed eight boards 52 and 53. Break line routing and master cylinders changed throughout aswell. This is all stuff I learned after I bought my truck about 3 and a half years ago and may not be 100 percent accurate, so if anyone wishes to chime in that's fine. I also couldn't credit the sources of this info either because it's been a while. The trivial crap I can remember but I can't remember why I walked to my toolbox

[84blaze]

Looking forward to seeing this truck on the road this summer!!

I'm also in the Edmonton area and I'm currently building a 49 5 window on a S10 chassis. I've been at a stand sill due to the cold snap we've been in the last couple weeks.

You have a great head start. Looking forward to more progress pictures!

[robozride]

Seems like a great deal to me! what an excellent start, all of the hard work is done. should be able to hit your budget and have some serious equity! have you seen what people are paying for good quality patina AD's on Ebay? its crazy

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by robozride

Seems like a great deal to me! what an excellent start, all of the hard work is done. should be able to hit your budget and have some serious equity! have you seen what people are paying for good quality patina AD's on Ebay? its crazy

I've watched some patina AD trucks go on eBay for crazy money. My truck will be just a fun patina cruiser. A lot of the eBay trucks are on air ride but I'm hoping to ride as low as possible in comfort.

I just got my Xmas bonus so I got that money set aside for the truck. I figure if the money isn't coming out of my pocket the better Now I just need to get into the new house so I can get it into my new man cave. I can't wait!!!!

[NeoJuice]

Well it's official on Saturday March 4th I was able to finally get the truck home. I have some pictures to upload but my ISP shutdown there web services the other day.

Where are you guys hosting all your images? As you can see on my page 1 all my images are X's.

Also, how do you edit your initial post so I can fix the picture links once I find a new host?

[NeoJuice]

Hello,

Going to try and use google photos from now on. As you can see the day we moved the truck we had about 8" of snow. Wasn't to cold but the snow was sure coming down.

Fits in the garage pretty good. Got about 3 1/2 feet on either side and about 4 feet in the rear for my work bench and tool box. If I need to move the truck out I can just move it forward into my parking spot in the garage.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Hello,

Going to try and use google photos from now on. As you can see the day we moved the truck we had about 8" of snow. Wasn't to cold but the snow was sure coming down.

Fits in the garage pretty good. Got about 3 1/2 feet on either side and about 4 feet in the rear for my work bench and tool box. If I need to move the truck out I can just move it forward into my parking spot in the garage.

Well Google Photos didn't work. Lets try photobucket.

[NeoJuice]

Little update.

This weekend I got the truck all jacked up and up on crib blocks. All the tires are off now and its high enough to get under there with my creeper.

Upon further inspection, the front end is TCI but an older version it looks like because of the different upper control arm design. Also got a little bit closer look at the rear end. The only parts there are the rotors that were painted black along when the frame was painted.

[jweb]

I noticed in your photo that your T bolts in the upper arms are in upside down. The "T" should go in from the bottom. Probably not a big deal, but it may get knocked out of alignment easier.

Either way, nice truck.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

I noticed in your photo that your T bolts in the upper arms are in upside down. The "T" should go in from the bottom. Probably not a big deal, but it may get knocked out of alignment easier.

Either way, nice truck.

Jweb,

Thank you for noticing that. I didn't install the front end so I will have to flip those around. The two bottom pictures are from the TCI install manual compared to the first image which is how mine is installed. Is that what you were referring to? On Saturday that was really the first time getting a closer look at the suspension.

Now I just have to figure out what I'm going to do with the rear end. Some of the parts for rear disk breaks on a 1979-1981 camero/firebird/transAm are not available in aftermarket parts.

Do I keep it and try and find all the parts? or ditch it for a s10 or something rear end?

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Do I keep it and try and find all the parts? or ditch it for a s10 or something rear end?

Hard to say up there, but in the US the parts would be relatively easy to find used. I would make an effort to keep it first. Maybe someone on here has a Hollander manual and could tell you what other GM calipers, etc., are interchangeable.

Also--Rockauto.com has them (1981 Camaro 305 V8):

RAYBESTOS RC6026 Professional Grade; Organic Loaded Caliper, Remanufactured
Rear Left
$78.79
$8.89 core charge
$87.68

RAYBESTOS RC6025 Professional Grade; Organic Loaded Caliper, Remanufactured
Rear Right
$78.79
$8.89 core charge
$87.68

Edit--after looking that up, I remembered you said the PO said it was a Trans Am diff. If so, I believe it has the same caliper as above. By the way, apparently you are correct that it is not a '77 diff, because those must have had drums--no listing for rear disc parts.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

Hard to say up there, but in the US the parts would be relatively easy to find used. I would make an effort to keep it first. Maybe someone on here has a Hollander manual and could tell you what other GM calipers, etc., are interchangeable.

Also--Rockauto.com has them (1981 Camaro 305 V8):

RAYBESTOS RC6026 Professional Grade; Organic Loaded Caliper, Remanufactured
Rear Left
$78.79
$8.89 core charge
$87.68

RAYBESTOS RC6025 Professional Grade; Organic Loaded Caliper, Remanufactured
Rear Right
$78.79
$8.89 core charge
$87.68

jkeating1,

Thank you for the information. I will take a closer look and see what rockatuo.com has. I seen some of the parts on classicindustires.com site I might need.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/rc6025.html
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/rc6026.html

The part numbers look to be the same. Just classicindustires charges a premium on them. Good find jkeating1. It also looks like the classicindustries one's come with the parking brake bracket/springs as well.

Also do you think I could swap the 'T" bolts around without taking apart the front end? I'm not sure what kind of load is on it with the bottom spring.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Jweb,

Thank you for noticing that. I didn't install the front end so I will have to flip those around. The two bottom pictures are from the TCI install manual compared to the first image which is how mine is installed. Is that what you were referring to? On Saturday that was really the first time getting a closer look at the suspension.

Now I just have to figure out what I'm going to do with the rear end. Some of the parts for rear disk breaks on a 1979-1981 camero/firebird/transAm are not available in aftermarket parts.

Do I keep it and try and find all the parts? or ditch it for a s10 or something rear end?

I would make an effort to keep the rear end that's in there. First I would take the cover off to make sure everything looks good inside. Then hunt down the needed parts for the brakes.

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Also do you think I could swap the 'T" bolts around without taking apart the front end? I'm not sure what kind of load is on it with the bottom spring.

Jweb can probably answer that. If you can get to the nut, you could probably remove and replace one at a time, with a jack under the lower control arm.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

Jweb can probably answer that. If you can get to the nut, you could probably remove and replace one at a time, with a jack under the lower control arm.

I know I could reach my finger up in there and touch the bolt, but the other question is if I can get a socket in there. I'll take a look and see. Yes I would have a jack under the lower control arm.

If anyone else wants to chime in they can. I'll update once I have a chance to look at it closer.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

I would make an effort to keep the rear end that's in there. First I would take the cover off to make sure everything looks good inside. Then hunt down the needed parts for the brakes.

First thing I did was check the oil. Clean and full. Coolant is fresh dex cool and the rad is full. Transmission is empty because its brand new and has never been run. Nothing showed up on the transmission dip stick. Next thing to check is if there is fluid in the rear end and how it looks before pulling the back plate off.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I know I could reach my finger up in there and touch the bolt, but the other question is if I can get a socket in there. I'll take a look and see. Yes I would have a jack under the lower control arm.

If anyone else wants to chime in they can. I'll update once I have a chance to look at it closer.

I think it's going to be really hard to get a socket in there, but someone must have when they put it together. A jack under the control arm is a good idea, then just do 1 bolt at a time.

Honestly, it may not be necessary to switch them, but if you have any plans to get an alignment it will difficult to do the way they are.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

First thing I did was check the oil. Clean and full. Coolant is fresh dex cool and the rad is full. Transmission is empty because its brand new and has never been run. Nothing showed up on the transmission dip stick. Next thing to check is if there is fluid in the rear end and how it looks before pulling the back plate off.

There are a lot of people who have problems with Dex Cool in old engines, you may want to do some research. I would recommend standard antifreeze.