47-55.1 Assistance needed - where do these go?

[TX3100Guy]

As I'm working toward reassembling parts of my 1953 five-window 3100, I have these six brackets that were in a box and not on the truck when I acquired it. Can you guys give me a hand in identifying where these items go?

Thanks in advance!

[mr48chev]

Red arrow, front fender brace.

Blue arrow, running board splash apron brace.

Yellow arrow, rear fender brace if you didn't fill the rivet hole in the fender.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Red arrow, front fender brace.

Blue arrow, running board splash apron brace.

Yellow arrow, rear fender brace if you didn't fill the rivet hole in the fender.

That helps a lot. Thanks.

On a second note, here are photos of the passenger side wheel well and the drivers side. A splash shield of sorts appears to be missing on the drivers side. What is this part referred to, so that I can find a replacement?

[fauXGT]

Passenger splash apron is for the battery tray. Drivers side doesn't need one.
That reminds me....I either have to make one or buy one. I'm missing mine.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

Passenger splash apron is for the battery tray. Drivers side doesn't need one.
That reminds me....I either have to make one or buy one. I'm missing mine.

That makes sense. Thanks!

[mr48chev]

FauXGT for the win.

I was going to look at the rear fender that I have in the shed to see if it had the brace in it and it wasn't hanging where I thought it was. A search showed that it was on the other side of the shed but doesn't have the brace. That's probably why I have had trouble with that fender cracking at about the 10 O'Clock position on the opening.

[mr48chev]

Someone on FB was kind enough to show us a rear fender with a brace in place.

[fauXGT]

I just POR-15'd the insides of the fenders this week to halt the rust. Had 1 of the rear fenders missing the support brace and waited a couple of weeks for my dad to try to find the stock rivets from his 58 Impala project. Finally went to the hardware store and found the smallest carriage bolts and filed down to resemble the rivets. Installed and coated.

[mr48chev]

There are small screws for things like school wall lockers that have a rounded head with no screw driver slots and a serrated shank that are held on with nuts but I don't know if they would be the correct size for that.

= Slotless locker bolts https://www.rsclockers.com/product/s...t-and-hex-nut/ https://www.amazon.com/Locker-Nuts-B.../dp/B0847D1FYJ Meaning that they should be available in small quantities. I've taken them out of old junk wall lockers I scrapped out before.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

I just POR-15'd the insides of the fenders this week to halt the rust. Had 1 of the rear fenders missing the support brace and waited a couple of weeks for my dad to try to find the stock rivets from his 58 Impala project. Finally went to the hardware store and found the smallest carriage bolts and filed down to resemble the rivets. Installed and coated.

I’ve not used Por-15 before. How much prep did you have to do before painting it on (brushed on I assume)? Does it harden just like paint or is it more durable? How much did you use to cover the inside of all four fenders?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
Posted via Mobile Device

[fauXGT]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

I’ve not used Por-15 before. How much prep did you have to do before painting it on (brushed on I assume)? Does it harden just like paint or is it more durable? How much did you use to cover the inside of all four fenders?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
Posted via Mobile Device

It is an ecapsulant. It stops oxygen from reaching the metal to continue the rust. Just remove the loose rust, and I wipe down with 'Prep-all' and brush on. It takes several hours to cure so the brush marks flow level. Brushes I use are throw aways being it's a PITA to clean them.
It doesn't have much flex, so it's more suited for fairly rigid parts like frames etc....
I know this from using it on leaf springs years ago. A couple of months after application (on a fair weather vehicle) it started flaking off. It is an oil based product, so it helps getting into the cracks and layers of metals, if gravity is there. It is very durable. I would rather try to use this on non-shiny finish sides than take the rust down to the metal. You start to lose the integrity of the substraight if ground down.
I was using the last of the can...about 1.5+ pints. It is a bit pricey so if you think you need a couple of pints, up it for a cheaper price. Be sure only pour out what you'll use. Don't dump back the unused. It is contaminated. And get a couple of mason jars of different sizes. The smaller the oxygen space in the jar with the POR will make it last longer. I barely finished this with the remainder of a jar, but also had some dried product with quite a bit of air space in the jar after the last use. Reduce the jar size to product left. Make sure you wipe the lid and cap before resealing.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

It is an ecapsulant. It stops oxygen from reaching the metal to continue the rust. Just remove the loose rust, and I wipe down with 'Prep-all' and brush on. It takes several hours to cure so the brush marks flow level. Brushes I use are throw aways being it's a PITA to clean them.
It doesn't have much flex, so it's more suited for fairly rigid parts like frames etc....
I know this from using it on leaf springs years ago. A couple of months after application (on a fair weather vehicle) it started flaking off. It is an oil based product, so it helps getting into the cracks and layers of metals, if gravity is there. It is very durable. I would rather try to use this on non-shiny finish sides than take the rust down to the metal. You start to lose the integrity of the substraight if ground down.
I was using the last of the can...about 1.5+ pints. It is a bit pricey so if you think you need a couple of pints, up it for a cheaper price. Be sure only pour out what you'll use. Don't dump back the unused. It is contaminated. And get a couple of mason jars of different sizes. The smaller the oxygen space in the jar with the POR will make it last longer. I barely finished this with the remainder of a jar, but also had some dried product with quite a bit of air space in the jar after the last use. Reduce the jar size to product left. Make sure you wipe the lid and cap before resealing.

My original plan was to spray bed liner on the back sides of the four fenders give some light surface rust. I'm a bit turned off by the mess that spraying bed liner would cause and have been searching for a solution.

I was vaguely familiar with POR-15 having had a Jeep and hearing about guys coating their frames with that product, but as I mentioned I've never used it.

I like the idea of a rust prevention product that keeps any further rust from appearing. While the paint on my fenders needs a good cutting and buffing, I wanted to protect the underside of them too. This looks and sounds like a great solution. For the backside of the four fenders how much product did you actually end up using, just the 1 1/2 pints?? Was that for one or two coats?

Thanks again.

[fauXGT]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

My original plan was to spray bed liner on the back sides of the four fenders give some light surface rust. I'm a bit turned off by the mess that spraying bed liner would cause and have been searching for a solution.

I was vaguely familiar with POR-15 having had a Jeep and hearing about guys coating their frames with that product, but as I mentioned I've never used it.

I like the idea of a rust prevention product that keeps any further rust from appearing. While the paint on my fenders needs a good cutting and buffing, I wanted to protect the underside of them too. This looks and sounds like a great solution. For the backside of the four fenders how much product did you actually end up using, just the 1 1/2 pints?? Was that for one or two coats?

Thanks again.

Just 1 coat. POR likes a rought surface, so if you put on a smooth surface, it may take some 2nd coat touchups, but wait for it to flow and dry (an oil based product) before considering a 2nd coat. Like is stated, the loose rust just needs to be removed and then coated. My front fenders were fairly rusty, so a wire brush, shop vac then wipe down with prep all, which is probably not necessary but removed more loose rust dust. I use Harbor Freight 2" brushes to toss when done. Wear rubber gloves, long sleeves and clothes that you don't care if spotted by product...unless you like to scrub bare flesh with a heavy scotchbright.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

Just 1 coat. POR likes a rought surface, so if you put on a smooth surface, it may take some 2nd coat touchups, but wait for it to flow and dry (an oil based product) before considering a 2nd coat. Like is stated, the loose rust just needs to be removed and then coated. My front fenders were fairly rusty, so a wire brush, shop vac then wipe down with prep all, which is probably not necessary but removed more loose rust dust. I use Harbor Freight 2" brushes to toss when done. Wear rubber gloves, long sleeves and clothes that you don't care if spotted by product...unless you like to scrub bare flesh with a heavy scotchbright.

Thanks again, great advice. Doesn't everyone like scrubbing bare flesh with scotchbright????? LOL

[fauXGT]

I will still probably spray rubber undercoating on the insides of the fenders(will help with rock chips), but to stop the further spread of rust is the biggest threat on my rust bucket parts.

[_Ogre]

ogre used commercial grade rhino liner under all fenders and the bottom of the cab
12 yrs and 36,000 miles and all looks well.
i used the spray can stuff under the bed steps, it wasn't worth the effort. thin and scrapes off easy

POR15'd my frame, rear axle and rear springs: again it's held up well, with no top coat
i sand blasted most of my stuff prior to POR15 and used their metal prep
ground and sanded the frame, used eastwoods blast-in-a-bucket for the hard to reach areas

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

There are small screws for things like school wall lockers that have a rounded head with no screw driver slots and a serrated shank that are held on with nuts but I don't know if they would be the correct size for that.

= Slotless locker bolts https://www.rsclockers.com/product/s...t-and-hex-nut/ https://www.amazon.com/Locker-Nuts-B.../dp/B0847D1FYJ Meaning that they should be available in small quantities. I've taken them out of old junk wall lockers I scrapped out before.

Come on Mr48 did you figure that out or do you remember me talking about it? I used those on my truck removed from lockers in a body shop I was working at in 1979!

Do you randomly know that or was it from something I posted? I ask because it blows my ever loving mind how you are like a brother from another mother!


Brian

[mr48chev]

I may full and well remembered it from your previous post. I did have a section of junk lockers that I cabbaged some screws off. They are in a jar somewhere in my garage.

[MARTINSR]

But did you get those off the lockers before we "met" here? The oldest I found in a search was from Dec 2019, I have to think I mentioned it before but that was the oldest I could find.


Brian