Set timing, now truck won’t start

[BillgreenC10]

72 C10 with a 350. Changed to a new intake. Got everything back together, started it up and set timing. Everything sounded great. Turned it off, tightened down the distributor clamp and reattached vacuum to HEI distributor.

Now it won’t start at all. Sounds like the starter isn’t turning. Went back through everything and it’s all reattached. Literally just tightened the dizzy clamp and attached vacuum line. Any ideas?

[RustyPile]

Starter "not turning" is not related to distributor clamp, timing, or vacuum hoses. It's impossible to put a finger on the exact cause. Things to check are: ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter solenoid, purple wire. The main power feed wire attaches to the ignition switch. With the ignition switch turned to the "START" position, power is applied to the purple wire. From the ignition switch, this wire goes to the safety switch (if auto transmission equipped). from this switch, power is fed through the purple wire to the starter solenoid. Any open circuit will interrupt the current flow. In other words, you've got a loss of signal through the purple wire or failure of any of the components in the "chain" -- an electrical issue..

[BillgreenC10]

I figure that it had nothing to do with what I’ve done. When I turn the key, there is a clunk, not a dead ignition. Almost like it’s tries to turn
Over and gets stuck.

I can rotate the motor by hand. The timing was set to 12 degrees when I turned it off.

[geezer#99]

Loose starter can make the gear clunk on the flexplate.

[BillgreenC10]

The starter is engaging the flywheel, just not cranking. Checked grounds, everything looks OK. Super weird that it started to set timing with no issues, ran for 5 minutes. Turned it off, for 5 minutes and now it wont start.

I tried to jump with my little jump start box, no luck. I’m gonna bring the other truck around to try and jump if.

[BillgreenC10]

72 C10 with a 350. I just changed the intake and while I was at it put in valve cover studs instead of using bolts. Fresh paint on the valve covers and fresh nuts using a Mr. Gasket stud kit.

Truck started and I set timing at 12 degrees. Everything sounded great. Turned it off, tightened up the distributor clamp, hooked up the vacuum and tried to start it. And nothing.

Starter engages but doesn’t turn the flywheel. Tried a jumper box and jumping off my other truck. Nothing. Could the valve cover grounds be the problem? I suck at electrical. Thansk

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by BillgreenC10

I figure that it had nothing to do with what I’ve done. When I turn the key, there is a clunk, not a dead ignition. Almost like it’s tries to turn
Over and gets stuck.

I can rotate the motor by hand. The timing was set to 12 degrees when I turned it off.

Electrical issues have to be approached in a methodical manner. First things first. The starter is the single most "current eater" on a vehicle. During it's initial engagement it draws approximately 200 amps. During the cranking process, the starter will draw easily over 120 amps. That's why the battery cables are of a large gauge. Connections must be clean and tight. The very first thing to do is to clean the battery posts and terminals, paying close attention to the contact areas. Is the battery fully charged?? A quick check that is not all conclusive but is a good indicator of battery condition, turn on the headlights and then turn the ignition switch to START. Even if the starter just "clunks", the lights should remain relatively bright..

[geezer#99]

So what did you set the timing at?
Sounds now like you have it way over advanced.

[kwmech]

OR-----there is a leak in the intake and one of the cylinders is hydrolocked by either coolant or fuel. Pull the spark plugs before you bend a connecting rod if you haven't already

[RustyPile]

Did you follow the suggestions I posted in your other thread concerning this problem????

[mongocanfly]

what KW said..!!!!
take plugs out and see if you can rotate the engine by hand....may need a new starter
my tractor did the same thing..never missed a start..then one day nothing but a clunk ..pulled starter off..when i took it apart, i couldnt believe how bad it looked inside..no idea how it was even working when it did...$500 later and im back in business

[Dead Parrot]

Both starters and batteries can suffer 'sudden death syndrome'. Setting the timing probably had nothing to do with the failure to start. Too advanced timing can cause hard to start but the motor will almost always start to turn then stop when the next plug up fires.

2nd what kwmech said. New intake or gasket could have a leak. Possible the 5 minute run pressurized the coolant system enough to let coolant leak into a cylinder when you let it sit for a few minutes.
Check and clean the battery terminals.
If the battery cables are several years old, internal corrosion can be an issue.
Thump the forward end of the starter with a rubber mallet. If your issue is worn starter brushes, the thump can get you a couple more starts.

[BillgreenC10]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I cleaned the battery terminals and tried to jump it but got nothing. Lights come on bright. I’ll have the battery checked today.

I can rotate the crankshaft by hand quite easily, feels the same as when I set TDC.

I’ll pull the plugs today and see what comes out.

Timing was set to 12 degrees, ran and sounded great. I did come back a hair when it wouldn’t start to see if that would help.

Part of the reason I wanted to tackle the intake was because it was leaking oil, the starter was/is drenched. I’ve had other cars do that too so I don’t think that wouid have anything to do with it.

I checked all the grounds, the valve cover to cab grounds are now on studs which coated black. The nuts are chrome. Original valve covers were cleaned and painted before going back in. Bad ground?

I have a thimble full of mechanical skill so I appreciate the help.

[BillgreenC10]

Battery shop says the battery is solid

[Dead Parrot]

If you can rotate by hand, it isn't hydro-locked.

If the battery is good, connections clean and tight and cables good, next suspect up is the starter/solenoid OR the ignition switch.

See if the shop has a remote starter switch you can borrow. If bypassing the ignition switch gets a start, then bad switch or connections/wiring to/from the switch. The remote stater switch test is simpler and less messy then pulling an oil covered starter.

[BillgreenC10]

The ignition switch turns on accessories and does initiate the starter. The starter engages the flywheel and then just stops. If the ignition switch is doing all that, could it really still be the IGNITION switch?

I think it might just be weird timing for the starter to give it up?

[geezer#99]

Unplug the power to the distributor and then see what it does.
If it cranks over really good then it’s just over advanced.

[BillgreenC10]

Geezer#99 - nothing. Pulled the starter and had it tested at Autozone. Starter was toast, got a new one and I’ll install tomorrow. Thanks for all the checks to go thru, it just helps me learn more. Appreciate it fellas.

[mongocanfly]

Badabing badaboom