AL Wtb axillary fuel tank retaining nuts

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by knuckle-nurse

I believe those are 7/16x14- 12" carriage bolts with a special washer. I tried to find a supplier but no luck so far.

I have a contact at a bolt place.
So 12" is the measurement on the carriage bolt?

Originally Posted by BASE

Will do. I didn’t get a chance to make any of the barrel parts today but I do have a line on a pile of 2” dia 1/8” thick stamped metal discs I’ll get this week. Getting my press to do what I want to those is the only thing I’m worried about. The rest is pretty trivial even with my clapped out old lathe. Worst case is I can turn those discs on the lathe too.

Did you turn any discs?
If so How did they turn out?

Originally Posted by 67RS/SSx2

How many are looking for sets of the tank nuts? I had an OKC machine shop machine a set for me and for Knuckle Nurse. I thought they turned out great. If I can get an approximate count I will stop by the shop and see if he would make some more. I would connect you direct with the machine shop if he is willing. Here are what they look like.

Originally Posted by 67RS/SSx2

Just saw your post. I paid $200 for six nuts (average $33.33 each) a while back. Not sure what he is charging now that he knows for sure what it takes to make them.

That is Very reasonable considering time and materials.

Originally Posted by Fourbrads

Thanks. That helps. I'm guessing that the sides of the shaft portion of the old flange assembly are rusted to the insides of the through holes in the tank. And you're right....there is a lot of crud in there that has accumulated over the years. I'll have to find a way to pick that stuff out first.

I was Gifted a Tank with 2 nuts that survived.

My plan is to clean out the through holes as best I can, seal the holes in the flange bottoms, then pour rust remover into the holes and let it sit. With any luck, some will creep down the rusted sides and loosen it enough for me to pound out from above with a pipe.
Appreciate your help Sir.

I used some Kroil oil .
It worked for me.

[Getter-Done]

Here is my best nut for my pattern to make another one.

[Fourbrads]

Thanks Getter-Done. I have used Kroil, PB Blaster, WD-40, and now am trying Rustoleum's version of Evapo-Rust. Nut assemblies still fused to the tank. I'll keep at it!

[Getter-Done]

As they say.

Patience is a Virtue.

Here is my picture of the nut that I saved.
I soaked it overnight and was able to break it free from the bolt,
once I had it removed out of the Tank.



What is this version of Evapo-Rust you speak of?

I am always up to try New Stuff.

[Fourbrads]

Indeed it is. I've been soaking and cleaning for about a week now. Maybe it just needs another week.

Evapo-Rust is an incredibly effective rust dissolver that is non-toxic enough that you can handle it without gloves and dispose of it down the drain. I used a lot of it when I was working on the rusty bits of my old '57. It isn't cheap, but it can be reused a few times. The rustoleum stuff I found when I was trying to find the Evapo-rust at Lowe's the other day. They don't carry Evapo-Rust (apparently) so I am trying the rustoleum. I'll let you know how it goes.

[67RS/SSx2]

Has anyone found a source to reproduce the aux tank?

[Getter-Done]

I had thought of dissecting the tank that was gifted to me and draw up a blueprint.

Then get a Quote to see what it would cost.

There is a lot of welding involved and with the price of Sheetmetal,
and Sheetmetal brake work in several places,
DOM tubes for the thru bolts, pickup tube and tube for filler neck, tube for vent hose and
Also, one place that would have to be stamped for the outlet hose.

The only Dimension I don't have is the small tab on the side.

With this being said, I think the price would be well over $700.oo.

I don't think that would be affordable for most.

I can be done.


Then if there is Shipping involve.

[67RS/SSx2]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

With this being said, I think the price would be well over $700.oo.

I agree it would not be inexpensive. I have an original that is basically junk. There is a company in Ft Worth (about a 4 hour drive for me) that makes custom fuel tanks. I emailed them to see if they are interested in building one.

[Getter-Done]

I am Interested what they will build one for.

[PbFut]

Originally Posted by 67RS/SSx2

I agree it would not be inexpensive. I have an original that is basically junk. There is a company in Ft Worth (about a 4 hour drive for me) that makes custom fuel tanks. I emailed them to see if they are interested in building one.

Can't be any worse than my tank was.
It cleaned, sand blasted, sealed, and painted with perfect result. Lost the finished pic. It was so bad inside I cut two access holes and blasted most of the scale off. Brushed some more and then welded close. Sealed it with a tank restore kit without issue and works great. I even added a bung for a return line so I don't have to worry about over fill on the main. I use electric valves for selection of 3 tanks. The gauge, supply, and return are all switched with a simple rotation of a 3 way rotary switch in the position of the original factory switch.

[67RS/SSx2]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Can't be any worse than my tank was.
It cleaned, sand blasted, sealed, and painted with perfect result. Lost the finished pic. It was so bad inside I cut two access holes and blasted most of the scale off. Brushed some more and then welded close. Sealed it with a tank restore kit without issue and works great. I even added a bung for a return line so I don't have to worry about over fill on the main. I use electric valves for selection of 3 tanks. The gauge, supply, and return are all switched with a simple rotation of a 3 way rotary switch in the position of the original factory switch.

Any pics of the finished tank? Did you find a fuel sending unit that worked for you?

Thanks!

[PbFut]

I seem to have lost the finish pic of the tank in above shots. This is a passenger side tank a fellow forum member gave to me. It had a lower bedside door access filler neck that I converted to the OEM style. The parts for an OEM aux tank is easily revered to passenger side filler neck. You can see in this picture the original fill tube location. I welded shut and added tubes to connect to an OEM style filler neck. I also added return line and provision for sender as the original was void of all that. A word of caution: anyone thinking of welding on a gas tank, be sure all vapor (smell of gas) is gone. It only takes a few drops of gas to turn the tank into a very explosive container ready to light off with a simple spark.