One Piece Floor - Any recent updates on Quality or Installation?

[kxmotox247]

I had this problem on a couple of 67-72's. The cab corner and rocker don't meet properly at the pinch weld area. The easiest solution is to slice the cab corner and wedge it over. Then make a triangle filler piece. I'm sure it would have been okay to leave as is but I want it correct. I forgot to take a before picture so the before photo is the opposite side with the same problem.

[Lokin4AReason]

Nice work n great progress

[kxmotox247]

I've become addicted to using these. They work great for knocking down tack welds.

[kxmotox247]

This is why it's critical to have doors on during this process. Both sides fit different. Maybe I would have gotten lucky on the driver's side but the passenger side was WAY off. Nice consistent gap across the bottom. This rocker came with a ding. I epoxy primed the inside before putting them on too.

[kxmotox247]

The passenger side rocker fit very poorly. I reviewed some old photos and found that the gap was pretty large in the front with the factory rocker also. So maybe something is a little off with the cab and front pillar. Either way we are going to fix it.

The rear gap is somewhere around 3/8" and the front gap was almost 3/4." The rocker also stuck out 1/4" proud of the door. After careful observation I realized that I could remove the structural plate inside the rocker and twist/compress it into the shape I needed. Then I re-welded it. Sorry my pictures aren't the greatest. I drilled out the spot welds. I then took out the plate and slightly clearanced it. I stuck it back in and tack welded it at the bottom as the pivot point as I twisted it into place. I used a floor jack to help close the gap since I only have two hands. More tack welds. It now fits like it should.

[kxmotox247]

Lots of welding and grinding. I like to weld mine in completly but it's just a personal preference.

I usually remove the EDP coating in most cases. You gotta sand them for adhesion anyway. While sanding the coating off I found rust underneath the black EDP coating! Not enough to leave pits in the metal. They must have flash rusted in Taiwan before the coating was applied. I'm glad I stripped them.

A little bit of filler here and there and both sides are ready to prime.

[pdxhall]

Very nice work on the rockers.

[collins10672]

very nice work on all of the rust repair.

[OL SKOOL]

It is the details like that it is hard to find someone willing to take the time and effort to correct. Whoever owns that cab is lucky to have you on the job. Looks awesome.

[kxmotox247]

Thanks again guys. It's always a learning curve on any project even if you've done it before. I appreciate the compliments and hope the owner is happy. I got the back wall sprayed earlier this week. Yesterday I sprayed the dash. So the last remaining stuff to spray are the windshield posts, dash accents and kickpanels. I need to apply seam sealer yet on the floor and more POR 15 over the backsides of my welds in the kick panels. We're having an 80 degree day here so it's time to roll the cab out for a little warmth in the sun.

Still gotta spray the firewall too.

I chose Kirker Hot Rod Black - Satin for the dash color. There wasn't much left of the original black paint. It was very worn. They also make a Matte finish that probably would have been nice also.

[kxmotox247]

Dash and Glove Box accents painted. Windshield posts painted. Kick panels painted. Lots of masking.

The upper trans tunnel was spot welded in place originally. I decided to make it so it bolts in and is removable like the other half. I blasted the tunnel pieces and patched in a chunk of new metal where someone had crudely cut out for a shifter.

The hole pattern in this repro floor is pretty close. I had to slightly egg shape a couple of holes. Nothing ridiculous. The key is starting all of the bolts before actually tightening any of them. So again... this floor is pretty decent in this area.

[kxmotox247]

Firewall painted. Took a few versions of blue to get it right. It's so close. We decided that we want to be able to open the hood and everything in the engine compartment is crisp and clean.
Still gotta blend the rockers, cab corners and back wall.

[The Rocknrod]

Beautiful work kxmotox247.

[kxmotox247]

Thanks for the compliments! Like every project I see things I would do different but that's part of the learning process.

Not much remaining. Blue paint is on...still need to tweak in the patina and de-gloss the blue. Cab floor underside has been painted. Redo the seam sealer on the roof gutter. Debating whether to use a good 2 component 3M self leveling sealer or a single component moisture cure sealant. I'm concerned about how much the self leveling sealant may flow in the gutters on the inclined portion of the roof.

[rbruno68]

I am wondering what you plan to do as far as a coating on the area of the cab between the inner fender and the fender? Are you going to leave the paint or undercoat that area like the factory. I guess if it is a show truck, you may leave the paint. I need to eventually do some patch work in the driver side toe board on my 63. So that area will be new and I can't decide if I want to paint it like yours or paint and then undercoat. How well do you think that paint would hold up? Mine will definitely not be a daily driver or anything like that, but I do plan to have it on the road a bit around town.

[kxmotox247]

I really don't know just yet. The customer and his wife do drive their vehicles so perhaps I'll discuss that option with them. I didn't disassemble the truck so I'm a little in the dark on what's exposed. It makes sense to have a little something extra on there though. Not sure if they'll ever really show the truck or not.

Originally Posted by rbruno68

I am wondering what you plan to do as far as a coating on the area of the cab between the inner fender and the fender? Are you going to leave the paint or undercoat that area like the factory. I guess if it is a show truck, you may leave the paint. I need to eventually do some patch work in the driver side toe board on my 63. So that area will be new and I can't decide if I want to paint it like yours or paint and then undercoat. How well do you think that paint would hold up? Mine will definitely not be a daily driver or anything like that, but I do plan to have it on the road a bit around town.

[Braunschweiger]

Great job, I'm absolutely delighted.

[kxmotox247]

Thanks! Me too!

Originally Posted by Braunschweiger

Great job, I'm absolutely delighted.

So I sealed the gutter today. I used SEM 39387 - Self leveling seam sealer. It had the consistency of ketchup. I taped of the truck on the outside and then dropped a tape line on the inside edge of the gutter. Something to keep it clean as I knew I'd be bumping the nozzle around as I dispensed it.

There are about 6 'steps' on the nozzle. I trimmed mine off to almost the largest opening for a large width bead. I used one full 7oz package. I bought two just in case. It was just enough. If you use the heavier body sealant then I'm sure you will need 2 packages.

So here's my tips for whatever it's worth.

1) Move quickly. You have about 8 minutes before you run out of time to pull your tape if you mask off like I did. I could tell another minute later and I was going to end up being in trouble. It won't take me as long on the next one since I know how it's going to flow out.

2) Do both incline areas first. That way the sealant that is going to flow downhill isn't going to just pile up on sealant you applied in a lower area. I did both uphill areas first. Then I did across the back of the cab. Then go to your first incline area and start working from it to around the windshield area and then finally back to the other incline area. I was really worried that it was just going to flow right off those areas. It did cling somewhat but I did notice that at the bases of the incline area... they were a little deeper in sealant due to gravity flow but they will be fine.

3) Have a helper ready. This person can keep an eye on areas where it didn't flow out from edge to edge. You can add a little more to those areas if you work quickly. It flows right back into itself if you add to it quickly. Your helper can also be pulling tape. Remember the tape is there to help give you a really consistent egde. But you have to pull it before it sets.

4) I had some air bubbles appear. Your helper can be watching for those and use a nail to poke them. All is well if you get to them before it sets up. I had a few that weren't caught quick enough so I used the nail to drop a little into the subsequent hole where the bubble was.

5) I used wax and grease remover to wipe up a couple drops.

6) Yes this stuff is almost $60 with tax. But it's a far superior product than the single component moisture cure sealants. Those almost always end up cracking. I believe almost all of the rust problems in this truck are due to where water got in. The gutter is one of the first things I notice on these trucks. This looks good and will last a long time.

7) I used a 3M manual gun for this even though it's a SEM product. I like 3M stuff. My local jobber had sample beads and I chose the SEM product because it looked nicer and more likely to blend in color wise. The owner of this truck was pretty concerned that I was going to disturb the patina. Then I explained how if we didn't do this.. then the water was going to get right in and ruin our work.

8) I lowered the cab to where the rockers were sitting on the ground. That worked out for me but I'm 6'2". Way easier to walk around the cab now compared to having it back on the chassis. I'm so glad I did it now.

9) This cab does not have drain holes in the gutter. That's on the earlier models.

10) Read the tech sheet. This one says it's okay over bare metal, primer or properly sanded finishes. I believe these products are better off over a properly prepared epoxy primer though. I wire wheeled everything I could in the gutter. My thought is wire wheels aren't really giving your product a 'tooth'. It's more like polishing. You need to sand and scratch for the product to bite in. Then I sanded the bare metal with 80 grit. Its pretty hard to get in there with anything to help sand though. I used a small wooden block with 80 grit paper on it. Then in the really tight areas I rolled the sand paper up into a tight roll.

I'll edit this if I think of anything else.

[kxmotox247]

I hope all this info helps others. I didn't see what I was looking for with this generation of trucks when I started this project.

[kxmotox247]

Thanks Buddy! I hope all this helps others.

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Beautiful work kxmotox247.

[cwcarpenter98]

kxmotox247,
Your explanations and pictures definitely help. Thank you for contributing!
Definitely some tips and tricks I'll end up using eventually on my 63

[rbruno68]

Will you be filling the seems between the A pillar and piece that goes across the top of the windshield? What sealer will you use there? Again, I will need to do the same process on my 63. I can't imagine the self leveling will stick and not run out and down when it used right above the windshield where the A pillar meets the the top of the windshield.

Your photos and hints are very helpful. I am following this thread closely.

[kxmotox247]

I’m not exactly sure which area you’re speaking of. I guess I hadn’t planned on sealing anything else. But maybe there’s something i’m overlooking?

Originally Posted by rbruno68

Will you be filling the seems between the A pillar and piece that goes across the top of the windshield? What sealer will you use there? Again, I will need to do the same process on my 63. I can't imagine the self leveling will stick and not run out and down when it used right above the windshield where the A pillar meets the the top of the windshield.

Your photos and hints are very helpful. I am following this thread closely.

[rbruno68]

My phot shop skills are not very good, but I am thinking about the area on this truck that is circled. I thought seam sealer was supposed to be in there too.

[kxmotox247]

Ahhhh…. Yes. Legit question. I was thinking about the inside. I’ll probably use a very minimal amount of single component sealant there. It can be easily redone there later if it cracks. They make some heavy body 2 part sealers which would probably be the best choice. If I were going to paint the truck that’s what I’d use for sure. I felt like the gutter needed the best stuff since it would be really prone to allowing water in.
I may have to think on it though. There’s still a seam inside the cowl that needs a good sealer. Super hard to get to though.

Originally Posted by rbruno68

My phot shop skills are not very good, but I am thinking about the area on this truck that is circled. I thought seam sealer was supposed to be in there too.

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