New to paint

[ShinyC10]

I’m taking on the task of repainting my truck. It was painted in 2012 and has been scratched, rock chips and just the typical faded clear. On one of my doors, I’m running into an issue where it just scrapes off with my finger nail. I’m assuming it’s the clear but it won’t blend out smooth when I sand. I’ve tried from 180-320 grit dry to get blend it but it keeps a noticeably hard edge around the sanded area. Just curious what you guys think? I’m done a bunch of filler and dent repair on it and now I have this issue. Did I do all this other work just to have to strip the door? Previous shop did a base/clear paint job over the factory paint.

[ShinyC10]

Here are a couple photos

[hugger6933]

All of the clear has to come off. I hate to tell you but there is a lot of sanding in your future. Another reason its called bodywork not bodyfun. Jim

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

All of the clear has to come off. I hate to tell you but there is a lot of sanding in your future. Another reason its called bodywork not bodyfun. Jim

Thanks for the quick reply! I had a feeling it was gonna have to be that way. 120 or 180 should do the trick? Just gonna take the door off and hit it with the DA and have it 👍🏻

[mongocanfly]

What hugger said..
Get yourself a da sander if you dont have one

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

What hugger said..
Get yourself a da sander if you dont have one

Yes sir, I got a pneumatic da that should make decent work of it

[grumpyolddog]

Try compressed air and see if the clear coat will blow off, could save yourself some time and sandpaper.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by grumpyolddog

Try compressed air and see if the clear coat will blow off, could save yourself some time and sandpaper.

That’s the first thing I tried before diving in. Nothing flaked off. It’s just weird that it looks like it’s in good condition but where the little nicks in the paint are, you can just scratch the paint off with you finger and the slightest pressure. Now that I’m starting to sand it, it’s becoming difficult to feather, if it does at all. I’m assuming that means it didn’t stick well to the layer underneath? In the picture, one side feathers and the other doesnt. I’m using p240 cause the p320 wasn’t cutting quick enough.

[blue betty]

Originally Posted by ShinyC10

That’s the first thing I tried before diving in. Nothing flaked off. It’s just weird that it looks like it’s in good condition but where the little nicks in the paint are, you can just scratch the paint off with you finger and the slightest pressure. Now that I’m starting to sand it, it’s becoming difficult to feather, if it does at all. I’m assuming that means it didn’t stick well to the layer underneath? In the picture, one side feathers and the other doesnt. I’m using p240 cause the p320 wasn’t cutting quick enough.

Posted via Mobile Device

[blue betty]

Originally Posted by ShinyC10

Thanks for the quick reply! I had a feeling it was gonna have to be that way. 120 or 180 should do the trick? Just gonna take the door off and hit it with the DA and have it 👍🏻

I worked in the autobody business for 10 years saw a lot of this in the late 80s. You need to take all the clear off. Nyou’re probably going to need 100/120 grit. And you must take it all off. razor blade where you can. Good luck. Take your time. Don’t try to rush it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[hugger6933]

Try the razor blade if you get the blade at the proper angle [highly important!] like 45 degrees or so sometimes you can get the more loose clear to scrape right off yeah you need some 120 grit to make quicker work in my last post I was gonna suggest that you go 120, 180, then 220 before high build primer. Now, read closely if you have paint that is under the tight spots of clear and it is soft, it HAS to come off. Yes that means stripping past the base coat then you will need epoxy coating then high build over that. Any other questions I'd be glad to offer help. I have had my body shop since 1987 and in the 90's and early 00's when GM had massive recalls for both types of paint problems [clear failure and delam] [that is where the paint didnt stick tp the primer] I was the approved bodyshop for our area since our chevy dealer didnt met the standards. Jim

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by blue betty

I worked in the autobody business for 10 years saw a lot of this in the late 80s. You need to take all the clear off. Nyou’re probably going to need 100/120 grit. And you must take it all off. razor blade where you can. Good luck. Take your time. Don’t try to rush it.
Posted via Mobile Device

Check this out. So I pretty much sanded with 180 and figured I would take it all off BUT it started to feather at when I got out side this isolated area. It seemed to be right around the body line that had visible issues with the clear. No more chipping, no hard edges left, blended out nice. Weird. I figured it would have just kept pushing that hard edge of the clear back until the end of the panel but no.

[mongocanfly]

My 2cents, I wouldnt trust it.. I wouldnt stop till I removed all of it

[hugger6933]

looking back now that you think could it have been a repair area that was blended into the other paint? Once you past it was it more like normal? But, I've said hundreds of times it needs more sanding. Jim

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

looking back now that you think could it have been a repair area that was blended into the other paint? Once you past it was it more like normal? But, I've said hundreds of times it needs more sanding. Jim

Not entirely sure. The green spot is some reinforced filler I put over a ding from a bb gun. I sanded the entire door with 180 until everything was a dull finish. I figured if all the clear was bad/faulty, it would have flaked or not blended on the rest of the panel?