No traction

[HO455]

Lots of good input here. Just thought I should tell you anti-squat modifications are for road handling not drag racing. You want the rear end forced down under acceleration for better traction. (This wont happen until you get a certain amount of traction, so take care of some other things first.) That is one reason those exotic sports cars do poorly at the drags, they have lots of anti-squat. You can do one or the other well, but not both. The cheapest and easiest thing is learn how to drive the truck out of the hole with the traction you have. This is something every drag racer learns, from John Force on down. John Force wins fans with burnouts not races. With the rear gears you have once the wheels are spinning they are not likely to stop, so take it easy at the start. I used to run 13.70's in my GTO with 2:75 rear gears (@ 106 MPH) on L-60 street tires. Its lots of fun to pass them on the top end.

[C10Blackout]

I was told that anti squat would help since the truck is lowered 4 inches in the back with bringing the trailing arms back to stock level. So do I not want to install them at all when I get the trailing arms off?

[James the III]

Originally Posted by bhayes1

I knew everything there was to know about drag racing after I was half way through the first season of street outlaws, gas monkey, etc. :metal lol No but seriously.

[Mike C]

My truck is a leaf spring truck with a flip and re-drilled stock upper mount in the rear where I used stock length front shocks so I'm not the guy to ask! But the Bilstein 5100 (zinc bodied shock not yellow painted) is where I would spend my money.

Originally Posted by C10Blackout

I'm for sure going to replace my trailing arm bushings. I'm having trouble finding a good set of shocks for a 4 inch lowered setup. Any leads?

[James the III]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Pinion angle can certainly play a role, but for a 275-300 whp street vehicle it is just one part of the dynamic. It's never going to hook up with a single track and needs gear to ever be very good at launching. Too many of the coil spring trucks are dropped varying amounts and do hook up without altering pinion angle for this to be a cure all.

Worn out bushings in the trailing arms as well as ineffective shocks are better places to spend time/energy while the housing is out getting gears.

Anytime I've changed gears.. going to a steeper set 3.73/4.11/etc
it only made a traction issue worse.. 2 tires (posi) with a pinion angle that never loads the tires. will just spin, like the peg leg.. only now it's slides sideways.. looks cool, but doesn't get you moving
In a truck with nothing over the rear tires.. the pinion angle and instant center means EVERYTHING..
Could not ask for longer ladders to leverage off of.. but you need the correct settings.. the lowering it.. did it no favors here.. the pinion angle and long arm mounting points need to change..
Posi will help.. but not where I'd go first.