Remote solenoid install by pictures

[Andy4639]

VetteVet,
Now that is interesting using the relay. That should help on the load to using a relay no voltage drop with that setup either.

[67chevemall]

An easier fix to the problem is a cvr mini starter.
Mine never started hot, then I put the cvr in 7 years ago and have had zero problems.

CRV 5323OS





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This item is a brand new Protorque Series high torque gear reduction mini starter from CVR Electrical Products.



It fits small block Chevy 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 383, and 400 V8 engines and big block Chevy 366, 396, 402, 427, 454, and 502 V8 engines with the diagonal starter bolt pattern and 168 tooth flex plates. Weight is only 10 3/4 lbs.



Features:

Strong 1.9 HP Nippondenso motor
Gear reduction ratio of 4:1 (many competitor models are only 3:1)
Multi-position adjustable mounting plates eliminates hot start and clearance problems with headers and aftermarket oil pans
Completely sealed with rubber 'O' rings


CVR Protorque starters are 1/3 smaller, 40% lighter, have 80% more cranking power, and use 50% less amperage draw than OE stock non-gear reduction style starters. This means more cranking RPM's, less strain on the starter motor and battery, and a higher life expectancy.



CVR Protorque starters combine state of the art construction with exceptional craftsmanship and superior detailing to deliver outstanding, long lasting performance for your daily street cruiser, tow vehicle, street rod, circle track, dirt track, and drag strip performance racing engines.




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[MickMc]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Well Andy technically speaking the large cable is not the load, it is the power supply.
This diagram is just another way to get the positive battery power to the starter solenoid to the S terminal without the voltage drop that WrenchbenderRet explained earlier.
Your diagram works just as well and is actually the more common way of doing it.
Here is another version for you to chew on. It uses the Bosch relay and you won't have to pay for a solenoid.

Great idea, saved to my files.

But one of the greatest things about Mark at Mad Enterprises is that the cable to the starter is dead all the time except starting. So if that cable touches a hot header or a crash happens no shorting out, the cable is electrically dead while the motor is running.

I think I have purchased five or six kits from Mark, he is wealth of knowledge and is more than happy to talk to you and help out. If you call be prepared, and the phone rings busy he's on the phone and he's the only one who answers the phone and if he answers the phone when you call you're going to talk for at least thirty minutes.

Mick

[Andy4639]

I agree I talked for about a hour with him about a year ago on the voltage regulator setup I have.

[landarts]

I had asked the question earlier in the thread about the proper way to shim a starter . I did receive two shims in the box with the new starter and also had the 2 shims left over from the old starter. Is the shimming process done by how it sounds or is there a different method?

[Baketown Scotty]

I bought the remote solenoid kit from Summit and wired it just like the sketch in post #7 above, I think. I connected the positive battery cable to the battery first and when I went to connect the negative cable to the battery the starter began turning over. The key switch was in the off position. Any thoughts on where I went wrong? This all began when I was unable to start the 1969 Blazer, turn the key and got nothing. I assumed the headers got the solenoid too hot.

[kwmech]

Double check the location of the wires again. Nothing should be on the terminal of the main starter cable but the starter cable itself

[Baketown Scotty]

I will check it again this weekend when I get home. I'm fairly certainI just have the one cable from the main post on the starter solenoid up to the remote solenoid. I added the jumper from the main post on the starter solenoid to the small post "S". Thanks for the reply, I'll look it all over again.

[Rich72C10]

Thank you for this posting with photos!

I just got this kit myself, though I did not actually go looking for it. After talking to Mark at madelectrical.com for one of his wiring kits to upgrade my alternator he went on about this (unknown to me) problem LOL.

Though I have a radiator tank at this spot not sure where I'll mount the solenoid, since I am not sure there will be enough (safe) mounting space between the tank bracket and behind it. There is zero room forward of the tank bracket as that is where the 1st +12v battery junction is at.

Before talking to Mark, I hadn't really realized +12v was going to the starter all the time and then all that current flow up threw the ignition wiring/dash when starting the truck!