Building a 383 Stroker - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dubie · 07-05-2002, 09:11 AM

What all do I need to build one?

bigjimzlll · 07-05-2002, 09:44 AM

1. 350 block... .030 over bore
2. 3.75 stoke crank..a 400 sbc crank has that stroke, but has diferent size journals than a 350

3. pistons for a stroker
4. rods for the combo your going to run
5. machine work on block for rod clearence
6. machine work on rods to clear cam
7. oil pan
8. if motor is externally balanced, youll need a ext, balancd harmonic damper and flex plate(flywheel)

Low69CST · 07-05-2002, 09:55 AM

get on summits website: www.summitracing.com They have good products and stand behind what they sell. They also have good technical support. They will give you the best price and fast shipping.

I don't think you'll have to do much machining to make it work, execpt the .030 overbore. All the rods and the crank are the same dimensions as 400sb parts. I would definately buy a kit rather than buying separate individual parts. By buying a kit you know all your pieces were made on the same mics and should be machined with same equipment. If you just buy pistons here, rods here, crank from different place, if you have a problem, then each company will blame it on the other.

67_chevy_67 · 07-05-2002, 11:40 AM

how much does that 383 kit from summit cost

mikep · 07-05-2002, 12:25 PM

summit is one of the more expensive places to buy a 383 stroker crank . All you really need is the crank and the pistons, and flexplate/flywheel-balancer. Since you are somewhat limited in what cam you can use because of clearance issues you probably wont be revving it over 5500 or so due to cam limitations. So removing a little off the rod big ends wont be diffficult or damaging during mockup. Once you get the rods clearanced you can take it all apart and bring the assy to the balancer. Theres a few outfits selling 383 cranks on ebay. They are ALL repackaged SCAT cranks. Your best bet is to go with the INTERNALLY balanced 383 crank so you save the cost of a flywheel and a balancer and put it towards the cost of the crank. heres a few links with the last one being internally balanced. At $205 its a steal...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1841578028

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1840236408

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1841736602

RShaips · 07-05-2002, 05:42 PM

I am restoring a 72 4 x 4 that had a 383 in it, fastest and most quick revving vehicle I have ever owned. It had about 100,000 miles on it so I rebuilt it. I am not an expert by any means but I think you need a 400 crank with the mains turned to fit 350 rods,This motor had not been clearenced on the block for the longer stroke it had just been ground on the connecting rod bolts.there wasn't much clearance so we ground a little more.I think that there were 2 connecting bolts ground off a little for the block and 2 for the cam. I believe it has a 400 harmonic balancer. My is complete waiting for for start up.. Mine also had a 650 Holley ,edelbrock performer intake, MSD ingnition, distributor and headers. I can't wait to run it ! The increase in performance over a 350 is unbelievable. All I need now is a complete body for my motor and frame. Hope this helps

Longhorn Man · 07-05-2002, 06:13 PM

Why not take all that money and build a 400?

mikep · 07-05-2002, 06:18 PM

Weak , thinwall siamesed blocks that overheat ring a bell? I wouldnt build one unless I was using a bowtie or decent aftermarket block despite anyone elses annectdotal evidence. Ive seen a few with holes in the cylinders and blown out head gaskets, cracked webbing etc from overheating after hard use. When they were plentiful you couldnt give one away except to someone who wanted to regrind the crank.Now that most of them have broken theyre suddenly in demand. I think not.

Longhorn Man · 07-05-2002, 06:22 PM

As long as the holes are drilled, there's nothing wrong with them. I'm sure there was some crappy castings, but there were duds in all the engines.
Wish I knew who started the stupid 'siamesed cylinders' name...they are not joined, therefor not siamesed. Just a personal thing though I guess.
Safe to say, anything stil in one piece today, (last 400 s.b. made in '80) is a solid motor.
Besides, you could have the block sonic checked and then built up and still be way ahead on $$ over a 383, PLUS you'd come out with more torque by defult.
No replacement for displacement.

Suicide-D · 07-05-2002, 06:36 PM

I'm not going to goof around on my next motor...I dumped alot of money in my current power plant...I'm going to go Big Block Ram Jet 502....and I can get away from a @$%&* carburetor.... the edelbrock is crapping out yet again....

jlmtrout · 07-06-2002, 06:28 PM

I got my 383 kit from Speed-o-motive. Kit comes with crank, rods, bearings, pistons. Wherever you get it, spend the extra money (They did mine for me) and have everything balanced. Also, there is some minor grinding on the block for rod clearance on the bottom end. Good luck and keep on truckin'!----------Jerry

Low69CST · 07-06-2002, 07:38 PM

I'm running a 415 stroker in my truck. 3.832 inch stroke. I nad no clearance or cam clearance issues with block. I've seen several 67-72 with 400's in them. My dad even had one that had a 400 and was 4x4. Zero overheating problems. The block i'm using was used in a pulling truck for a short time. It was checked by 2 different machine shops. Both said that it was perfect. I think most of the 400 horror stories were started by all the dirt track people that used these motors up.

07-05-2002, 09:11 AM	#1
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	Building a 383 Stroker What all do I need to build one? __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

07-05-2002, 09:44 AM	#2
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	1. 350 block... .030 over bore 2. 3.75 stoke crank..a 400 sbc crank has that stroke, but has diferent size journals than a 350 3. pistons for a stroker 4. rods for the combo your going to run 5. machine work on block for rod clearence 6. machine work on rods to clear cam 7. oil pan 8. if motor is externally balanced, youll need a ext, balancd harmonic damper and flex plate(flywheel) __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

07-05-2002, 09:55 AM	#3
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	get on summits website: www.summitracing.com They have good products and stand behind what they sell. They also have good technical support. They will give you the best price and fast shipping. I don't think you'll have to do much machining to make it work, execpt the .030 overbore. All the rods and the crank are the same dimensions as 400sb parts. I would definately buy a kit rather than buying separate individual parts. By buying a kit you know all your pieces were made on the same mics and should be machined with same equipment. If you just buy pistons here, rods here, crank from different place, if you have a problem, then each company will blame it on the other. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks Last edited by Low69CST; 07-05-2002 at 09:59 AM.

07-05-2002, 11:40 AM	#4
67_chevy_67 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: BC,CANADA Posts: 34	how much does that 383 kit from summit cost __________________ if u know any one with a 67 chev c-10 shortbox for sale tell them to email me at rylan_hodge@hotmail.com

07-05-2002, 12:25 PM	#5
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	summit is one of the more expensive places to buy a 383 stroker crank . All you really need is the crank and the pistons, and flexplate/flywheel-balancer. Since you are somewhat limited in what cam you can use because of clearance issues you probably wont be revving it over 5500 or so due to cam limitations. So removing a little off the rod big ends wont be diffficult or damaging during mockup. Once you get the rods clearanced you can take it all apart and bring the assy to the balancer. Theres a few outfits selling 383 cranks on ebay. They are ALL repackaged SCAT cranks. Your best bet is to go with the INTERNALLY balanced 383 crank so you save the cost of a flywheel and a balancer and put it towards the cost of the crank. heres a few links with the last one being internally balanced. At $205 its a steal... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1841578028 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1840236408 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1841736602 __________________ No truck :-(

07-05-2002, 05:42 PM	#6
RShaips Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Augusta Missouri Posts: 804	I am restoring a 72 4 x 4 that had a 383 in it, fastest and most quick revving vehicle I have ever owned. It had about 100,000 miles on it so I rebuilt it. I am not an expert by any means but I think you need a 400 crank with the mains turned to fit 350 rods,This motor had not been clearenced on the block for the longer stroke it had just been ground on the connecting rod bolts.there wasn't much clearance so we ground a little more.I think that there were 2 connecting bolts ground off a little for the block and 2 for the cam. I believe it has a 400 harmonic balancer. My is complete waiting for for start up.. Mine also had a 650 Holley ,edelbrock performer intake, MSD ingnition, distributor and headers. I can't wait to run it ! The increase in performance over a 350 is unbelievable. All I need now is a complete body for my motor and frame. Hope this helps

07-05-2002, 06:13 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Why not take all that money and build a 400?

07-05-2002, 06:18 PM	#8
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Weak , thinwall siamesed blocks that overheat ring a bell? I wouldnt build one unless I was using a bowtie or decent aftermarket block despite anyone elses annectdotal evidence. Ive seen a few with holes in the cylinders and blown out head gaskets, cracked webbing etc from overheating after hard use. When they were plentiful you couldnt give one away except to someone who wanted to regrind the crank.Now that most of them have broken theyre suddenly in demand. I think not. __________________ No truck :-(

07-05-2002, 06:22 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	As long as the holes are drilled, there's nothing wrong with them. I'm sure there was some crappy castings, but there were duds in all the engines. Wish I knew who started the stupid 'siamesed cylinders' name...they are not joined, therefor not siamesed. Just a personal thing though I guess. Safe to say, anything stil in one piece today, (last 400 s.b. made in '80) is a solid motor. Besides, you could have the block sonic checked and then built up and still be way ahead on $$ over a 383, PLUS you'd come out with more torque by defult. No replacement for displacement. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 07-05-2002 at 06:30 PM.

07-05-2002, 06:36 PM	#10
Suicide-D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH. Posts: 1,408	saving my pennies I'm not going to goof around on my next motor...I dumped alot of money in my current power plant...I'm going to go Big Block Ram Jet 502....and I can get away from a @$%&* carburetor.... the edelbrock is crapping out yet again....

07-06-2002, 06:28 PM	#11
jlmtrout Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Memphis, Tn Posts: 194	I got my 383 kit from Speed-o-motive. Kit comes with crank, rods, bearings, pistons. Wherever you get it, spend the extra money (They did mine for me) and have everything balanced. Also, there is some minor grinding on the block for rod clearance on the bottom end. Good luck and keep on truckin'!----------Jerry

07-06-2002, 07:38 PM	#12
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I'm running a 415 stroker in my truck. 3.832 inch stroke. I nad no clearance or cam clearance issues with block. I've seen several 67-72 with 400's in them. My dad even had one that had a 400 and was 4x4. Zero overheating problems. The block i'm using was used in a pulling truck for a short time. It was checked by 2 different machine shops. Both said that it was perfect. I think most of the 400 horror stories were started by all the dirt track people that used these motors up. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks



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