1 ton axels on 1/2 ton frame...problem?

[500HP/SB]

I had never given this much thought untill a friend brought it up. i plan on putting a 14bFF/dana60 or 14/44 combo under my 1/2 ton truck to help my piece of mind due to my heavy right foot, 35's and 450+hp.

Is there a potential problem with all that wieght/mass and the 1/2 ton frame holding it together? Can the frame handle the tortional flex and all of the new strains? I know people put big axels under thier litle toyotas and stuff so i dont see it being a big deal.

Thanks

[bouncytruck]

I't is a very common swap. You may want too check and possibly reinforce the frame around the steering box. Too much stress/old age can cause cracks. There are kits available for the '73+ frames, but you'll either have to modify it for your truck or fab something up yourself.

[1FaastC10]

nope, no problems. there are literally hundreds of guys on CK5 with that setup, i've got it on my own truck. the frame really doesnt "support" 1 ton axles, or any axle for that matter. axles, wheels and tires are all unsprung weight, and have no bearing on the suspension's capacity whatsoever.

[500HP/SB]

ok thanks....i know the axels are unsprung weight, i was just thinking about putting one ton forces (payload) on 1/2 ton rails....as for the steeting box i had kinda heard of that. i will probly just fab up my own if i feel its neccesary. If you have any pictures of frames reinforced at the steering box, i would appriciate it.

[poff]

The steering box kit for '73 and up: The outside piece fits at least back to '69. The rest you may be able to modify.

[GenIIIShorty]

another thing to consider: the u-joints are different, you need to get hybrid u-joints for your driveshaft to axle. unless you just run 1-ton driveshafts or 3/4 driveshafts, depending. common swap so the u-joints are out there.

[Americanrider]

The best fab would be "Boxing" your frame, it's a common thing to do it to all the older (pre-78) Jeeps. Use flat stock steel and make templates out of cardboard then cut/gind the steel to size & weld in place. It's best to do it in small sections of about 8-10 inches each and leave some access holes along the way for threading line & wires. Just be sure your gas/brake lines & wires are out of the way before you weld.

[Bobalouie]

I dont know if I would box the frame on one of these trucks. Much of the suspension articulation comes from the fact that the frames on these trucks flex a bunch. Boxing would increase the torsional rigidity and not allow the frame to flex, which would hamper off road capability. Of course this is assuming that you are going to use your truck off road, which is why you would want the extra beefy diffs.

[1969 GMC]

Originally Posted by Bobalouie

I dont know if I would box the frame on one of these trucks. Much of the suspension articulation comes from the fact that the frames on these trucks flex a bunch. Boxing would increase the torsional rigidity and not allow the frame to flex, which would hamper off road capability. Of course this is assuming that you are going to use your truck off road, which is why you would want the extra beefy diffs.

there are ways around that...I view frame flex as a bad thing, for a number of reasons. a popular swap is to take a longer leaf spring and use it for flex instead. or, depending on how deep your pockets are (and how good your fab skills are), you could use links and coilovers for the suspension.

[1FaastC10]

Originally Posted by Bobalouie

I dont know if I would box the frame on one of these trucks. Much of the suspension articulation comes from the fact that the frames on these trucks flex a bunch. Boxing would increase the torsional rigidity and not allow the frame to flex, which would hamper off road capability. Of course this is assuming that you are going to use your truck off road, which is why you would want the extra beefy diffs.

the trucks were not designed to flex the frame as a means of "articulation". constantly bending and tweaking the frame causes the rivets that hold the crossmembers to work loose, and cracks to develop in the frame.

[skid]

A stiffer frame is always better. One advantage of a stiffer frame is that it allows a softer suspension for better ride. New cars and trucks are always coming out with stiffer frames than their predecessors, to improve handling and ride.

[1FaastC10]

again in english please? that makes absolutely no sense. it doesnt hurt anything to have a soft suspension on a flexy frame.

[Roper]

Hi all
I have an 81 half ton that im seriously considering upgrading the axles on. Right now it sits on a 10 bolt up front with a 12 bolt in the rear.
Now if I go the junkyard route I will end up getting a 14 bolt for the back and I will probabally just end up taking my front axle to a shop to get 3/4 ton spindles,etc, to match up with the new 14 bolt rear. Oh yeah my truck currently has 3.07 and I want 4.11 so if I will have to get the ring and pinion changed on my front axle to match the 14 bolt rear that I might get for it.
I would like to get a junkyard Dana 60 for the front but these axles are very scarse and expensive up here in Alberta.
I guess my questions are #1 Can I just buy junkyard driveshafts that will fit my transfer case and swapped in axles?
#2 Maybe I would be better off just buying new full floating axles for my truck? Does anybody (Aftermarket) make affordable axles?
#3 I use my truck for Ranch work, hauling horses, feed, etc. Im always hauling stuff and a lot of the time im off road. Really I should be using a one ton. I was also told that I would be crazy to put another 12 bolt on it. Apparently its hard to get some parts for 12 bolts? So I guess another option would be just to put a ten bolt in the rear. Then swap ring gear in both axles.
But then again because of the price of gas maybe I should just sell my truck and buy a newer one ton diesel?
Answers or oppinions?

[Bobalouie]

Originally Posted by skid

A stiffer frame is always better. One advantage of a stiffer frame is that it allows a softer suspension for better ride. New cars and trucks are always coming out with stiffer frames than their predecessors, to improve handling and ride.

New cars and trucks are also IFS and need a stiffer frame in order to work correctly. Having a suspension that articulates, and a flexy frame is IMHO a benifit off road, because you have two things working for you to keep the tires on the ground.

[MAC67]

yeah when i pulled the doghouse off my blazer to drop in the 468 i did a check on ym frame since im runnin 40's , i notiuced there had already been an extra plated added in there , only thing is it sure didnt look like any homemade pice ive ever seen , and also its not bolted in or wlded , it has factory style rivits holding it in , kinda odd i thought , i expected to see a big bead of weld and some plug welds , but nope theres about 4 factory rivits holding it plus the 4 steering box bolts

[1FaastC10]

Originally Posted by Bobalouie

...and a flexy frame is IMHO a benifit off road, because you have two things working for you to keep the tires on the ground.

yeah, that's great, until it cracks your frame all to hell and you end up with a worthless pile of scrap metal blocking the trail somewhere.

[Bobalouie]

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

yeah, that's great, until it cracks your frame all to hell and you end up with a worthless pile of scrap metal blocking the trail somewhere.

Well, I suppose that can happen, but I am not talking about rock crawling or extreme 4x4ing. If you are going to do that stuff, there are plenty of better choices than a 67-72 truck. I also have never seen or heard of that happening on our series of trucks, but thats not to say that it doesnt occur. I just dont think (my opinion only, your experience may be different)that it is that big of a problem for 95% of the folks trail riding their rigs.

[1FaastC10]

you havent been around Chevy trucks very long if you dont know that the frames under them are extremely prone to cracking when subjected to anything other than grocery store duty.