Under Hood Bracket's Painting

[twoskies]

Morning All

pulling the motor on my 72 C10, going to clean up the engine bay while its out, i had the inner fenders and core support powder coated about 3 years ago, they have a few spots on them

Prefer a satin finish

can i clean and sprayover the powder coat and look good or should i have them redone
next is the brackets, alternator , power steering, etc
what paint are you using

not a gloss type finish guy, more of a satin or flat if need be

heres a picture of engine bay right now

Thanks for any replies

[A1971Blazer]

powder coat is an excellent base for paint...a friend of mine that restores cars, powder coats the entire car body before painting

[Jason Banks]

From a can I love the Krylon 1613. It leave a beautiful easy to apply even finish.
https://www.grainger.com/product/KRY...G81?opr=PDPDAM

They used to sell it retail, but I think they have been forced to sell a different formula retail. They one I link is the 'industrial' version that is still the good formulation. K01613A07 You won't find it in stores and will have to order it.

For just about everything I paint is spray it first with SPI black epoxy and then use Medallion MRS-4200 - https://medallionrefinish.com/produc...rylic-urethane
It is also easy to spray and leave a beautiful satin finish. You have to call them to order it.

[Davidf]

I like Rustoleum satin black. Plus, you can get it in 1/2 pint cans to spray with your paint gun. Durable, looks close to factory and easy to apply.

The main drawback is that it is slow drying.

BTW, Satin black and semi-gloss is the same sheen.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I like Rustoleum satin black. Plus, you can get it in 1/2 pint cans to spray with your paint gun. Durable, looks close to factory and easy to apply.

The main drawback is that it is slow drying.

BTW, Satin black and semi-gloss is the same sheen.

I use the Rustoleum as well...I found that if you reduce it about 15-20% with acetone, it really sprays out nice, dries faster, and seems to leave a more durable finish.

[sick472]

I use the Rustoleum brand as well in the semi-gloss. If it is in a spray bomb...apply a light to medium coat and wait until it tacks up (20 to 30 minutes thereabouts) and apply the second coat. If you let it sit for a few hours or a day or so and then apply a second coat, it will likely react badly with cracks and/or blisters. Then you get to start over. This is mentioned in the instruction on the spray bomb, but I have even found it to happen days/weeks later.

I also use it from a can mixed with acetone through my paint sprayer and a couple coats does a real nice job. This approach seems to be much more tolerable to a second coat after a longer waiting period with respect to it reacting and cracking/blistering.

[dagnabbitt]

Personally, I use Duplicolor Satin Black Engine Enamel on everything. Even wheels. I have some some wheels I painted with this stuff years ago that still has not a spec of rust or peel, and I have not been kind to them, either.

I think it is what you are looking for. I particularly like that it can be wiped clean easily, too many matte or satin finishes are hard to keep spotless because the shine is in the finish itself; being an enamel with ceramic resin means that there is a hardness to it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-de1634

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

I use the Rustoleum as well...I found that if you reduce it about 15-20% with acetone, it really sprays out nice, dries faster, and seems to leave a more durable finish.

Yes, agreed. I do the same and it sprays well through my HVLP gun. However, cleaning up the gun is a pain.

[indymachinist]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I like Rustoleum satin black. Plus, you can get it in 1/2 pint cans to spray with your paint gun. Durable, looks close to factory and easy to apply.

The main drawback is that it is slow drying.

BTW, Satin black and semi-gloss is the same sheen.

I have found that too with the satin and semi gloss and was annoyed. Haha

[NoNeck]

I am using Eastwood paints and have been impressed. The company recently introduced a 2K Epoxy Primer that comes in a rattle can. My compressor is too small for spray gun painting, so the rattle can seemed worth a try.

You will need a quality paint respirator, gloves, safety glasses and a head covering. A disposable paint suit would be advisable as well as good ventilation. The 2K Epoxy Primer is a true 2 stage paint. You shake the can for 2 minutes then using a supplied button you pierce into the bottom of the can releasing the catalyst. After 2 more minutes of shaking you are ready to paint. More details can be found at eastwoodco.com.

After curing for 48 hours, I applied the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black. It sprayed just like a paint gun and coverage was excellent. A little pricey at $21.99 for the Primer and $27.99 for the Chassis paint. Well worth it.

POP

[DA71Grande]

I like Eastwood paints i use the under hood black..

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-un...ack-paint.html

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I used Napa's Underhood black for the inner fenders, underside of the hood and brackets. Nice semi-flat finish and covers really well with even 1 coat.

[Accelo]

twoskies, your engine bay looks great. Nice job.

For what it's worth;
I use satin black power coating. I have a car I restored in the lathe 80's. Everything in the engine bay was painted but the air-cleaner. It was powder coated. Now 30 years later the air-cleaner looks like new and the paint all requires repainting.
Cheers

[GASoline71]

I use either Duplicolor or Eastwood's Chassis black too. Great factory look to both of them.

Gary

[FRCvette]

NoNeck, I have been looking at the Eastwood paint for my chassis. How many cans of each does it take?

[NoNeck]

Originally Posted by FRCvette

NoNeck, I have been looking at the Eastwood paint for my chassis. How many cans of each does it take?

It took 4 cans of the 2K Aerospray Gray Epoxy to paint the entire frame of my son's '67 C10 Shortbed. I applied two coats allowing 48 hours curing time between each coat. If I had it to do over, I would have used the Black Primer. It would have made it easier to cover with the Satin Black Chassis paint.

I also used 4 cans of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black. Again, this was for 2 coats of paint. The total cost was a little over $225, but there is no paint guns to clean afterward which is a plus.

Eastwood does have Quart cans of both 2K Epoxy and Catalyst as well as the Extreme Chassis Black and Reducer.

I hope this helps.

POP

[FRCvette]

Helps a lot thank you. I will be ordering paint very soon.

[twoskies]

Going back together. Had to grind the crankshaft .10. Everything else looked good. Not the valve covers I’m using. Try to get back in truck and fire by end of week

[LNP]

Looking good. As for the powder coat versus spray paint. Being a powder coater I may be bias but one thing is for sure powder will always be more durable and resistant to stuff then spray paint. If you wanna paint great, then use a good automotive grade paint so you will get the strength and durability of a good quality paint. Cost does have a lot to do with everyones decisions on what they will use. You can paint over powder coat as was said earlier. I have done older motorcycle tank, fenders etc. repairing all the dents and eneding in a epoxy primer so the customer will have a strong nase to paint over. They get the OE paint used with the model of bike for a original finish. I myself powder coat the inside of my fender and doors. Powder will go places paint will not. Hope this helps.

[twoskies]

Got her. Izzy. Done. Now to put some miles on her. Thanks for the responses

[LNP]

Looks great. Get out there and enjoy it now.

[68 C10 Driver]

That looks really great! I know that you must be happy with it...I would be.

Thanks for the thread, great info from everyone!

[cericd]

Looks great! What did you end up using to paint the inner fenders?

[MikeB]

I love this stuff for brackets. And if it looks like it didn't go on smoothly, come back in 5 minutes and you'll see that it flowed into a perfect finish.

[twoskies]

Hey
Thanks for the Response's
little issue since i got it home last nite, compression kept blowing the pcv valve out, aftermarket valve covers, easy fix, found a thicker one at AutoZone

after starting, has a ticking sound coming from passenger side close to the distributor, might be the distributor, dont know, mechanic stopping by in the morning to check
good thing is it doesnt sound like a metal to metal ticking
oil pressure is pretty much pegged at idle and warmed up, temp stays close to middle

as far as the inner fenders and touchup, i used duplicolor etch primer after scuffing and taping, then duplicolor flat black, came out really close, after a few days , i think i can wetsand the edges and probably wont notice it

Thanks Again