1964 C10 project with questions

[Alloyvert]

New guy here as I recently acquired a '64 LWB custom cab and starting to address a host of little issues. My first round of parts just arrived from Classic Parts including a complete turn switch switch assembly and lever.

The existing switch was a mess and I am trying to determine what type/size screw was used to secure the lever to the switch. I tried searching and came up blank. Any input appreciated.

I also ordered a new front alternator harness that includes the headlights to firewall plug and could use some input on how the headlight connector at the firewall unplugs. I tried several times pulling on it to no avail. I assume it just should pull out and the front harness stays attached to the firewall, correct? Are they any connector catches??

Thanks in advance!

[The Rocknrod]

Headlight harness comes out of the firewall with a Packard 56 type plug, if original it could be pretty corroded in there and difficult to pull apart. It's not the only thing in that plug as shown ion this diagram. There is a 5 wire plug and a 3 wire plug coming out of the same grommet on the firewall up by the master brake cylinder.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=629550
And the firewall holes shown here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...00&postcount=5

[Alloyvert]

Thanks. But I just realized my post was incorrectly worded as I am dealing with the radiator support headlight connector.

[The Rocknrod]

The turn signals are in the hood and don't go through the radiator support.
The headlamps do and are Packard 56 connectors.

[Alloyvert]

To be clear, I am trying to remove the headlight engine side connector out of the rubber radiator support plug and it is not budging. I assume it is just stuck, but trying to damage the front connector.

Also could use the turn signal lever screw mounting specs. It appears it should be a #8 or 10 5/8 inch long large head screw, correct?

Thanks!

[AcampoDave]

I'd say your right. It's likely stuck. I spray stuff like that down with WD40 since it conducts electricity and evaporates decently. It's good for stuff like that. The female side of the plug is in the engine bay and that is the side made to be pulled out. The male side goes thru the hole in the support and has a rubber skirt around it with a groove cut around the middle perimeter to hold it fast in the hole. If you unplug the engine side you should be able to kinda pry at the skirt on the male side and pull it thru toward the radiator.

[Alloyvert]

Success as a couple forceful tugs and the connector was removed. One of the pins was really stuck and the wire pulled through the rubber radiator support. But was easily removed with a needle nose. Next up is swapping out the hacked up alternator harness along with a new voltage regulator. Hoping this will resolve the charging issue and I can move onto the next issue... which is a deformed heater core inlet tube that is causing the hose to not seal.

[AcampoDave]

Great. Hopefully your other plugs are better off

[Alloyvert]

The new harness and voltage regulator resolved the charging issues. Next up was swapping out the failed turn signal assembly. Man, these old cars are so easy to work on. It took longer to clean up the column parts than it did to actually install the new parts. Another item checked off as both directions work as they should.

The truck also has a very old under dash switch that had me puzzled originally. But I noticed it was wired in series with the turn signal wiring and turns out to be an emergency flasher. It looks like it was a GM accessory part as it has a bowtie on the knob that lights up/flashes. And with a new flashing unit installed, it also works.

Next up is a stuck fuel gauge (stuck just below 1/4 tank). Based on what I read, this is probably a sunken float. But I am going to do some other tests tonight to confirm the wiring is good.

[AcampoDave]

The optional flasher switch is a nice score. Glad you got it going again.

[Alloyvert]

Fairly sure the fuel gauge is working as I completed some of the tests I found here and get the correct needle movement with the sender wire removed (pegged to full) and also when grounded (pegged empty). Since I had no idea how much fuel was in the tank, I attached the meter and watched the resistance as I added 5 gallons. It changed from 2 to 9 ohms and the gauge crept up to 1/3. So think I am good.

Spent the entire day tinkering and after confirming the battery died, moved on swapping the rusted battery tray. Then on to the distorted heater core inlet tube that wants to leak. And went down the bunny hole of removing the heater assembly to access the core. Still not sure if the inlet is salvageable as I had to really crank down the clamp to stop the drips, I decided there was no way the heater was going back in without a quick clean up.

Cleaned up all the parts in the blast cabinet except the blower and will do a quick paint job next weekend. I searched unsuccessfully to see how the fan comes off the motor and came up empty. Any tricks to remove it?