5.3L DBW cruise hookup
I'm getting ready to hook up my cruise on my DBW 5.3L
I'll be using a Dakota Digital cruise control switch / turn signal, HND-3. I lost any/all instructions that came with the cruise control switch. There are 4 wires on it, does anyone know which wires go where? (I have the wiring diagram for the ECM). |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
I don't think that handle will work. I have bought one of those and returned it. I bought a NOS GM cruise stalk and that will not work either. The LS cruise control needs an on switch signal and then the set/coast and resume/accel are normaly open momentary closed switches. The HND-3 and all the others are normally closed momentary open.
I believe the only one that will work is the square surface mounted switch that dakota digital and rostra CC sell. |
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Add a relay to reverse the functions... That is what I am doing with my ididit cruise control switch.
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If so please post a diagram and pictures as I know quite a few who have or are having problems with the cruise. I have not gotten that far on my engine install but have researched quite a bit. I was considering a relay also but it should be easier than that. Why can't someone just make a lever with the correct switching? There are enough swaps going on it would probably be worth it? |
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Couldn't you take a stalk off like a 96 S10 Blazer and install it on the stalk for the turn signal on your truck. I'm almost to this point and was going to try this possibly.
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I can provide you with a diagram, I don't have the time right now. I got the information from John @ Speartech, I had him do my harness. |
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I was talking with an electrical technician buddy at work today and we were discussing using some relays too, but if someone has a diagram already it would save some time. I'd like to use this handle since it looks like it should be there.
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Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
OK, I did a little research today and developed a wiring diagram that should work using 2 relays.
There are 2 issues with the Digital Dakota turn signal/cruise switch. First, the Set button is normally closed, and needs to be normally open Second, when you push the set button, it energizes the resume/accelerate wire. Once I get it wired up and working correctly, I will draw up a wiring diagram. Heck, maybe I'll go to the effort and take a bunch of pictures to make a "how to" thread. |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
Please do.
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OK, here is the diagram I came up with and should work based on the info from the Dakota Digital HND-3 info I found and the '04 ECM wiring diagrams I'm using.
It probably won't be until this weekend that I can install and test it all. |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
Ok here what I got from John at Speartech.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...affair/IMG.jpg My Ididit cruise cont lever. http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/P1020690.jpg |
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Here's what I'm using. Came off of a 1981 Chevy van, and if you can find one they work great. They're a three wire switch, but you can pop the cover off and replace with a four wire switch (the salvage yards are full of them) and it wires up just like factory. The inside switch is exactly the same, just the wires are different.
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I bet some could order a brand new one if they didn't want to search salvage yards for them. I had already gotten the DD switch. |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
I hooked mine up using another headlight switch. My truck had a manual choke, so I put the extra headlight switch in that hole. Pull the switch to enable cruise, rotate the dimmer on and then off to activate. I didn't really care to have the accel function and wanted to keep everything as factory appearing as possible. My truck looks 100% factory with the exception of the '92 bench seat.
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The thought crossed my mind to use a turn signal handle with the wiper switch included in it, and then use the original wiper switch to work my line lock but decided against it for safety reasons. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do for my line lock. |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
Good subject. Can't wait to see some more solutions to this problem.
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anybody have their cruise working yet?
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Anybody using a cruise switch have theirs working?
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I got mine wired up today, but have not verified it is working correclty.....tomorrow.
Here is the "how to" thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=398006 |
Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
Tested it out today and it works great! I never knew cruise control was so awesome....ha ha ha
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Well, all I can say is it DOES work. My cruise works perfectly, and the insides ARE the same. You have to start by pulling the set/coast button off (it's just pressed on, and takes very little to pull it off) then use a pick to pull out the star washer that holds the switch in, then pop the cover off and the switch will come out. The three wire switch inside is dimensionally EXACTLY the same as the later model four wire switch. You also have to re-use your original on/off portion of the switch (it to also is just lightly pressed onto the switch) then reassemble by putting the cover back on, put the star washer back in, and just press the set/coast button back on.
I do know what I'm talking about, and if you broke your switch because you didn't know how to take it apart, I apologize for not being more clear about how it's done, but if you were unsure, you should have asked before just tearing into it. Slamming someone on the forum never helps the situation. |
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i was wrong;)
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My vague statment wasn't meant to be a "how to" article, I was just stating what I had done.
But anyway, which part did you break? The wires that you pulled off, were they from the original 3 wire switch? All you need is the lever (the stalk, the black plastic part the switch goes in), the cover with the on/off/resume printed on it, and the small black slider portion of the switch (the part you physically move to turn it on, it has the white line on it). The actual switch (it's about an inch long and about 1/4 by 1/4, and has the four wires soldered onto it) you don't take apart. This is what you need from the later turn signal lever. I'm not home or I would post pictures of everything. As long as you didn't completely destroy your original lever and you have those three main pieces, it should be fixable. If you broke the actual four wire switch (the small part with the wires soldered to it), PM me your shipping address and I'll send you another one, as I have alot of them because I pulled several apart looking for one with the longest wires on it. However they are all the same, they all have about 4 or 5 inches of wire on them. |
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:lol: thanks man... you just made me feel like a real jerk:lol: i do apprieciate your offer and help. i'm going to go to pick in pull this morning to see what i can find. and btw, i was taking the 3 wire one apart while its still on the truck. tried to pull the wires out through the column. so pulling off the wires was my retarded mistake. i just need the 4 wire switch and i think it will be alright. i'll keep you updated
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Got your PM. I'm not home right now, but will be by sunday. If you can wait until then I'll post some pictures of how to do the whole thing, and I'll send you another switch.
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much appreciated man... i'll wait so i don't tear more stuff up;)
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1- This is what the switch came from, 4th gen F body, but almost all later model GM cars are the same. 2- Pry out the set/coast button, it's just lightly pressed on, and remove the star washer part that holds the switch in. A small pick works best for this. 3- The star washer 4- The switch. Note it has 4 wires on it, and also note the position of the slider portion of the switch. 5- Pull the slider off, it's just sitting in there and easily comes off. |
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6- This is the old lever, note it has only 3 wires.
7- Carefully pry this cover off. 8- Remove the slider part, notice how much smaller it is than the newer one, it's because of the positioning of the slider in the newer stalk, but comes off exactly the same. 9- Pry off the set/coast button 10- Now remove the star washer from your original. |
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11- Pull out the old switch.
12- Bad pic, but it shows the old switch with 3 wires and the new with 4 wires. 13- Side by side comparison, switch is dimensionally the same. 14- Slide the switch back in. 15- Put slider back on. |
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16- Re-install cover, you might have to glue this, I had to because it rattled around and annoyed me.
17- Put the star washer back in and install the set/coast button by pressing it on, just press a little harder than you would if you were using the cruise. 18- The original switch had about 18 inches of wire on it, where as the newer ones only have 5 or so. So I took another switch and used just the wires to lengthen them some. These should be soldered together. I also got the other side of the plug so you can unplug it should you ever need to remove the column. Thats really all there is to it. It may seem like alot, but once you get started on it, you will see it's not all that difficult at all. |
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thank you for the write up man! i never got the switch this weekend. i was hoping you had an extra;) that doesn't look too hard but it helps that the lever is off the column:lol: i think i can handle it
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Re: 5.3L DBW cruise hookup
I'm installing cruise in my 65 at the moment and went to the wrecking yard and pulled a 4 wire stalk out of a 84 full size blazer. Its exactly like the 3 wire stalk shown. So if you look around you can find one that's all ready 4 wire. Nice write up if you can only find the 3 wire stalks.
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Ls1, do you still have any converted switches you want to sell?
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That looks just like an '81 lever, but of the 15 or so that I've had, I have never seen a factory 4 wire one. What does it look like put together? What does the lettering look like?
Clyde65 I have a couple, but almost all the lettering is wkorn off of them. Posted via Mobile Device |
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!http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ket_51037_.jpg Posted via Mobile Device |
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