69 c20 lowering questions
1st off I'm sorry, I know this is beat to death, and I did search but most everything is referring to a c10. But my question is pretty straight forward. How low can I go with out a c notch? I won't be hauling anything at all with the truck. I plan on Staying 8 lug and keeping the rear (eaton I believe?) I have. It's also coils all around. Will the larger rear limit me any?
The plan is drop spindles (disc conversion), Springs and new shocks all around, and a block in the rear if need be. I'm assuming I'll need an adjustable Panhard bar and rear shock relocations as well. I can switch to smaller bumpstops if needed. I'll be running steel wheels off of a 90s suburban, and am flexible on tire size (open to suggestions). So what's the lowest I can go? Am I missing anything in my parts list? Thanks guys |
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Measure the distance between the top of the axle and the frame rail. Then subtract at least 2 inches for suspension travel and that would be a safe way to estimate.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
That's a good point, and obviously easy to do. I won't be around the truck unail later so I'm just curious what every one else has gotten away with
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
GMC Pauls makes drop springs for our C20 trucks and POL make disc brake drop spindles for our trucks as well. So with that, you can drop as much as your heart desires. I personally wouldn't drop it lower then 4" in the rear without a c-notch. For the front if you drop it 3" or more with springs then you'll need a camber adjustment upper control arm cross shaft. Without doing more modifications to the C20 best bet would be doing a 2/4 drop with springs, or a 2 1/2" front drop with spindles and a 4" drop rear with springs.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Also, on the measurement idea...how accurate is that really? Think about it... 50 year old springs...there's probably some sag going on there. It may already sit a little lower then factory...making the measurement for new lowering Springs possibly off... right?
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
Just checked them out. What's the difference between c10 and c20 Springs? I was under the impression I could just run Springs marketed for the c10, is that incorrect? |
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
Biggest problem I had was most threads said to simply pop the lower ball joint open and swing the brakes out of the way to swap the front springs. Popping the ball joint took some work and then the brake backing plate would not clear the suspension and come out. So I ended up unbolting the lower control arm from the frame. Pics for reference on 2" front and 4" rear C10 Springs. Before..... http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psgnq2iam6.jpg After.... http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...pspboias8v.jpg I did take measurements on the top of the fender lip to the garage floor before and after and it was close to 2"/4" on the tape. |
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Thanks man those pictures are helpful
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
1 Attachment(s)
I used c10 4" lowering springs and a 1.5" block in the back. 2.5" drop spindles and 1 inch drop springs in front. Converted to front disc brakes in the process. I would like to go another inch lower in the back but not sure if I can without the rear end hitting the bed.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
So basically a c20 lowering spring will be stiffer and have less travel then a c10 spring? |
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Suspension travel will be close to the same it'll just be a stiffer ride.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
What I'm getting at is, with the c20 spring there will be less of a chance bottoming out on smaller bumpstops and such as there would be with the softer c10 spring...correct?
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Since your not wanting to do a c-notch, yes the C20 springs would be less chance of bottoming out.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
5 Attachment(s)
Ok. Here's a couple of shots. Hope they help. I have about 3 inches before the axle hits frame in the rear bit I think the pumpkin is closer to hitting the bed.
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
1 Attachment(s)
This low.... Sorry just saw C20 this is a 10 obviously...
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
1 Attachment(s)
Here ya go Joe. It's easier on the neck. ;)
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
Quote:
|
Re: 69 c20 lowering questions
That is rear differential sitting on frame on 1 inch rubber blocks and front A arms sitting on modified rubber bushing, also about 1 inch. That is fully slammed not driving stance. Kind of new to the BAG world but I run 60psi on both front and back to drive, it is still low. Hope that helps.
Azle |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:42 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com