Danforth Cross Member Install
 

After weighing all my options, I have a Danforth Cross Member on the way. IMO it is the most cost efficient way to do a IFS in a AD truck while using the stock frame. Cost of the Cross Member is $500.00 plus freight.

There are some build threads on the interweb, but nothing yet I have seen from start to finish, and it took a lot of reading to find them.

I am planning on this install late fall, but have already started looking for donor parts.

The pictures below are some that I have saved from build threads and off Facebook.

http://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/O...827180_n-L.jpg

http://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/O...826352_n-M.jpg

The Cross Member is based on GM metric geometry, which is the 1978-1987 GM G-bodies, parts of the F bodies, and the S/T bodies which includes the S-10 and S-15.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

https://www.facebook.com/ADTruckBuilds

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=569491&page=6

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Looks sweet. I will be looking for pictures of your upper A-arms installed.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

At this time I am not sure if I will notch to clear the uppers, or just run Tubular A Arms.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1379196833

http://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/O...O/IMG_2221.jpg

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Danforth Crossmember? Okay, I'll say it: Never heard of them.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

This kit was designed by Scott Danforth to use GM metric suspension on the 47-54 frames. He is an active member on Stove Bolt and The Hamb. He now builds them for others to use for a low dollar alternative to ifs / S10 swaps.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

I'm sure you know it, but you can use the 2WD 98 and up Blazer steering knuckle/sealed bearing spindle/ and duel piston brakes on the G Body setup. These are really cheap in the salvage yards (just bought a complete set to upgrade the brakes on an S10. If you really want to go all out, you can use the 2WD blazer steering knuckle and sealed bearing, buy an $85 bracket, and bolt 5th generation Corvette brakes and rotors on the front. Love your build, looking forward to your upgrades.
Ricky

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

You have to kinda dig to find info. He does not advertise at all.

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Great info.....I will have to do some digging. Finding a 2WD Blazer up here is going to be tough.

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That cross member looks nice, looking forward to seeing it installed!

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Thanks, I am super excited to install it.

I found a donor truck, I just need to find the time to strip the front suspension off it.

To get to my preferred ride height, Scott is suggesting drop spindles, so I need to order those as well.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Could you notch the bottom of the frame to raise the cross member and eliminate the need to notch for a arm clearance?

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

raising/ notching the cross member into the frame lowers the truck even more, it's discussed in the thread on stove bolt. Seem like the hard way when you can buy dropped springs and spindles or easily use air bags, but Mr. Danforth notched a frame to accomplish it.

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I guess it would have been better to say "I should have done this" instead of giving up on that unit in my truck.

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So you have a Danforth member and decided not to use it?

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Had one, installed it, got cheesed off because the steering wasn't completely developed and traded the chassis away to do a dakota swap.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Right on. I am in the process of ordering one, if you had one to get rid of I was ready to drive north! LOL!

I will post photos of mine going together.

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The location of the cross member determines ride height. My desired ride height is pretty much the same as I am running now. Scott suggests a 1-1/2" bottom notch and 2" drop spindles for me to achieve this. Once I get it mocked up I will see if I need to notch the frame to clear the stock upper A Arms.

The top notch is still avoidable with a tubular upper A arm, which are pretty affordable.

http://www.ubmachine.com/uppermetric.html

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Random Notes:

Donors-


Any 1982-2004 S-10, S-15, T-10, T-15, S-10 Blaser, Sonoma, Hombre, Bravada, Jimmy, Cyclone, Typhon, etc. Technically GMT-325 and GMT-330 chassis

These are the same stampings as any A/G body which is any 1978-1987 Malibu, Regal, Monte Carlo, Cutlass, El Camino, Gran National, etc.

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Rack and Pinion:

"the 1993-1997 Camaro or Firebird. in 1998, they changed the angle of the pinion and it hits the frame. simply cut off 4-1/8" off the inner tie rod ends and rethread.

however if you desire, a ford exploder or dodge durango/dakota rack and pinion can be used as well."

"The 87 Tbird rack I used goes stop to stop on stock S10 spindles. I haven't driven it yet but i'm expecting a turn radius about the same as a long bed S10"

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

The 87 Tbird I used came up a bit short on turning once we have this on the ground and actually driving it was about 3/4" from the stop ,not bad Its just not where I want it. I have a 97/98 Mark Viii rack on the way that turns 6.88" lock to lock and should take care of that issue. The Tbird rack was 5.33" lock to lock. I believe it has the same mountings. I'll post what I find out when I get it

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That is good info to know. Do you have a resource that tells you the specs of the rack and pinion?

I am pulling parts from a 1995 Thunderbird (same as 1995 Mark Series) and have access to that rack.

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I am going to use a Sweet power servo rack in mine from stock car racing.

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How much do those run?

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Used ones run from 225 -600.00. I am Indiana, so they are plentiful.


Latemodels and Modifieds are everywhere here

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

Hey Coach

I am following along on this build for sure....I love my daily driver S10 truck...not sure if I am gonna be able to handle the antique feel of leaf springs and a straight front axle on my current "Howard Knapp" farm truck I am rebuilding...I love the looks of the stock stuff but darn...I have driven straight axle stuff before and boy oh boy...they don't ride or turn anything alike...I think you are gonna love these changes for sure...

You seem to have a handle on all this stuff...good luck and may the money fairy's dropped tons of cash in your wallet so you can finish these upgrades in a timely manor...

MikeC

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

According to Cardone the Tbird 22-203A travel is 5.3" and
Mark VIII #22-215 is 5.95" so it should get me lock to lock, I'm just about !/2" short of lock to lock now.

This is what I just ordered
1994 LINCOLN MARK VIII 4.6L V8 #22-215 48" oal 5.95" travel
FORD THUNDERBIRD (1989 - 1997)
LINCOLN MARK VIII (1994 - 1996)
MERCURY COUGAR (1989 - 1997)

This is what I currently have on it now.
FORD LTD (1984 - 1986) #22-203A 48" oal 5.3" travel
FORD MUSTANG (1985 - 1993)
FORD THUNDERBIRD (1984 - 1988)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL (1985 - 1987)
LINCOLN MARK VII (1984 - 1992)
MERCURY CAPRI (1985 - 1986)
MERCURY COUGAR (1985 - 1988)
MERCURY MARQUIS (1985 - 1986)

I believe these all mount the same


this may also be helpful when connecting the hoses

http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2022-0007.pdf

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Awesome......thanks for the info!!

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Thank you very much!!

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

1994 LINCOLN MARK VIII 4.6L V8 #22-215 48" oal 5.95" travel
FORD THUNDERBIRD (1989 - 1997)
LINCOLN MARK VIII (1994 - 1996)
MERCURY COUGAR (1989 - 1997)

It is exactly a 6" throw which gives me the 3/8 on each side that its short of hitting the stops. It is long so I think I need to either trim off some tie rod or change them to a shorter one or possibly use the ones off the Tbird if they fit.

I'll take some pictures tomorrow when it on and we test it out

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

We have it in and its a whole lot better steering than it was. It is about an 1/8" from the stops. We did have to use Tbrid inner tie rods EV117 and cut them about 3/4' on each end. The rod end were 7" long from a 93 corvette re-tapped to fit the tie rods. On a very tight turn it does scrub a bit but its only when its up against the stop. we do need to raise it 1.5".

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

One side note about the rack fittings. I had to turn the ends that go into the rack down a bit so they didn't bottom out and let the oring seat. I used a Borgeson gm pump to ford rack hose kit. It didn't take much only about .125 off. You could do the same with a little thicker washer than they gave me.

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Thanks a ton for the info. I plan on pulling the rack and pinion from the Thunderbird when I pull the IRS rear end.

The plan is coming together........

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OK, so I found a S-10 donor at a local scrap yard. Hope to head out there in the near future.

Any special tools required to remove the A arms and associated stuff?

Re: Danforth Cross Member Install
 

save the a frame bolts, There were hard to find new in the right size.

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Finally got around to spending some time in the junkyard and pulling parts from a donor.

2 hours and $30 later I have all the front suspension parts I need.

https://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/..._DSC4090-M.jpg

https://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/..._DSC4095-M.jpg

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Beyond excited about my score today. Bearings, Brake Pads, Ball Joints......Bushings all look great.

https://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/...18188911-L.jpg

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did you get all the bolts for the A frames?

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Yes for the lowers. I had to sacrifice the upper mount bolts.