I still get out to the shop when I can. Baseball and Gymnastics keeps us hopping this time of the year.
I got the shift linkage adjusted, but needs some fine tuning as it is off on the column indicator. It does go into each gear now. I will let this go for now.
My ignition switch was bad, internal short in the run and start positions. Replaced switch and now the start function works correctly. Still not getting go voltage at the fuse panel on a couple of circuits, two of which are the ignition non-fused taps. I need one of those to provide my keep on power to the PCM.
Used my voltmeter and I have power going to the right places, but there is a huge voltage drop at the ignition on circuits on the fuse panel. So I pulled off the panel from the firewall. I think I see at least one of the problems:
That red wire is the battery feed to the fuse block, it is about 12" long back to the factory splice where the battery power enters under the dash and splits off to go to the fuse block, the ignition switch and the headlight switch. I will replace the 14ga section that goes feeds the fuse box.
The large pink wire in that picture goes to the flasher. It is a key on power wire. Its hidden behind the green and purple wires, but it is tapped into a female spade terminal that is attached to a buss bar that feeds 3 fuses. I believe the buss bar connection is corroded to a point that the fuses and male spade terminals on the front side only get about 4-5 volts. The flasher gets its full 12 volts. This picture is a bit clearer since I removed the red power wire...
Besides pulling the entire under dash harness and replacing the fuse box, does anyone have a method of cleaning these connections to get power restored?
I could go with this
Dash Harness, but I am currently limited on the amount of money I have to spend on this project. I know this would be right thing to do and keep it looking factory under the dash.