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Old 09-02-2003, 01:06 PM   #1
72shorty
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200 4R vs 700 R4?

I am slowly starting to read and get educated on these trucks and the various parts, etc. that go along with them. My question is regarding auto tranny's. A friend of mine told me about the 200 4R this weekend and while I have never heard of it, I am not educated much on tranny's period. I just assumed from reading, posts, etc that the 700 R4 was the way to go. So, does anyone have any experience with these two?

I have a '72 short step with a 250 inline six. I am considering keeping the six a while but would love to get rid of the 3spd on the column and swap for an auto but really want an overdrive as my motor screams at 60mph and above. This truck is my daily driver and I have no intentions of turning it into a hot rod or do much pulling. Some day, when I have the money, I would love a small block Chev.

Experiences and/or thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:14 PM   #2
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The 200r-4 was in the buick grand nationals and turbo regals. Some will say they aren't strong, but if they can hold up to that, they'll hold up to a lot of things. I think it is also a direct bolt in from a turbo 350.

I think the 700r-4 is more popular because there are more donor vehicles out there.
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:22 PM   #3
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Both can be built to handle the hp of a sbc. If you had a th350 with a 6" tailshaft the 200 4r is supposed to be an easy swap, they are the same length, have the same tailshaft and you would just have to move your crossmember back to the 400 position. Since you have to convert from a 3 speed, it may be just as easy to drop the 700r4 in there.
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Old 09-02-2003, 02:08 PM   #4
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With a 250 six I would try to find a 200r4, it would be an easier [read cheaper] swap and a bone stock trans would handle the power easily
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Old 09-02-2003, 03:55 PM   #5
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72Shorty,
Attached is a chart showing some dimensions of the GM autos. Snagged it off the web-can't remember where.

Good Luck,
Kent
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Old 09-02-2003, 03:59 PM   #6
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72Shorty,
Here's another chart showing the gearing of the GM autos. The 700R4 has a lower first gear than the 200-4R. Sorry, I don't have the gearing for the manuals to compare.

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Old 09-02-2003, 09:30 PM   #7
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Thanks guys, good stuff!
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Old 09-03-2003, 03:11 AM   #8
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Someone correct me if I am wrong, but from that chart, it looks like the 200r4 is almost a bolt in for a turbo 400 equipped truck, or with very little modifications.

Also, did I hear some where that the 200r4 case has both chevy and POB bolt patterns?
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Old 09-03-2003, 05:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
If you had a th350 with a 6" tailshaft the 200 4r is supposed to be an easy swap, they are the same length, have the same tailshaft and you would just have to move your crossmember back to the 400 position.
I believe you would have to have a driveshaft built to swap it in place of the 400. And I have heard the same thing about the bolt patterns.
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Old 09-03-2003, 09:14 AM   #10
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The link below has lots of good info about the 200-4r including a chart showing what trans went into what car.

http://members.aol.com/powerrslid/thm2004r.html
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by 68 Suburban
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but from that chart, it looks like the 200r4 is almost a bolt in for a turbo 400 equipped truck, or with very little modifications.

Also, did I hear some where that the 200r4 case has both chevy and POB bolt patterns?
Yeah, the 200R4 requires fewer mechanical mods technically...though not a whole lot less, since I think you're going to have to move the crossmember back with either one, and get the driveshaft shortened either way. When I did my TH400->700R4 swap, the shop I got my shaft shortened at also swapped the yoke for 'free' (I gave them my now-useless-to-me TH400 yoke for the correct one).

And yes, the 200R4 does have both boltpatterns, as one of its applications was behind the 3.8L V6 in the Buick Regal, GN/GNX, and the one year for the Firebird Turbo Trans-Am.

Which one to get? Six of one and a half-dozen of the other, it's your pick. I think if you intend to keep that six for more than a little while, the 200R4 might be a better pick with its tighter gearing. I haven't found the 700R4's rather steep 1-2 spacing to be a problem anywhere other than the track (where I still have yet to make the dang thing stay in first past 4200RPM!) in my truck...but my mom's 2002 TrailBlazer has a 4L65E, which still has the same gearing as my 700. Maybe the extra thousand pounds and the slightly rev-happy I6 have something to do with it, but that thing REALLY stays in first for quite a while even at low throttle...it's slightly disconcerting to me.

Edit: Wow, just realized it's the second week of class...so it's been a year since two things:
*I got my truck back on the road with the Vortecs and 700R4
*I got my street racing ticket in my dad's Benz
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:53 AM   #12
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If going from a manual to an automatic, with a 200r4 all you will need is a flexplate,starter, an automatic crossmember, brackets/studs to hook the TV cable to the carb and a nice weekend. Driveshaft will bolt in with no mods.
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Old 09-03-2003, 11:11 AM   #13
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Awesome info guys. Thanks a ton. I may have found a 200 R4 here in KC. Gotta call the guy and check price, etc.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-03-2003, 02:08 PM   #14
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The 200R4 in the Buick V6 Turbo and Trans Am's is not the same as the 200R4 in other GM cars. Outside they are the same but inside the Buick V6 and Trans-Am trannys were built with a lot of heavy duty parts that you could not buy for the first couple of years. So most 200R4 trans. are not built for the high HP. Since you are installing it behind a 6 cyc, chances are any of the 200R4 will be ok for now.
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Old 09-03-2003, 02:36 PM   #15
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my 250 is in mid conversion status right now. things to consider:

1 i pulled a 200-r4 out of a caprice v-8, i needed a different yoke. the caprice had bigger u joints.

2 B&M makes a really nice tourque converter lock up controller. A bit pricey at 159.99, but have heard from a friend that its well worth it. If you opt to wire it up manually, be sure to put a brake switch on it, so if you slam on the brakes and lock up the rear wheels, it won't stall the engine unexpectedly.

3. That old clutch z bar looks like with minimal modification it could be the answer to column linkage? i'll let you know how it works out. if not, the correct linkage is relatively inexpensive.

Good luck, lemme know if you find any other issues.
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Old 09-03-2003, 03:41 PM   #16
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The wiring is not hard to do at all, especially since my guess is everything other than the internal wiring bits is going to be the same whether it's going to a 200-4R or a 700-R4. You can do it for a LOT less than $159 (OUCH!) or even $70 (yikes!) for either of the kits mentioned...just check out the 700R4 FAQ on the FAQ board. You're looking at some wire, some connectors, an easy-to-find and cheap-at-NAPA brake switch, a vacuum switch (I got mine from the dealer but you could probably get it elsewhere), and maybe a toggle switch if you want manual control as well. Definitely not $70 of parts or work!
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Old 09-03-2003, 03:45 PM   #17
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Great stuff guys. Now if I could just get one of you "wrenches" to come to my house for a tranny party?

Thanks again for all of the info! Keep it coming!

my68beatertruck, let me know how your swap goes, I may need to consult you when I do mine and would love to know how it runs, handles, etc with the 250. THANKS!
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