48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

The same FedEx truck had the Hooker exhaust manifolds from Amazon. I followed FarmerSid's lead on these and ordered them Thursday.

They fit! Left side has a lot of clearance and the right side top of frame rail will need 1/4" or so shaved off.

While these look to be nice pieces, I was surprised to read in the instructions they can't be used for a new engine break in as the ceramic coating isn't cured yet. Hooker advises to use some other exhaust manifolds to break in the engine then install the new ones. They even give a break in process for the ceramic coating.

Did you have clearance issues with your starter or dip stick tube? I have a stock 5.3 starter and the manifold (same one as you) hit the heat shield. My f body oil pan dip stick tube hits the manifold too. Is your engine perfectly centered? I have the same right frame rail you did but my engine is about 1/4 off center right now. I'm thinking of moving it but I don't want to lose steering clearance.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Did you have clearance issues with your starter or dip stick tube? I have a stock 5.3 starter and the manifold (same one as you) hit the heat shield. My f body oil pan dip stick tube hits the manifold too. Is your engine perfectly centered? I have the same right frame rail you did but my engine is about 1/4 off center right now. I'm thinking of moving it but I don't want to lose steering clearance.

Hi Root, I haven't test fit the starter yet, though if your heat shield hits the manifold mine probably will too. The engine is centered and I moved my column about 1 1/2" to the left.

If my dipstick tube contacts, I'll try bending and forming for clearance or find one that does clear. Darn...well at least the used F body pan works.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Hi Root, I haven't test fit the starter yet, though if your heat shield hits the manifold mine probably will too. The engine is centered and I moved my column about 1 1/2" to the left.

If my dipstick tube contacts, I'll try bending and forming for clearance or find one that does clear. Darn...well at least the used F body pan works.

I only mocked up the manifolds with 2 bolts each to see if they would fit. I need to pull my engine again anyway so now I know where to clearance the frame. I popped the heat shield off the starter so I can at least use this one for the initial start up but I am guessing I may find the heat to damage the starter in the long run so I'll be pricing those mini starters.

I plan to leave my steering in the stock location so I may have to modify the frame a bit if I can't move the engine to perfect center.

I am going to try and bend the dipstick tube too but maybe a fancy lokar one would be better. I don't have a dipstick for my 4l60e at all so if I go lokar atleast they will match. It just barely touches so a slight bend should do it if you aren't running a fuel rail cover with the set opening for the dipstick. You must have used the f-body pan too? It worked really well with my Mustang II IFS.

Did your manifold come with gaskets? I didn't see any in my box.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Root2812

You must have used the f-body pan too? It worked really well with my Mustang II IFS.

Did your manifold come with gaskets? I didn't see any in my box.

Yes, I used a used F body pan and it fits fine in this application. No, the manifold didn't come with gaskets.

[Advanced Design]

Guys, apologies for lack of progress and updates.

As often said, life does get in the way. My wife's cancer returned last summer so I've lost enthusiasm for working on the Burb right now. We have a real battle going for her health, so your prayers and positive thoughts are appreciated.

The Burb is right there on the lift just waiting....

And while my heart isn't in the Burb right now, we did buy a new car trailer (she insisted). Check it out here....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post8185000