Wood bed question

[Misstur_big]

I have to replace my wood bed because I dident take the time to finish them correctly and now the wood is spliting. Stupid me.
Question is:
There is a guy on Ebay offering wood beds in different woods.
Since my truck is basically a street rod I think I would like to do something diferent. Has anyone ever used Hickory? How does it look?

When I did my oak bed (1 year ago) I use a outdoor style polyuritaine but now it is seperating from the wood. Where did I go wrong? I put 5 coats on it.
I used a stain and then a sanding sealer but it still lifted in areas after a year.
Bad Luck?

[classicchev]

Miosture content in the wood is a killer. that is what it sounds like to me. Did you coat the entire board, holes and ends? All that is available from most suppliers are oak and pine.
Good luck

[msgross]

I saw them do an epoxy finish on TRUCKS, looked great and would be strong as heck.

[Gray Ghost]

Hickory is a stunning wood. It would look great in a pickup bed. Mine's metal but if I did do one, I'd use a wood not many else would have.

I actually have the plans and was going to start producing them, but I can't touch the normal $200 most kits cost.

Too bad....extremely few have exotic woods in their pickup bed. What a head turner it would be. I was even going to offer inlays, but I could see the cost being a very hard hurdle to clear.

I build with one wood in my decking business that is waterproof and doesn't float in water. Cost on it would be around $550 for the wood kit finished, but you' d never have to replace it as long as you lived. It's called Ipe [eepay] and is Brazilian Walnut. Weighs a bit more than Oak as it is extremely dense.

[Misstur_big]

I truely belive there is a nitch market out there for exotic woods for beds. I would kill to have someone make me bed blanks out of white and black Zebra wood just to be different.
I ordered the Hickory bed and I am going to punch some drain holes at the front to help water drain out quicker (Not so you can see them)

[Leinie]

Misstur Big-

You say you used a sanding sealer and then Poly ? Were they the same brand ? and was the sealer made for the poly ?

Typical sanding sealer is not compatible with poly. There are some brands that make sanding sealer for their poly but not always readily available.

I learned this lesson the hard way on my bar top



I have access to lots of different woods, clamping divices, glues, sanders planers etc and have thought about bed kits, but $200-- no way

I keep thinking glued strips of alternating walnut and maple , or Cherry( american or Brazillian) and maple would look pretty cool. I'm talking like 1/4" or 1/2" strips

[BowTieOgre]

Originally Posted by Buffalo Elk

I actually have the plans and was going to start producing them, but I can't touch the normal $200 most kits cost.

I build with one wood in my decking business that is waterproof and doesn't float in water. Cost on it would be around $550 for the wood kit finished, but you' d never have to replace it as long as you lived. It's called Ipe [eepay] and is Brazilian Walnut. Weighs a bit more than Oak as it is extremely dense.

If you could point me in the direction of a $200 bed kit I would appreciate it.

I called around a few places near me in hopes that I could get some wood planed and cut to match the measurements of a wood kit and one or two fellas mentioned that Ipe would be the way to go. Whats so special about it?

[Solver]

I used natuaral Hickory on my 68 Stepside. Really couldn't tell that much difference than oak

[subtle71]

I'm I fan of the beauty that the hardwoods and exotics have to offer. After my third Oak kit, that I purchased from a board vendor, split after following all the steps patiently and thoroughly... I went down to the local mill and got some African Mahogany planks and made the current bed floor.

[classicchev]

Wow that mahogany floor looks killer, even better with the white.

There is a guy on Ebay that is selling the bed wood cheap, BUT watch out, There are so many variables in the cost, and I still can not figure out how he can do it sooooo cheap. I have done sets, the biggest problem I have is finding the proper widths, lenghts of board that have somewhat the same graining pattern. Properly finishing wood is the same as doing body work, the product is only going to be as good as the products being used, and the amount of prop work taken.

Darren

[Gray Ghost]

BTO...I see them every year at the swaps in White Oak or Red Oak for $200...course they are unfinished. I've seeen kits listed on the web for $300 finished, but I'd bet it's not done very well. I put 8 coats on the kit I made for my friend in Utah [for his 1929 Model A].

As I mentioned before, it doesn't float. That tells us woodworkers that the wood is virtually impervious to water. It is very hard to plane and work due to it's high silica content [think sand and glass]. There are only a few woods on the planet that are higher on the hardness scale. All this results in it being the best wood for anything outdoors.


Subtle71...that is gorgeous wood in the bed of your truck!!

Solver....that does look like Oak. I've never seen hickory look like that, but I haven't seen it all yet...

ClassicChev...you are very correct here. The finishing is the most important part, especially with Oak as the grain has to be filled first to offer a good weatherproof product. I doubt anyone goes to the trouble of hand finishing like I do either. Most kit producers spray it and that gives you a thinner less resilient finish than brushing it on.

MissturBig...The zebrawood we get is more yellow and black, but it's pretty stuff.

I think there's a market too, but I am not sure exactly how to go about getting it advertised on a budget. Maybe I should ponder it some more. Here's a couple of pics after the top side got poly'd. I used Natural Minwax Stain and Spar Urethane Outdoor Varnish. Note that these pics were before the sides and bottoms were stained and sealed.

[subtle71]

classicchev,
I agree with your statement on "how much preparation goes into it". I have a friend that flew out for the recent SEMA show and saw an incredible looking '48 Chevy thats bed's finish had a mirror finish. While I was driving back across country, he was busy ripping my truck's bed apart. He was not happy knowing that the finish could look better. At last count, he was up to the 11th top coat. (sanding in between coats stepping up to 2000 grit) Once he hits it with the polisher, it should look amazing. He assures me that it will be ready for the cruise-in this coming Saturday evening.

Here's a pic of the bed of that '48 from SEMA:

[Kurt L]

THOSE ARE SOME AWSOME FLOORS.I JUST WANT SOME ONE TO COME UP WITH A FLOOR KIT FOR MY 91 TRUCK. i know they have one but it's removeable.[don't want that].

[bad69bowtie]

I recently found a marine finish that seems to be much more durable than any of the polyurethanes that we have tested on our bed wood sets that we manufacture and sell. I had been using Helmsman Spar Urethane by Minwax and was happy with it because of its UV and moisture resistance. Finishes that are exposed to water and sunlight for a long time WILL deteriorate! I found out about this finish from a local sailboating club. They use it on any wood on the outside of their boats and it looked great considering the abuse it took. The name of the marine finish is Sikkens Cetol.

[Gray Ghost]

I know the brand name but have never used that. I'll have to try it out on my sign and see how it does. That thing gets full sun in folks' yards and Helmsman lasts about 3 years or so.

[classicchev]

This is one set that I did for a board member. White 1/4 cut oak, light stain and I think 5 medium coats of Acricote, a PPg product. No polishing, that is how it dried. When the truck is done I will polish, so it will reflect the black paint even more.

[classicchev]

here is another shot

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by classicchev

This is one set that I did for a board member. White 1/4 cut oak, light stain and I think 5 medium coats of Acricote, a PPg product. No polishing, that is how it dried. When the truck is done I will polish, so it will reflect the black paint even more.

What did you use to recess your body bolt washers, I haven't done mine yet? J.

[Gray Ghost]

Looks like a forstner bit job on the washer holes. I do like 1/4 sawn Oak....very nice rays.

[classicchev]

Fostner bit, make sure you do the 1/2 inch hole offset for the washer. Drill the 1 1/2" hole first.

[Misstur_big]

Guy's
I am really sorry.
I am new to this board and it never dawned on me that a member might be selling wood for the beds. Before I buy another thing I will check here first.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

It wouldn’t be for show but has any one thought about the plastic woods for durability in a truck bed ????

[Gray Ghost]

Hopefully not. I don't even like the stuff on decks much...no personality.

Also, you can't get a board wider than 5.5", so you really can't build a kit from it.

[jim walker]

How about the stock look..................black is beautiful.........................stock rocks.....................................

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by jim walker

How about the stock look..................black is beautiful.........................stock rocks.....................................

I like it, black srtips and wood look good with black