Advise on getting truck running after 5 years

[montyrobison]

Hi,

I was just wondering what words of wisdom were out there for getting my 72 K10 running again after sitting for 5+ years. It's a stock 350 with Q-jet carb. I guess I'm mostly concerned with fuel issues after sitting this long, but anything else to look for would be great. There was fuel in the tank and the carburetor when it was parked. Any words of advise would be greatly appreciated!

Monty

[WorkinLonghorn]

I'm sure there are guys with more experience than me who will chime in soon,but in the mean time I would suggest draining the gas tank,or,if it only has a little in it then pour lots of fresh gas in the tank.I would disconnect the fuel line and drain it.The carb is probably dry so don't worry about that.
Next I would power pre-lube the engine with an available tool you put in the distrib hole,or make my own with an old distrib with the drive gear removed.Of course I would change the oil 1st.Then I would squirt some oil in the spark-plug holes,then see if it will turn over.Put everything back in place and give it a try. You will need a good battery and it might help to prime the carb.

[Sinister]

Definitely drain the gastank, you can drain it from under the truck, there's a a bit of rubber fuel line going from the tank to the hardline that goes to the fuelpump. Good luck with it...

[Billla]

I think WorkinLonghorn nailed it I would prelube the heck out of it, and try to squirt a little oil on the front and rear seals as well. I'd also turn it over a couple of times with the coil wire disconnected after the pre-lube just to make sure everything's wet.

[montyrobison]

To all,

Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely be draining the fuel tank and flushing the fuel line. What about the fuel pump? Is there a chance of problems there?

As far as priming the oil system through the distributor hole, how would you maintain the timing if you remove and then reinstall the distributor? Could you accomplish the same thing by simply turning over the engine with the coil wire removed as Billia suggested until it indicates oil pressure on the gauge?
Thanks again for your suggestions and any others will be appreciated also.

Monty

[raggedjim]

Take a good look at the tank also. I have seen tanks that had fuel in them rust at the point right above the fuel level. Don't know why but I have seen it numerous times.

Rg

[montyrobison]

Raggedjim,

Thanks for the advise on the inside of the tank. I imagine that they must condensate for some reason. I'll be sure and give it a good look over. If there is some rust is there any way to remove it that you know of short of buying a new tank?

Monty

[bobthecop]

You don't really want to turn the engine over until you are sure you have oil pressure, also, see if the engine turns over by hand, if it does, still put some trans fluid in the cyls, if it doesn't put sone trans fluid in the cyls and let it set until you can turn it over by hand, prime the system and make sure you have good oil pressure. Also replace all the rubber fuel lines, and get new plugs, cap and rotor, ch plug wires and relpace if needed, also ck the coolong system, drain and fill with fresh coolant. Relace the belts, prime the carb and fire it up. (I don't think I missed anything that has not been previously mentioned. Good luck

[montyrobison]

Hi bobthecop,

Holy cow! There's a lot more to getting an engine that's been sitting for awhile going than I first thought. Thanks for your words of wisdom and advise. I have no doubt it's worth the time it takes to insure your not going to damage the bearings, etc. when you first fire it up. Thanks again!

Monty

[bobthecop]

Not a problem, I saw a show with Stacy David a few weeks ago, where he was doing the same thing, he also rebuilt the carb first. My son has a '69 C10 and fired it up a few weeks ago, it had been sitting about 6 mos. fuel started spraying all over everywhere from cracked fuel lines. Luckily we shut it down before he caught anything on fire.

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by montyrobison

Raggedjim,

Thanks for the advise on the inside of the tank. I imagine that they must condensate for some reason. I'll be sure and give it a good look over. If there is some rust is there any way to remove it that you know of short of buying a new tank?

Monty

I know some places sell tank sealers but I just bought a good used one.

Good luck, Rg

[Billla]

Originally Posted by montyrobison

As far as priming the oil system through the distributor hole, how would you maintain the timing if you remove and then reinstall the distributor? Could you accomplish the same thing by simply turning over the engine with the coil wire removed as Billia suggested until it indicates oil pressure on the gauge?

Whups - re-read my post; I suggested turning it over a few times AFTER pre-oiling. Pre-oiling is the single most important think you need to do.

The easiest way to re-stab the distributor is mark where the vacuum advance points (I use a piece of tape) and then remove the cap and mark where the rotor is on the distributor body. When you put it back in, remember that you'll need to locate the rotor about 2" back from that point as the gears are helical so it will move forward (clockwise) as it slips down into the engine. Also, your oil pump slot wont' be lined up any more, so once you have the rotor where you think it should be but the distributor won't drop all the way down, just bump the engine a few times and it'll drop.

[montyrobison]

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the tip on the distributor. It's turned cold and snowy here right now so I'll have to wait it out before I can give all this a try. Thanks again for your suggestions.

Monty

[retodd7711]

I would also check belts and hoses for rot or cracking. Rebuild kits for your carb are cheap, so I would tear that apart and replace gaskets and clean jets and float bowl. Keep a fire extinguisher ready. Better to have it and not need it than the other way around. If you've got a manual, it should show how to remove and replace the dist. I took pictures of mine with the cap removed to show where it pointed.

[montyrobison]

Thanks retodd7711. Good advise, especially the fire extinguisher. About 24 years ago I had a pristine 71 K5 Blazer. I had the carburetor off and was doing a rebuild on it. I told my wife at the time not to try and drive it as I was working on it. Well, she forgot and went out to start it up and up she went in flames. Thankfully no one was hurt. I learned my lesson the hard way about disconnecting the battery. Shame on me. Have a good one!

Monty

[fine69]

I bought a 1967 Mercury Cougar a few years ago. It had sat in the same spot UNMOVED since 1973, yes, 33 years at that time.
Motor was locked up. Tighter than a Nuns A@@.
First find out if the engine turns over. Remove the coil wire. Take the plugs out. Hook a battery up. Hit the key. See if it even turns first. If so, then spray some lube in the spark plug holes. If it turns,then crank it over for a little while. With the plugs out it will NOT put any undo wear and tear on the engine. NO different than your car sitting a couple weeks not running. Take the gastank out, drain it. HOSE IT OUT WITH WATER. Pressure wash it if you can. Then stand it upside down in your shop for a few days. To drain the water out.
I have started dozens of cars that have sat for years not running.
Worry about all that other stuff after you find out if it turns over.
You dont need oil pressure before you start it.
Does your everyday car have oil pressure while its not running?

[montyrobison]

Fine69,

Thanks for your input and ideas. I appreciate it.

Monty

[cdowns]

i sure wouldnt try turning it over with the starter prior to turning by hand,its a surefire way to brake the rings if theyre stuck to the cylinder walls// and i wouldnt go buying alot of parts either until getting it started and seeing if its worth putting money into the engine if its got a bigtime knock that would be money down the drain

clean and gap plugs clean and gap points oil in cylinders turn over by hand preoil a temp gascan with a couple of gallons of gas and fresh oil is about all i'd do to try and get it to run and see what i've got b-4 replacing rebuilding or buying alot of unneeded stuff

[69halfton]

i think they have covered almost all of it.

i would strongly recomend having a buddy there helping you. its safer to have one guy turning the key, while the other watches under the hood at all times.

if your gunna try and use ETHER or any other spray fuel. MAKE SURE THE MOTOR IS TURNING OVER WHILE YOU SPRAY.

many people say that its bad for an engine to start it this way, but up here in the great north, we start big rigs at work with it all the time. most guys spray a bunch in, and then walk and turn the key. what happens is all the spray goes into one cylender, and blows apart that cyl.

if one guy has the throttle on the floor, you can control the engine speed with your finger on the can. it is totally safe, ive had trucks running for 1-2 min on ether alone, no harm done.

[b-rad]

ETHER do not use it bad bad stuff its like durgs the eng will need it like a crack head needs crack. dont know why but any time u try to start the eng that is the only way it will start is with ether

[odog]

Started my 67 after it sat for 4 years. Put a battery in it, turned the key, let it crank a little, fired right up. DUMB DUMB DUMD. Ran like crap ever since. Lesson learned, PRE LUBE EVERYTHING YOU CAN.

Ether isn't all bad, on a diesel. Our Rock drills and Rock saws come equipted with ether bottles for the cold start mechanisms, but on a gas motor, I am not sure.

[69halfton]

Originally Posted by b-rad

ETHER do not use it bad bad stuff its like durgs the eng will need it like a crack head needs crack. dont know why but any time u try to start the eng that is the only way it will start is with ether

not true. if you use ether on an engine, it has NO EFFECT on how well the engine starts next time. when you used it, you probably didn't pre oil things, and you ruined parts becasue you didn't properly prep the engine. ether is just fuel right at the carb, which gets the motor running, and allows the fuel pump to get gasonline into the carb quickly.

that's like saying when guys convert there 350s to propane, it will never run on gasonline again.

...they will, when you convert back.

[cdowns]

on the many many hundreds of engines of all types i've worked on i've never had heard or seen any damage due to useing ether

[b-rad]

i know that every time i used it in a army veh that u will be using from now on