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Old 07-15-2008, 02:03 PM   #26
nxtruck
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Re: hooking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Super73 View Post
If you do some searches, you can find some posts where I talk about stored energy and adjustable rear control arm brackets. IMO you don't need a coil over set up to make these truck work.
I agree with this 110%. You can make these trucks work with the factory-style rear spring and shock setup, but you WILL have to get as much weight as you can toward the rear of the truck( i.e. move battery to rear of bed, fuel cell or tank in rear of bed,etc.). As these guys have said, you'll need to loosen up the front-end with some drag shocks and drag springs. You want to plant the rear tires upon launch, and getting the front end to come up at launch will help with this. Search around on this forum; there is a TON of good info about what you're wanting to do on here. Good luck with your truck!
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1966 Chevy C10 LWB, 434 sbc, TH350, 12-bolt, factory suspension, pump gas
7.02 @ 95.8, 1.45 60'
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:28 PM   #27
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Re: hooking

thats a good idea nxtruck.but every little bits helps from everyone.i talk to a guy today he say i might have to roll the rear end
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:34 PM   #28
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Re: hooking

Don't get me wrong here; there's nothing wrong with changing to the coilover setup. In my humble opinion, however, it would be easier to use what's already there. A lot of it depends on how much money and time you can put into it. There's guys going fast with coilovers and guys going fast with the factory stuff.
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1966 Chevy C10 LWB, 434 sbc, TH350, 12-bolt, factory suspension, pump gas
7.02 @ 95.8, 1.45 60'
1965 Chevy C10 LWB, 355 sbc, TH350, daily driver
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Old 07-16-2008, 12:50 PM   #29
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Re: hooking

The one issue I see with a coil over is the travel factor. Weather you are squatting the rear or using anti-squat to aid traction, you are limited to travel. If using anti-squat, you want to have the spring compressed as far as possible leaving maybe 1" -1.5" of compression. If you find your hitting the tires too hard and need to induce squat to help keep it hooked, then you want to have it the opposite way, 1-1.5” from full extension to give you room to squat.

If you have a 6” of coil over travel, you are limited to 4.5” of either squat or extension at the shock/spring. With the coil over behind the rear your geometry will only allow 4.5” of travel (actually a touch less). Now, if the coil over was placed say 12” in front of the rear, due to the geometry and arm length, you would gain more than 4.5” of travel at the axle.

With a factory coil set up being in front of the axle, there is more travel room with very small modifications (mainly a different shock). Again this aides to the travel distance. If you have 4.5” of spring movement, you have much more movement at the axle.

There are many ways to skin a cat. Having the shock/spring in front of the axle has it’s benefits and disadvantages as does having it behind the axle. The further in front or behind compounds it’s pluses and minuses..
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------Motor---------------Bottle
60'---1.53---------------1.41
1/8---6.58 @ 105.92----5.87 @ 118.41
1/4---10.38 @ 126.97----9.24 @ 142.49
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:56 PM   #30
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Re: hooking

Super73,
points all well taken and agreed with.
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1966 Chevy C10 LWB, 434 sbc, TH350, 12-bolt, factory suspension, pump gas
7.02 @ 95.8, 1.45 60'
1965 Chevy C10 LWB, 355 sbc, TH350, daily driver
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:07 PM   #31
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Re: hooking

Dj whats up with the coil overs?and the posi unit...and is there any member close by that can help me set my truck up?or can i pay someone to do it for me
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:04 PM   #32
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Re: hooking

call me 3346575583 leave a message if I miss you.

Kevin
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Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK!

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So Far my best Times are:

Motor only:
6.44 1/8 @ 104.13
10.39 1/4 @ 125.83

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Old 07-31-2008, 12:07 AM   #33
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Re: hooking

Dj i call today but didnt get a answer,and i left a message.i would like to get the coil overs,and the posi unit.whats the price on them?i have some 26in tall tires do you guys think they are to small?and what gear should i run....around here we race the 1/8 of the mile.
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:21 AM   #34
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Re: hooking

here my combo....i have a 383 with 6 inch eagle rods,mahle pistons,a solid roller cam comp spec 570 intake-576 exhaust.350 trubo trans with shift kit,and 3000-3500 tci stall.i also have 1.6 rockers.avictor jr intake... whith 195 canfield heads ported and pos.....what do you guys think this motor is putting out,now i need to know whats i need to do with the back half of the truck.i want to add nos.but i want to work the bugs out the truck before i do..i really need you guys help with this truck because i really want to prove theses guys wrong around here about these trucks..so guys with this comb what do i need to do.i want the truck to b streetable so with the gear i can just chang it out to go to the track
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Old 07-31-2008, 03:02 AM   #35
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Re: hooking

Blkboot.. With all due respect, duration means a lot more than lift when talking cams.. What's the duration?


First things forst, weigh your truck. Get a front and rear weight as well as a total weight..
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------Motor---------------Bottle
60'---1.53---------------1.41
1/8---6.58 @ 105.92----5.87 @ 118.41
1/4---10.38 @ 126.97----9.24 @ 142.49

Last edited by Super73; 07-31-2008 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:23 AM   #36
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Re: hooking

280 int 296 exh
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:23 AM   #37
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Re: hooking

comp cam part number 12-771-8
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:22 PM   #38
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Re: hooking

Its comp cam extreme energy/in 242-ex248@.50/Adv 274-280 /lift570in-576 ex/110 degree lobe sep angle Its a street cam 2800 stall recomended 10-1 compression 373 gears.I personally like a little more duration
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:44 PM   #39
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Re: hooking

they say its a nice street and strip cam.this truck will be streetable
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