Rear Shocks

[idastang]

Hi to all. This site has helped me a great deal just reading through the different subjects. I now have a situation I need some help with. I have a 1969 shortbed 4x4 with a 67 327, th350 and np203. The front has disc while the rear has drums. When going through the rear brakes, (been sitting about 4 yrs) I wanted to replace the rear brake wheel cylinders. Once at Checkers Auto, we managed to match it up to a 1980 K10 rear brake system. Now that that is done I need to replace the shocks. The truck has had the set up welded in place for one shock towards the rear of the truck and one faces the front of the truck. What shocks do I buy? 1969 or 1980? I also belive with its stance it has about a 2inch lift. Any help or input would be welcomed. Thanks

[Longhorn Man]

it sounds like you have a good parts guy at your local checkers (a hard to find service at a chain store like that). I would confirm that your two shocks are the same, and take one to your guy at Checkers.
I would also recomend you keep a log of what parts have been swapped around, so next time when you can't get to your parts guy or he has moved on, you can check your notes and know exactly what to ask for.

[idastang]

Thanks Longhorn Man for the reply, and yes I agree with you about the high quality of help at the chain store. Now days if they can't input the info into a computer, they say sorry. Anyway, back to the issue. That would be a good way to go, however, I don't have a shock to compare it to. Since posting the original question, when checking vendor sites for a rear shock for a 69 k10 and a 80 k10, both use the same shock numbers. I think I am going to order a set of skyjackers and see what happens. Thanks again

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by idastang

Hi to all. This site has helped me a great deal just reading through the different subjects. I now have a situation I need some help with. I have a 1969 shortbed 4x4 with a 67 327, th350 and np203. The front has disc while the rear has drums. When going through the rear brakes, (been sitting about 4 yrs) I wanted to replace the rear brake wheel cylinders. Once at Checkers Auto, we managed to match it up to a 1980 K10 rear brake system. Now that that is done I need to replace the shocks. The truck has had the set up welded in place for one shock towards the rear of the truck and one faces the front of the truck. What shocks do I buy? 1969 or 1980? I also belive with its stance it has about a 2inch lift. Any help or input would be welcomed. Thanks

I'm not looking at my truck right now but as far as I know the rear axel is original to the frame. And I'm pretty sure it has one shock in front of the rear axel and one behind.

I'm not surprised that 1980 and 1969 rear shocks are the same. I would guess they are the same until at least 1987.

[71blksuper4x4]

Original 1967-1972 4x4 frames have shocks mounted in front of the axle. You have a later axle setup on your truck(discs in the front didn't become an option til 71), or you have a mutt truck. My guess is that you might have a later frame under it, as you also have a np203, which wasn't out until 73+. Check to see if your frame has shock up for both in front of the axle, if so, you have a later model frame under your truck, if not, you need to move the shock mount on the axle to the front. Staggered shocks didn't come out until 73'. Hope this helps. There is also the possibliity to find a 73'-91' shock mount to bolt to your existing frame. As far as shocks, you can make anything work, it's up to you. They are probably really close to the same. Trevor

[Mudder]

Sounds like a newer frame to me. Moving to 4x4 area.

[idastang]

Thanks for the replys. The frame is a 69 4x4 s/b frame. It has the shock mounts for the rear shocks in on the frame under the bed of the truck so that both shocks face forward. The frame has been modified for the newer style rear end by having upper shock mounts welded to the frame. I checked all this my veiwing "the money pit" on this site. The front frame rails are also rounded to fit the bumber style. I know the np 203 was not used untill 73, and so I had suspected a different frame. Some one has done a great deal of mods so yes, I guess I have a mutt, or to say a combation of parts. I have tried to ID the front and rear axels but there is no tags. The best I can come up with is the front is a 10 bolt and the rear is a 12 bolt. Is there a way to ID these other than a tag? Any imput is welcomed. Thanks

[71blksuper4x4]

More than likely you have dana 44 front end, and 12 bolt rear. Dana 44 will be more of a stop sign type shape of the jug, and a 10 bolt is pretty round. Trevor

[idastang]

Thanks Trevor, You are right on the front, it's a dana 44. So is that a good thing? I am just learning on 4x4s. I am just planing on using this truck for a daily driver with decent looks. I need 4 wheel drive due to road conditions here in Utah. It has superwinch hubs, and I belive the t/c has been upgraded to part time. Is there a way to verify this as being part time? I just went through the 327 and I need to do some work on the t/c. Need to replace the front and rear seals and the front out put seems a little sloppy to me. If I grab the front drive line I am able to move it uo and down about a 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch. Once again, this site is very helpful and I want to thank all that take the time to help.

[71blksuper4x4]

Dana 44 is stronger than a 10 bolt by just a little bit, so it's a good thing. Your truck is probably part time because it has lockouts with a np203. All np203 trucks were automatic or drive slugged trucks, and I believe when you put lockouts on it, it becomes part time. As far as your driveline, you might check your u joints carefully. Trevor

[idastang]

Hey Trevor, Thanks again for the info. The u-joints are fine. The movement I speak of is a the output yoke where the flange on the drive line bolts to. I can see the yoke itself move around. Other than a seal, is there a bearing or a bushing that needs replaced? Can the t/c be removed without pulling the th350 as well. I know I will need to support the trany, just not sure on the seperation process. I will need to research this. Just rebuilt the 327 and fired it up this evening and she sounds sweet. I had got this for a winter driver, but I think winter will be moving on by the time she hits the road Thanks again

[msgross]

before I put much money in the 203 i'd search for a good 205, but then your driveshafts probably won't fit due to length difference.

the 203 has a large chain inside that drives the front and the 205 is all gears...

[idastang]

Just an up-date on the rear shock issue. I spoke with Pro comp to determine what shocks to use. There advice was to raise the truck and let the axle hang, measure from bracket to bracket and they would be able to give me a part number for the correct shock. They will also need to to know the type of mount. So now once I find the time to raise and measure I will be able to order the shocks I need. Thought this info may be useful to someone down the road. Thanks again to all. I am sure I will have more questions as I go forward.