67 cheby's Dropmember build thread (CLOUD 9)

[67cheby]

"we will be driving these bad boys someday" .......EASY FOR YOU TO SAY YOU HAVE 6 MORE YEARS TO CATCH UP WITH ME .... you have only been on yours for a year right??? LOL, mine is the eternal project , MY NEW GOAL IS THE DARYL STARBIRD SHOW IN TULSA OK IN FEB 2011, we will see if i can miss that goal also !!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

"we will be driving these bad boys someday" .......EASY FOR YOU TO SAY YOU HAVE 6 MORE YEARS TO CATCH UP WITH ME .... you have only been on yours for a year right??? LOL, mine is the eternal project , MY NEW GOAL IS THE DARYL STARBIRD SHOW IN TULSA OK IN FEB 2011, we will see if i can miss that goal also !!

Rookie . . . ......


My Retro-Rod 67 has been APART for the frame off since 1992.

[67cheby]

OK, OK so SCOTI has me beat ,( but i have to be in the top 5 on this site ) by the way is there a build thread on the Retro-rod ??? and why arent you working on it ?? just asking

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

OK, OK so SCOTI has me beat ,( but i have to be in the top 5 on this site ) by the way is there a build thread on the Retro-rod ??? and why arent you working on it ?? just asking

The retro-Rod project was started when I was young & didn't have the skills/equipment to do the job. Multiple shops later I still did not have the ride height I wanted & things kept having to be done 'over'. So..... How does that saying go?? I started saving money to buy the equipment to do it myself. Then came marriage, moving, divorce, beer, moving, beer, moving, & life in general (bye, bye $$).

Eventually I had money in the bank again to accomplish my goals. I was going to Z the front frame when I came across an article on Mr.Porter. After talking to him multiple times, I got an early C4 Dropmember. I waited for his rear 4-bar DM but ultimately found it wouldn't let me run the wheel width I wanted. That's when I bought a frame to practice the rear frame Z & verify it's feasability.

That 'test' frame became the chassis for my 64 project 'Recycle'. Once the 64 is rolling, I'll be doing a rear T/A DM on my Retro-Rod & there will be a build thread (Nate started building the T/A rear kit after I was in the process of my Z).

Knowing I can do it either way, I'll use his set-up as ultimately I feel it will be a better performer because the bags/springs are farther apart on the chassis & I can move forward MUCH faster.

[67cheby]

so what your saying is .....no $ no $, then got distracted working on another one , no $ no $......oh well how about throwing up a couple pics of it anyway, i am assuming it is the one with the steel floor stepped up over the notch?? it looked pretty sweet im sure everyone would enjoy seeing your ETERNAL build...well it would make me feel better anyway !!LOL

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

so what your saying is .....no $ no $, then got distracted working on another one , no $ no $......oh well how about throwing up a couple pics of it anyway, i am assuming it is the one with the steel floor stepped up over the notch?? it looked pretty sweet im sure everyone would enjoy seeing your ETERNAL build...well it would make me feel better anyway !!LOL

That's it.

[lowdownstar]

if i was ever to catch up with you, my wife would of shot me by then! She is already ready to throw me out and my truck for it being two years so far...lol
You must have a good wife!!!! I am going to get my truck on the road next year i don't care if it's done i just want to drive it. I love to work on it but not being able to drive it sucks... I hope we are both able to meet our goals and you make it to your show!


Ray

[67cheby]

well here is a little information for those of you debating , sanding or blasting , my painter is letting me use his tools and shop to do all of the grunt work on my truck (he has the best of everything) i get very little free time between family and work so when i do get to work i make the best of it , no messing around just work non stop. What i am getting at is i have put in 12 hours stripping the outside of the cab , cab doorjambs, cowl, firewall, back of cab and outside of doors, this is a truck that had had only one repaint since the original paint, anyway if you are debating that will give you some info on how long it will take using awesome tools and an air compressor that never has to build up that will run nonstop!!!! the one i used to have an 80 gal one i would have to wait for it to build up after 15 min of sanding...it drove me crazy!!! anyway here are some pics from last night had alot of dust particles in the air so the pics are crappy , sorry

[kev2809]

so is that blasting or did you use something else?

[67cheby]

Sorry... that is 12 hours of Sanding !!! no blasting, im just trying to give other people a better idea of what kind of time frame it takes to strip one by sanding it

[VA72C10]

Looks great! Blasting would never get to that look either on the metal.

[67cheby]

i agree, i think doing it this way smooths everything out a lot better !!

[watahyahknow]

fhew sanding down to bare metal , lots of extra work you still need to use filler and sand that too and you still have a hard time getting too the rust in the nooks and crannies , i done it on some smaller projects like motorcycletanks , alltough it gives a better finish there is the chance that heat generated from the rubbing distorts the metal , i rather have it mediumblasted or dipped and sanded a little afterward

[67cheby]

to get in all of the tight places....door jambs and window openings, i used a 3 inch disc with about an inch thick spongy kind of sanding pad, i dont know what it is called but it works awesome , you can strip a spot and put your hand right on it ,it didnt heat up the metal, and it gets in every nook, you couldnt have gotten it any cleaner blasting it , but blasting would have been alot faster !!

[68 TT]

Sand blasting is fine for heavy gauge metal like the frame & suspension parts but body parts should be baking soda blasted. It is much less aggressive and leaves the surface much smoother plus it doesn't change the PH level of the metal like sand blasting does. Parts won't flash rust after baking soda blasting like they will with sand.

With baking soda you can even leave the glass and chrome on the vehicle and it won't harm them. It will take the paint off a chrome emblem without removing the chrome.

Great process and is well worth the money to have it done.

[67cheby]

i think having one dipped would be awesome but i hear it is outrageous to have it done

[superflysteiny]

Are you going to keep the stock latched on the doors of the truck or change them out. I would put the new latches in if I were you. Makes it much easier to get the doors to close smoothly. Stock chevy latches wear out fast and do need to be adjusted from time to time. Just my 2 cents. Project looks great keep up the good work.

[chapster]

Nice work,

It will be worth it in the end knowing what you are dealing with under the paint. No surprises after that.

[67cheby]

did you find NOS latches or did you use aftermarket ones ?? this is something i havent even thought about yet . any advice would be helpful, thanks. and as far as stripping goes,yes it will be good to know that there is nothing foreign going to be popping up from under the new paint !

[superflysteiny]

I would use bear claws. I used them on the 66 and they made the door close like a new car. I used them on my 1940 ford too. Reason I say this is I had so many issues with the stock latches on the 67. I wished I had put them on that truck. Hope it helps, if you need pics I can show you some from the 66

[superflysteiny]

oh you can get them from auto loc

[chapster]

Ya I was considering the bear claws also this time around. I just about ordered them with my windshield wiper motor kit from autoloc.

I will be watching for more info on these.

[67cheby]

yes, post some pics if you would

[ajgriffin]

I think we all want to see pics of anything that Superfly build, but in the mean time here is an install of the latches that Superfly is talking about that I saw elsewhere on the board (done on a 65 Burb).

Originally Posted by jephs422

FYI, all times are going to be PST for todays demonstration

Here you go.

Bear Claw latches are finished. These will give the door a solid shut and feel, as well as a safer functioning latch.

[67cheby]

that looks very clean, i am going to check into that