66 c10 rat

[Wolfy]

Just got a 66 c10 stepside. Pretty clean frame and bed. Going to do rat rod this year , maybe more over the winter. Already lowered 2.5 front and 4 rear. Needs more in the front. Not the most mechanical, ( I can build anything from wood) Need a cheap way to slam the front end. Any help would be appreciated. Wolfy

[jimmydean]

If it's already 2.5 in the front with a static drop, there aren't many "cheap" options, but it depends on what you consider cheap. I would go with drop spindles, but that requires converting the front to discs if it is still drums.

You could go with manual fill bags for about $200 for everything, that's pretty cheap.

[Slow Build]

How is your truck dropped front and rear now (spindles,springs,blocks)?

[Wolfy]

Have any idea where to purchase

[Wolfy]

2.5 and 4 in springs

[Wolfy]

Hey Rich, How much is your truck dropped?

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by Wolfy

Hey Rich, How much is your truck dropped?

It's dropped around 4" or 5" in front and around 6" in back. Unfortunately it been done with cut springs by PO. Going that low in front using all spring really reduces suspension travel and causes bump steer. Using lowered spindles gives you 2" more travel and brings the steering arms more parallel to the ground reducing bump steer. Drop spindles come in 2"-2.5" drops. Most will move your wheels out .75" per side unless you get modular spindles that only move them out about .25" per side. In the back you might consider lowering blocks if you decide to lower it more.

Here is some info on the blocks:
http://www.classicperform.com/goingdown6772.htm

[jocko]

you mentioned 2.5/4" drop - what means did the PO use to lower it? cut springs? Or do you perhaps already have drop spindles? Usually, if you have the 2.5 drop spindle, you should have around a 3" drop spring to go with it. Just curious the set-up (in the front) as you may be able to squeak an additional inch or so out of what you currently have before going into the $$$ setups for bags, etc (I agree with Jimmydean, not many inexpensive options left if you already have 2.5/4" setup. If you just have 2.5 drop springs without the spindles, then you may get that same additional inch or so by adding the drop spindles at this point.

As for the rear, again, depending on how the PO set the truck up - you may be able to add drop blocks (if there aren't any or replace with larger ones). But keep in mind - if you lower the rear any further, you're probably going to require a c-notch to keep the axle off the frame.

Again, all depends how it's currently set up. So,

Front: if you don't have drop spindles, recommed 2.5 or 3" spindles complemented by an appropriate coil spring. If you DO have drop spindles, then the most you'll get out of it is maybe another inch if you put in appropriate drop springs (or vice versa - i.e. if you don't have drop spindles and do have drop springs, adding the other component may help a little - but in most cases, folks don't add just one or the other, they add both the spindles and the drop springs, so if you have drop spindles, you probably also have drop springs. Not true if you just have drop springs - many add the springs without the spindles - so you can help out by adding the springs to match). But if you have both already, you're maxed out for that config I believe - next step=bags if you must go lower.

Rear: consider blocks if none there already. Because if it's dropped 4" already, next step will require frame notch, etc.

If $$$ are available, scrap it all and go with air susp. Several guys on here can be of more help with the air suspension than me. I like the way the AirRide "Strongarm" air suspension turned out on the "Trucks" tv series C10 rebuild. Looks like a quality setup to me - but strangely, I haven't seen many trucks on here that have used it. It includes a bolt-in c-notch, etc. If you're looking for HOW to do that install (or to get an idea what's involved in the set-up), I'd recommend the $19.95 Powerblock TV full series DVD (http://www.powerblockswag.com/Trucks...hevyc10dvd.htm) so you know what you're getting into. If you've already seen the shows, don't waste your money though - the compilation DVD is exactly what you've already seen on tv, just strung together without commercials - i.e. there's no "extra" stuff that wasn't on tv. But still, it's a very cool build and I enjoyed watching it the first time on tv, and subsequently on DVD.

There are many other options available and, like I said, others will probably be much more helpful than me in the air ride department. But first, to help you out, we need to know how your truck is currently lowered, not just how much.

Oh yeah, need some PICTURES!!!!!

[Wolfy]

Thanks for all the help. The truck is at my buddy house (he has a lift) Putting on new rockers , steps. I will get some pics up when I get it home latter this week. Still trying to figure out weather to put on white walls or not. Got a buddy that is working at dads tire shop, gives me really good deals. Front of hood is rough and door bottoms are too. Looking around here in ohio for parts. Not much luck yet. Truck has a 250 six in it. I really like six cylinders. Going to leave it and maybe do some cool performance stuff to it. The key word here is cheap. I am already having alot of fun with this thing. You dont see alot of 66 stepsides around here. Cool site, again thanks alot.

[lakeroadster]

I know what you mean about not seeing to many 60-66 trucks in Ohio. These trucks for the most part have rusted into their surroundings! When I moved from Ohio to Colorado a few years back the amount of old trucks available really opened my eyes.

I wanted to mention that from a safety perspective 1-1/2" rear lowering blocks are the most you can go with if your are running 15" wheels, due to scrub line issues. Otherwise if you get a flat rear tire the trucks lower shock bracket will be diggin into the pavement..... not a good thing.

If you want to go more than 1-1/2" then you need to increase wheel diameter.

So if you have 18" dia. wheels you could use 3" blocks, as follows:

18" dia. - 15" dia. = 3" diameter difference,
3" dia. / 2 = 1-1/2" radius difference,
1-1/2" increase in wheel radius + 1-1/2" blocks = 3" blocks

Post up some photos of your truck....

[Wolfy]

Thanks for the info. I bought a set of Summit racing Legend 6 wheels and found out when I tryed them the center hole was not big enough. Bummer. I really like these, and they are 17''. Glad I didnt buy tires yet. Not sure what to do now. Like I said before thought about white walls.

[Rich 5150 69]

Our trucks are lug centric, all the newer trucks are hub centric, to use newer style wheels you`ll have to convert to late model axles and brakes, if your tuck is 5 lug now you`ll have a wider choice for wheels, if your 6 lug you have limited options.

[Wolfy]

Thanks , I am finding that out. I will find something for it. I am trying to do this as cheaply as possible. Thanks Steve