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07-19-2011, 07:14 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 787
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Getting ready to remove cab floor Need Bracing Pics
Looking to get some pics posted of what others have done to brace the cabs when you've done a full floor replacement. Im looking to remove my cab from the chassis this weekend and hope to have all the braces in place first..
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07-19-2011, 07:26 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 198
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Re: Getting ready to remove cab floor Need Bracing Pics
I only have pictures of when I replaced individual floor pan's they did not have the full floors when I did mine but it might give you some ideas. just click on my build page below.
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In some foreign language "merge" means to stop and turn your head left. My build page http://67chev.shawwebspace.ca/ |
07-19-2011, 08:59 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 787
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Re: Getting ready to remove cab floor Need Bracing Pics
Wow that was a great photo albumn. You replaced all the floor panels I would have to. Once a saw my rear crossmember was as bad as it is I decided to axe the idea of trying to make 6 patches fit together and weld solid and opt for making one big one fit.
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07-19-2011, 11:51 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 198
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Re: Getting ready to remove cab floor Need Bracing Pics
That would have been my choice to if at the time they sold the entire floor. I had to patch a couple spots on the rear cross member and as you can see in the pictures I a had a pretty big hole to patch in the roof also lol
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In some foreign language "merge" means to stop and turn your head left. My build page http://67chev.shawwebspace.ca/ |
07-28-2011, 11:25 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 388
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Re: Getting ready to remove cab floor Need Bracing Pics
Not sure if this helps or not. I thought I had some better pictures, but can't seem to find them right now.
I made some plates that bolt-in at each door hinge mount, and a plate to replace the striker plate(correct term?) at the rear of the door where it latches. I connected the two hinge plates with a piece of square tube, and then triangulated two pieces of square tube from the hinge plates back to the striker plate. I did this on both sides. Then I bolted in x-bracing across the cab. The goal of my replacement was not to disturb any of the paint on the outside of the cab, and I didn't want to weld my bracing to the cab in any way, that's why I tried to make it all bolt-on. I'm not sure if I did it right, wrong, whatever. I think it worked out pretty good, although the cab is still sitting just like you see in the pics, only with a new floor, front cab corners, kick panels, and some small floor patches forward of the new floor I got. I haven't put the doors on yet, or had it back on the truck. But with the replacement floors built the way they are, I think if you can get it in there, and in the right spot, I don't see how you could have any issues. Hope this helps! |
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