Alternator question

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

The good thing is upgrading to a CS from an SI is far easier than going from externally regulated to SI anyway. The voltage regulator speed and overall heat disippation is far better. With regards to alternators, the newest style you can upgrade to the better!

Spot on

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I don't think you should be bummed out. The conversion to 12SI is much clearer than CS. There is not a clear description anywhere of exactly what to do. This thread is as close as I've seen, but the information about an application didn't appear until after you bought the 12SI. I have posted hundreds of threads on how to do it.

In order to be clear (for me), the instructions for CS conversion need to have:

• The alternator application. This is the required information that you walk into an auto parts store with, in order to get them to hand you the correct alternator across the counter. Without that, our only choice is to buy generic Chinese crud from Amazon or eBay, and we may not use a Delco/Remy. Until vince1 spoke up with "89 Pontiac Safari is a CS130 that has the V pulley" I don't think anybody had previously given an application.
  I always say to use any of the early nineties GM trucks or the full size cars.
  
  gmachinz has now also given another application for what appears to be the same alternator vince1 mentions, except the pully style. It is good to have a list of applications to choose from, like we have had for a while for the 12SI, by looking at the Mad Electrical website.
• Part number and source for a suitable junction. I've decided to use the stock junction like the one on the passenger fender, and I will put it on the driver side fender for the alternator output. You've also found a nice junction.
• Part number and source or application for the alternator connector, and clear information about the resistor for the L terminal, including part number and source or application. I've been researching this and I think perhaps ACDelco PT2145 is the correct one, it is an SI to CS130 adapter with resistor built in. There is no more Radio Shack to walk into and pick up a resistor, and even if you pick one up from somewhere, you still need the connector. So I am kind of liking that ACDelco PT2145 as a choice. With an ACDelco part number, it should be possible to get it from many sources.
• The wiring diagram. I have added to the "Color Wiring Diagram FINISHED" post in this electrical section, I hope I got it right. If anybody points out errors, I will edit it.
  
  There is an error on the wiper motor wiring where the yellow power wire is connected direct;y to one of the grounding wires from the wiper speed switch. I'll post pictures of it.
  
  

Fortunately, it is not a very expensive project to experiment with, perhaps a couple hundred dollars for everything including a fresh Gates belt.

Originally Posted by gmachinz

I’ve used that alternator for countless 67-72 GM A-body alternator upgrade kits (Chevelle, Monte carlo, Cutlass) and along with my upgraded and re-routed system wiring, I can measure 14.5V @ output post with car running and 14.4V @ an interior stock fuse panel BAT terminal with car running while having:

AC on high speed
Headlights on
Aftermarket stereo with multiple amps hitting hard
Running the power windows up/down
Interior courtesy lighting on

I’ve proven over and over with those alternators that when properly supported in key areas using upgraded wiring, voltage loss is extremely minimal and amperage use is fairly low which is exactly as it should be. Part of my work was to also dispell the myth that people should always upgrade to the latest fuse panel blah blah blah that AAW and PAINLESS always try to push.

Originally Posted by gmachinz

The “L” still needs to go to your light circuit but I would still add a 150-200 ohm/1W resistor inline on it. The bigger red wire is still the voltage sensing lead too, then you have the big charge post cable to run.

Worrying about finding a CS alternator with a V-belt pulley is useless, when it only takes a minute to change the serpentine pulley to the V-belt pulley.

All you need is a glove or rag, a 15/16" socket and an impact gun to zip it off and zip the V-belt pulley on. If yiou don't have an impact then the alternator armature has a socket for an allen driver to hold it while turning the nut with an open end wrench.




Here's the wiper error and the correction.


ERROR:





Wiper correction:

[Travisarmenta]

[QUOTE=VetteVet;8271526]Spot on




I'm pretty sure i understand the process minus the swapping the alternator from driver to passenger side.

is this a must? and if so why?

[dave`12]

[quote=Travisarmenta;8308596]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Spot on




I'm pretty sure i understand the process minus the swapping the alternator from driver to passenger side.

is this a must? and if so why?

The only difference would be wire length

If it's set up to work (brackets, etc.) no reason to move it in the least.

[Travisarmenta]

[quote=dave`12;8310066]

Originally Posted by Travisarmenta

The only difference would be wire length

If it's set up to work (brackets, etc.) no reason to move it in the least.

Thanks for the reply.

[halfstep]

Driller - what about a photo of your shiny new CS 130 installation for us readers?!