2004 Silverado A/C - Bad Switch or Low Freon?

[LBJ]

For 14.5 years the A/C has worked almost perfect on the 04 Silverado Ext Cab 5.3 Vortec. It was working fine a month ago, but the other day, I turned it on and ZERO cool air. The fan blows and the compressor clicks on, but no cool air. What is the easiest way to determine the problem? Is it the low pressure sensing switch or just low on freon? I have a set of freon gauges/lines I've had since my 1977 was my main ride, but not sure where to hook them up on this "new" truck. Thanks for any tips. LBJ

[hatzie]

If the compressor is kicking on it's not the LPCO switch.

I assume you looked at the compressor to be sure the clutch is engaging the hub when it clicks. Not in an easy location to see from the top with that compressor buried down next to the frame and oil pan but you should be able to look up from underneath.

I'd hook up a set of manifold gauges and see what's what. Your 1977 R12 gauge set with threaded fitting hoses will not have the quick disconnect fittings for R134a.

You can use R12 manifold gauge hose to R134 service port adapters.

[LBJ]

Thanks Hatzie, good information. I need to go get some R134a adapters for my old gauges.

Had a friend look at the clutch while I engaged it from inside the cab. He said it was engaging and wasn't making any noises. But, the little yellow light on the A/C power pushbutton would go off as soon as I pushed it, which it never does when working correctly. It finally came on and stayed on, but no cool air.

I'll look thru those service manuals to see where the 2004 hi and low pressure connections are.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by LBJ

Thanks Hatzie, good information. I need to go get some R134a adapters for my old gauges.

Had a friend look at the clutch while I engaged it from inside the cab. He said it was engaging and wasn't making any noises. But, the little yellow light on the A/C power pushbutton would go off as soon as I pushed it, which it never does when working correctly. It finally came on and stayed on, but no cool air.

I'll look thru those service manuals to see where the 2004 hi and low pressure connections are.

I don't have any T800 service manuals scanned.

The R134a High and low service ports are easy to find and you can't mix them up.

[LBJ]

I'm looking at YouTube for some visual instructions. Should get me going. Thanks, LBJ

[homemade87]

I am going to throw this out there just in case .

One thing that is bad to give problems is the actuators that control the blend door . It will not control the door proper and will introduce heat from core and feel like the a/c is not working . Being the compressor is working this may be a realistic problem .

[LBJ]

Hi homemade87, I just replaced one Heat/AC door actuator last year and that fixed that. So, hope it's not another one that's bad. Ha. Thanks, LBJ

[LBJ]

I ran the A/C system the other day and felt the aluminum lines to see if it was getting cold. The air temp was about 55 Deg F so they were cool, but not COLD. I also checked the air vents to see if the air changed from cold to hot when changing the temp levers. They appeared to work as normal - full cold to full hot to full cold. So, the actuators all seem to be working fine. Since my A/C charging manifold is way out of date with current refrigerants, I'll borrow a set from a friend to check pressures, or buy a new set. No use messing with all the adapters. Still a few months before HOT temps around here, so, no hurry on getting it figured out. LBJ

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by LBJ

I ran the A/C system the other day and felt the aluminum lines to see if it was getting cold. The air temp was about 55 Deg F so they were cool, but not COLD. I also checked the air vents to see if the air changed from cold to hot when changing the temp levers. They appeared to work as normal - full cold to full hot to full cold. So, the actuators all seem to be working fine. Since my A/C charging manifold is way out of date with current refrigerants, I'll borrow a set from a friend to check pressures, or buy a new set. No use messing with all the adapters. Still a few months before HOT temps around here, so, no hurry on getting it figured out. LBJ

Good deal , sounds like you are getting a direction to go to getting it figured out . Let us know what you find .

[hatzie]

If you figure it's low on refrigerant and the compressor is kicking on you need to be prepared to replace the LPCO switch.
I would also disable the compressor til you get it sorted so you don't burn it up.

[LBJ]

OK, thanks guys, I'll keep you posted. By the way, I might as well just buy the R134a adapters for my manifold set as I have forgotten I had the 77 Chevy changed over to R134a 5 years ago! I'm getting old, it appears. Ha. LBJ

[hatzie]

If your older gauges and valves are better quality than you can buy now just get a set of R134a Hi & Low hoses to fit the manifold.

You can get can taps that fit the R12 charge hose.

[LBJ]

Hi Hatzie, I pulled out my manifold gauge set from the late 70's. Manufacturer is Continental Precision Instruments in Ft Lauderdale FL. The only stamping on the manifold is "A49." They were top drawer as I recall and still appear to be in fine shape. My question is, are the gauges going to be OK for use with R134A with the proper adapter hoses?

[hatzie]

Those look like decent gauges. If those gauges are working I would just change the hoses over.

Check your gauge manifold valves for leaks.

[LBJ]

Hatzie, without buying the new adapter hoses first, what is an easy method to test the rig for leaks?

[hatzie]

You can fix leaking valves without much trouble. Usually they're just fine.

Get some brass fittings and hook the manifold to your shop air at 60 psi or so.

[LBJ]

Update to the A/C story. Thru an unexpected "find" of a good A/C guy I lost track of several years ago, I was able to get him to look at the 2004 Chevy. He's a professional mechanic with the full 134a capture and replenishment freon machine. First, he tried to pull a vacuum and didn't get anything with that attempt. Next, he said he was going to put some 134a into the system to try to get a reading. That attempt failed also, Not sure what he did next, but he tried something different with adding the 134a. In the process, we both heard a "pop" in the line next to the drier and then the system took a full 1.6 pounds of 134a. He started the engine and tested the A/C. It worked! He said he could only guess there was something in the lines that popped loose. Might work well for a long time or blow out tomorrow. Hard to tell, but said I could run it and see what happens. For $50, that was a cheap fix. He said if the compressor was bad or goes out, the whole replacement would be about $850 which includes a new condenser and drier. That's $500 less than the Chevy dealer quoted on a worst case, compressor out, situation. While I was at it, I went back home, got the 77 Bonanza and had him refill the 134a in that one. Worked fine. Not bad for a 42 year old truck A/C system. That was $99. Took about an hour to completely vacuum the system and refill. I had him replace the Schrader valves while he was at it, just in case they were bad. So, back in business on both trucks. Thanks for all the suggestions and help, all you guys! LBJ

[sleepertruck72]

The low side service port (Schrader valve) is a very common leak area on these trucks. If your A/C starts blowing warm again spray some soapy water on the low side service port...if it bubbles it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace both high and low side fittings

[truckdude239]

Originally Posted by sleepertruck72

The low side service port (Schrader valve) is a very common leak area on these trucks. If your A/C starts blowing warm again spray some soapy water on the low side service port...if it bubbles it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace both high and low side fittings

I see the highside leaking more then the low sides on these trucks the high side uses a hars rubber ball to seal i found out the replacments leak worst then the old ones so i fou d there is a r12 to r134 vavle that screws right in place on the new trucks and uses a scader vavle i stead of the rubber ball to seal