Explorer rear's, What did you use for wheel size/backspace? Pictures of your truck?

[dsraven]

the ford 8.8 is a strong axle, as said above. the center section is offset, though, which can affect the placement of other things under the truck in that area, exhaust, shocks, stabilizer bar, fuel tank etc. some guys have used a short axle on both sides and simply shortened the long axle tube. axles get used to being torqued one direction so maybe a new axle for that side would be a good idea if introducing a high torque engine to your driveline. a mid '90's mustang has an 8.8 axle with a cemtered middle section. as stated they have a rear disc wiyh a drum style park brake inside that so easy to hook up a strong park brake set up.

ok, back to the question. does a ford 8.8 fit under an AD truck. well, there are some variables we need to know first. are you talking about a stock fendered, stock bed floor kinda truck? what width tire will you plan to run and what wheel do you plan to use? the ford explorer has a 5 bolt wheel pattern so if you stick with a 5 bolt wheel you can use the ford wheels or redrill a 5 bolt pattern beteen the ford pattern. it's easily done with simply making your own pattern from an old ford explorer rear disc flange. drill the pilot holes in the old disc flange where they need to be then mount that up and mark the holes on the axle flange, remove the disc and drill the holes for th new studs.
what I would suggest is to do a cross section style drawing of the area you have to work with on some graph paper, just because it is easy with the lines already square to each other. draw the frame rails at their widest points, then the box width at it widest point on the walls of the box, draw the fender's wheel openings at their narrowest points inside the openings where they curl under and a tire would rub, this drawing will show you what you have for available tire width without rubbing, allow some wiggle room to allow for axle side to side motion due to suspenion component wear etc. now you can draw in the explorer axle dimensions, or whatever other axle you choose, and see if it will fit or if you will need some special offset wheels etc.
do you have a plan for suspension? stock? 4 link? something else? remember the AD truck rear axle that was leaf springs doesn't locate the axle with a spring center bolt like newer style suspensions do. that is because of the torque tube suspension geometry and engineering. there are kits to fix that though.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Robert Andrew

I have the same question. You received a bunch of responses, but none answered your question. I always wonder why people respond with off the subject responses.

Surely there is one person who can read and comprehend your post and answer the question. I know, from other posts, that a bunch of guys have used the Explorer rearend.

Can someone give us a succinct answer?

Robert check the last post above yours, it was from 2012.

In answer to your questions, I'd say that many do not take the time to read all the way though the question and are in too big of a hurry to get an answer up. Some are like that relative who always goes off on their own story when they hear or see a trigger word. They see or hear the word and their brain kicks into the thing it triggers rather than a viable answer.

Sometimes the original poster isn't clear, concise and complete with their question. Vague questions get off the wall answers.

Some like in this case whoever Chevette used to be just wanting to voice an off the wall and uninformed and maybe off the wall opinion. In this case the Explorer rear end actually being one of the stronger light vehicle rear ends out there. I've got one under my 92 Ranger and that thing is stout. I'm no doubt guilty of voicing opinions where they aren't well received on some things guys choose to do on AD trucks that I don't view as appropriate.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by Robert Andrew

I have the same question. You received a bunch of responses, but none answered your question. I always wonder why people respond with off the subject responses.

Surely there is one person who can read and comprehend your post and answer the question. I know, from other posts, that a bunch of guys have used the Explorer rearend.

Can someone give us a succinct answer?

As pointed out, this post was started 9 years ago. The OP hasn't been here in three years, likely his question was answered. If you have a question, it's best to start a new thread. Give specifics for your particular build, rather than drag up and old thread, and throw barbs out there. If this thread continues, then please keep to the original theme, otherwise it will be closed.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Robert Andrew

I have the same question. You received a bunch of responses, but none answered your question. I always wonder why people respond with off the subject responses.

Surely there is one person who can read and comprehend your post and answer the question. I know, from other posts, that a bunch of guys have used the Explorer rearend.

Can someone give us a succinct answer?

The Explorer rear ends are 59.625 from mounting surface to mounting surface. Do some measuring on your truck to determine what will work best for you.

My truck isn't super low ( running boards are 9" off the ground) so I can fit 20x8.5" wheels (4.75 back space). I also have custom made 1" spacers that change from Ford to Chevy bolt pattern. This gives me 1/2" gap from the tire to the bed side and 1/2" gap to the fender.

Basically, it's best to measure and not rely on what others have done since the ride height can vary so much.

I hope that's sufficient.

[dsraven]

do a drawing/sketch like this, maybe on graph paper for a little better squareness, and those numbers will tell you exactly what you have for room. go to a tire size chart and see what your tire dimensions are and factor that in. leave some room for axle movement side to side so the tires wont rub on corners etc. ensure your chosen rear suspension doesn't move too much side to side and if so factor that in, when you get it all figured out you will know what your wheel offset can be. check if it is to your liking for wheel dish etc and change what you need to to make it work. some axle suppliers used to sell axles with no wheel bolt holes drilled. something to think about if that interests you
sorry for the sideways pic. I can't seem to make it come out right way up. I'll have to go through ricky's picture post again.
if you want a deeper dish wheel, a centered pumkin and a ford 8.8 try looking at a mid 90's mustang, 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle, 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle
here are a few links for info in case anybody else brings up the old post

https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/rear-e...american-cars/

https://www.quickperformance.com/Sus...nts_ep_44.html

http://carnut.com/specs/rear.html

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...l_measurements

an article on the ford 8.8 and where to scrounge one up

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ford-rear-axle/

an article or 2 from the ranger station on the 8.8

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ory-and-specs/

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...lorer8_8.shtml

an article on narrowing how to 8.8

https://thefabricatorseries.com/buil...prelude-and-qa

rebuild for power etc. 8.8

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/16...d-8-inch-axle/

axle bearing upgrade and c clip eliminator for those who feel the need

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-11...nator-kit.html

chevy 12 bolt vs ford 9 or 8.8-info from ls1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-8-8-inch.html

tire size comparison chart

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

engine rpm calculator for axle ratio, tire size, trans choice

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/...rpm-calculator

that ought to keep somebody busy reading and thinking. hopefully it helps somebody lurking. maybe a good idea to have a thread dedicated to axle swaps and include the links for different axles, track widths of the stock trucks here and the options for donor axles. it seems most guys upgrade for added power or for highway gearing and more easily accessed parts, brakes etc. some good info for anybody looking at an 8.8 axle upgrade. they say they are as strong as a 12 bolt. I know a guy who ran a heavily modified big power 5.3 in a mustang with a stock 8.8 and the only thing he did to the axle was install a diff cover with the bolts to tighten down against the carrier bearing caps.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

As pointed out, this post was started 9 years ago. The OP hasn't been here in three years, likely his question was answered. If you have a question, it's best to start a new thread. Give specifics for your particular build, rather than drag up and old thread, and throw barbs out there. If this thread continues, then please keep to the original theme, otherwise it will be closed.

I wish all forums were setup so that after a reasonable period of time only the OP could reopen the thread.

You don't see it much here but on the HAMB there is always some guy who found a ten or more year dead thread on google and joins the forum to expound his "expertise",

The biggest problem with opening someone's long dead thread is that few actually see your post unless they recognize the thread and scroll to the last post and work back until they see the recent ones. I'd far rather answer someone's new post on their own thread 20 times than see a bunch of guys answer a 15 year old thread started by an OP who hasn't been on the board for years and miss the question of the guy who found the thread and needed an answer. We might refer you to an old thead that has a bunch of correct answers but that is our way of answering the question with good answers.


Still on the wheel/tire Axle width thing. You either fit the wheel and tire combo to the axle width and the truck or you fit the axle (and maybe the truck) to your wheel and tire choice.

As far as the 8.8 width this Ranger station forum page tells a bunch

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...lorer8_8.shtml
Lots of info there.


59-1/2 inches for the Explorer. That is still going to require negative offset wheels (reverse) to clear the bedsides without some sort of tubs.

I'd have to go out and measure the offset on my Enkie 32's but that offset with 255-60-15 tires won't clear.

[Dan in Pasadena]

My truck has a Ford 8.8 with 3.73's, limited slip and disc brakes....but I didn't install it so can't help with dimensions.

I had the flanges re-drilled to 5x4.75 Chevy lug pattern. I had to use a 1/4" spacer in rear so the inside tire sidewalls don't rub against the bed sides. And these are only 235/55x17 tires.

[mr48chev]

Those wheels have the offset you need to work. That is one great looking truck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Those wheels have the offset you need to work. That is one great looking truck.

Thanks so much for the kind words. I LOVE my truck. Unfortunately, I love it so much I don't drive it that much because I'm afraid to park it anywhere I can't see it when I'm out of it. They're SO easy to steal.

Plus I need to work on a few things to finish it and because I don't because when I don't drive it, I don't notice these things. A vicious cycle I need to break.

[mr48chev]

Can't blame you for not wanting to leave it sitting where you can't see it in that area.

Simple electrical and fuel cutoffs Will stop the joy riders but may not stop the pro thieves.

I don't like the laying frame thing at all but the guys who can lay on the ground and then dump the air in the tanks and pull the breaker for the air pump may have the right idea.

[BAM55]

The 1991-2003 Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch rearend is about 59.5 inches wide mounting point to mounting point. The center is offset to a passenger side. This is will not affect pinion angle and or ride. If you want to run deep dished wheels or you need a narrower rearend this is easily done on this rearend by cuttting out 2.875 inches of the driver side and install another passenger side axle which is what I did. I'm running 20x12 with a 4.5 backspace.

[_Ogre]

boy oh boy, that's a name i haven't seen forever

[mr48chev]

With a 50 inch inside width plus the thickness of the sheet metal so lets say 50.25 for a tiny bit of clearance and a 59.5 axle width you are looking at an honest 4 inches of clearance between WMS to WMS and the outside of the bed. I say honest because we all know that not all Chevy truck beds are made the same. Simply meaning that you have four inches of space from the mounting surface on the wheel until the sidewall of the tire hits the bed side.